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The number one issue with that sort of algae is almost always CO2. I've been playing around with a drop checker and had to run it far, far into the yellow to get my tank "happy". I'm not really sold on them as a great way to check the levels. Watching the plants and aiming for pearling (if your light is intense enough) is the best method IMO.

Flouish is a good trace element source, but you're not getting any Nitrogen, Phosphorus, or Potassium with that. You need to address the macro nutrients first if you're running CO2 with higher light levels.

Nice loach, BTW. ;)
 

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I should probably cut the bps down with the needle valve, so it stays on longer, or does it matter how fast or slow you get to a certain ppm?
It's beneficial to get to the desired concentration of CO2 quickly so that you're covered for the entire photoperiod. It's also a good idea to set your bubble rate such that the CO2 controller doesn't cycle on and off too frequently. One an hour is probably more than enough. A high CO2 rate will result in drastic back-and-forth pH swings that will wear out the solenoid faster. It also doesn't leave you with a margin of safety if the solenoid happens to get stuck in the "on" position. Mine did this and killed a few fish.
 

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For comparison my controller ranges from 5.65 to 5.85 which in reality keeps pH from 5.65 to 5.75. Go slow, watch the fish. Take them to some mild stress (rapid gill movements, lethargy) and then back off about 0.1 units. I'm raising West African chiclid fry in this tank with no trouble at all.
 

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It seems to me that pearling isn't always possible, but if you get it, it's universally a sign that things are happy. I'd try going a tenth or two lower with your pH. Go slow. Be careful. Once you have enough the appearance of the plants will astonish you.

Once it's happy (the tank - and by extension you!) consistency is key. Problems arise when you get lazy. Let the controller get out of calibration, run out of CO2, or forget to dose for a couple of weeks and you'll get a perfectly nice mess in no time.
 

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SAE's might help but they're overrated. Drop checkers are good, but they're also overrated. A lesson that I've needed to re-learn many, many times is that you need to watch the fish & plants. Pearling = good. Algae formation = bad. When you go from good to bad it's usually a CO2 problem. After that, it might be overstocking, underfertilizing, mad mathematics, blind following of innacurate test kits, or some other evil. For me it's been a CO2 issue nine times out of ten.
 

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When very, very hungry they'll eat BBA algae. When either fish food or Rotala wallachi are available they'll eat that instead. I dunno - I've had them on and off for years now and I'm not convinced they've been the answer to any of my alage problems. YMMV.
 

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The preferred term would be "thread hijacking". ;) When possible, it's usually best to start a new thread in this instance. The person asking the question will be much more likely to get the responses they're looking for. :)
 
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