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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
He means one on/off cycle per hour.
Ahh..

So what should I do while I'm waiting for the ferts?

Manual removal would be pointless, no?

Keep doing weekly water changes?

Less light?

Thoughts?
 

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As stated, you can manually remove the infected leaves and start using more Flourish while you wait on your ferts to arrive. Manual removal is an important step because you may see an increase in algae growth if you do not remove it. Lack of nutrients is what brought on the algae but by adding them you will reduce or eliminate the algae from returning.

You are also running almost 3wpg of T-5 lighting on your tank. This is a good deal of light for someone that fertilizes regularly but up to this point you have barely been fertilizing. I would suggest turning off one of the lighting units until your ferts arrive. 2x54w is more than adequate for a 75g and by your plant list, you don't have very many plants in the tank.

If you dropped your pH down to 6.5 and were still in the green on the drop checker and did not experience any fish stress, I would drop it even further. Don't let the pH number bother you, it is just a number. The fish don't seem to mind the drop in pH when using CO2 unless you go too low and stress them.

Do you know the set points on the PinPoint controller...i.e. when the pH hits it desired spot, how much does it rise again before the controller turns the CO2 back on. It's been a long time since I used a controller but if I remember correctly, it is set to a 0.2 rise in pH before the controller kicks the CO2 back on. Unlike the Milwaukee Controller I think you can adjust this point on the PinPoint Controller but like I said it has been a long time since I used a controller. If it is a 0.2 set point I would adjust the controller to drop the CO2 0.2 points below where you want it to be. So, if you decide you want your pH at 6.5, set the controller a bit lower, say 6.3. That way the controller will kick back on when your pH hits your set point (6.5) rather than going 0.2 points above it. I'd prefer to have a bit more CO2 in the water (as long as it doesn't stress the fish) than not enough. Just make sure when you do this for the first time that you are around to observe your fish for signs of stress like gasping at the surface for O2.
 

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As stated, you can manually remove the infected leaves and start using more Flourish while you wait on your ferts to arrive. Manual removal is an important step because you may see an increase in algae growth if you do not remove it. Lack of nutrients is what brought on the algae but by adding them you will reduce or eliminate the algae from returning.
Absolutely. The more that is there, the faster it can and will spread. I failed to remove one leaf and shortly after I had a serious issue. But after a treatment of excel and increased flourish, seems to have slowed that down and caused my plants to go bananas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
It can't really take that long for the ferts to get to you, can it?
Depends.. WAS going to get it from Green Leaf Aquariums, but they won't ship ferts to Canada.

The owner knows a guy in BC that may be able to help me, though..

So hopefully I'll get them soon..

Absolutely. The more that is there, the faster it can and will spread.
Ok, I'll start trimming, and go to one light for now..

I don't know about "not many plants", though:



What about the slow growing Anubias? Won't I damage it by removing too many leaves?

Can I cut the tips off the tennelus without killing it?

I would drop it even further
Why's that?

Do you know the set points on the PinPoint controller.
There is a .4-.6 pH variance (6.6 to 7.0-7.2) between the time the CO2 shuts off at night, and the air stone turns off in the early morning.

But as far as the set point on the controller goes, LOW is set at 6.5, HIGH is set at 6.7.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hmm..

My API GH test seemed to work, turned colour after 11 drops..

But my KH test went yellow right away..

So either I have a KH of zero, or my kit is buggered..

Will have to get another one..

So what should I do with the tennelus?

I cut away the tips of some infested leaves a few weeks ago, and now those leaves are yellowish red instead of green.. :(
 

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You probably have a very low kH. Mine is less than 1 degree too. My 20g Shrimp tank has a low kH...my pH regularly drops to ~5.8 from CO2 addition using DIY...the most I've ever seen with my Red Sea CO2 kit is 18ppm. I don't have a drop checker yet. I don't run an airstone at night, either.

