How would you recommend I do that?You need to address the macro nutrients first if you're running CO2 with higher light levels.
Hmm.. What about the fish, though? How can you be sure those levels aren't hard on them?I've been playing around with a drop checker and had to run it far, far into the yellow to get my tank "happy".
Drop checkers can easily be set to be green at whatever co2 level you desire. Adjusting the KH of the the water inside them is how. I usually run my tanks at about 40ppm and have had healthy fish and thriving shrimp populations.Hmm.. What about the fish, though? How can you be sure those levels aren't hard on them?
Off.I run an airstone for 5 hours at night, but during the day..
Why not do both simultaneously?Would I start adding the nitrogen, etc. before upping the CO2?
Don't use the controller. Bring the pH down a bit. Either way will work.Also, I have it set-up so that the C02 turns on or off depending on the pH. The CO2 is on till it gets to a pH of 6.8, then shuts off.
So if it get's to set point, even if the level is still "green" there's no way to get more C02 pumped in..
Don't know how I could get around that..
Quite the opposite. You are getting these problems because your macros are much, much too low. Remember, you're not running a reef here. Your micro nutrients are low as well. Half a cap full of Flourish? That's what, 2.5mls? You really need something in the neighborhood of 10-20mls per day of both Flourish and Flourish Iron; much of that depends on what kinds of plants you're growing. Throwing in tiny amounts every couple days isn't going to cut it.I'll check out the EI dosing, but aren't I in this mess because there is too much nutrients in the water already??
Even with the 3" of Eco-Complete and 1" of pure powdered laterite under that?You need to feed your plants with good fertilizer
That's why I said it varies widely, just wanted to throw a ballpark figure...Well, I don't go by bps..
What I should have said is i CAN'T go by bps..just wanted to throw a ballpark figure
It's beneficial to get to the desired concentration of CO2 quickly so that you're covered for the entire photoperiod. It's also a good idea to set your bubble rate such that the CO2 controller doesn't cycle on and off too frequently. One an hour is probably more than enough. A high CO2 rate will result in drastic back-and-forth pH swings that will wear out the solenoid faster. It also doesn't leave you with a margin of safety if the solenoid happens to get stuck in the "on" position. Mine did this and killed a few fish.I should probably cut the bps down with the needle valve, so it stays on longer, or does it matter how fast or slow you get to a certain ppm?
One what?It's beneficial to get to the desired concentration of CO2 quickly so that you're covered for the entire photoperiod. It's also a good idea to set your bubble rate such that the CO2 controller doesn't cycle on and off too frequently. One an hour is probably more than enough. A high CO2 rate will result in drastic back-and-forth pH swings that will wear out the solenoid faster