There's an Oto and several snails in there too. The only adverse effect I see atrophy/pitting on one of my nerites and that's been there since I got it. I tossed an old apple snail shell in there and it has been disintegrating slowly.

With your kH and your pH setting at 6.5, I would guess you aren't even maintaining 15ppm of CO2.
 

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It does look likeyou have a good amount of plants though it didn't seem that way from the list you provided earlier ;) I think the problem lies in the lack of fertilization so far and possibly not enough CO2 dissolved in your water.

Why's that?
While your drop checker is in the green it is possibly that you still may not have enough CO2 in the water...I would add more CO2. As long as you don't stress the fish, it is safe to continue to raise the CO2 level in the tank.

But as far as the set point on the controller goes, LOW is set at 6.5, HIGH is set at 6.7.
Going strictly from the KH/pH chart, if you have a KH of 3 dKH, a pH of 6.5 will give you around 28ppm of CO2 which would be good. However, at 3dKH a pH of 6.7 will only be 18ppm which is low. That is a pretty big swing in CO2 levels even though the pH only drops by 0.2. This is why I suggested setting your controller a bit lower. If your KH is 2dKH, a pH of 6.5 would give you 19ppm of CO2 and when the controller kicks back on at 6.7 you would only have 12ppm of CO2. Both of those numbers are pretty low.

However, the KH/pH chart is usually off and makes you think you have more CO2 in the tank than you really do. In my case, I have had over 200ppm of CO2 in my tank going from the KH/pH chart and was still able to increase my CO2 level without causing stress to my fish...Rummy Nose and Peruvian Altums were fine and the Rams and Apistos bred at this hypothetically high CO2 level. Try not to let the pH number get to you, it is only a number. As long as the fish are not at the surface gasping for air, they should be fine.
 

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For comparison my controller ranges from 5.65 to 5.85 which in reality keeps pH from 5.65 to 5.75. Go slow, watch the fish. Take them to some mild stress (rapid gill movements, lethargy) and then back off about 0.1 units. I'm raising West African chiclid fry in this tank with no trouble at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok, I have my ferts, and am dosing as follows:


60 – 80 Gallon Aquariums

¾ tsp KN03
¼ tsp KH2P04 Mon, Wed, Fri
¼ tsp K2SO4

¼ tsp (20ml) Trace Elements Tues, Thurs, Saturday

Sunday 50% weekly water change



Let me know what you think..

I also brought down the set point on my controller to 6.4, and I've installed another diffuser on the opposite side of the tank..

Seeing pearling finally on the riccia, so I must be heading in the right direction, CO2-wise..

Did a bid weeding of the tennelus.. Got rid of alot of affected leaves that way.

Going to get a pair of SAE as well.

Will look at removing more leaves from the A. reinekii and A. barteri tomorrow.

Thanks for all the feedback!!!
 

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It seems to me that pearling isn't always possible, but if you get it, it's universally a sign that things are happy. I'd try going a tenth or two lower with your pH. Go slow. Be careful. Once you have enough the appearance of the plants will astonish you.

Once it's happy (the tank - and by extension you!) consistency is key. Problems arise when you get lazy. Let the controller get out of calibration, run out of CO2, or forget to dose for a couple of weeks and you'll get a perfectly nice mess in no time.
 

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Riccia is a fairly good light/CO2 indicator...it should start pearling an hour or two after lights on if both are good. It sounds like you are well on your way to a happy tank. Keep us updated on the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
As soon as my Excel shows up I'll start spot treating the anubias, and after another WC I'll bring the pH down another notch, and get my drop checker set-up right.

Hopefully they have some true SAE at the lfs in PG..
 

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SAE's might help but they're overrated. Drop checkers are good, but they're also overrated. A lesson that I've needed to re-learn many, many times is that you need to watch the fish & plants. Pearling = good. Algae formation = bad. When you go from good to bad it's usually a CO2 problem. After that, it might be overstocking, underfertilizing, mad mathematics, blind following of innacurate test kits, or some other evil. For me it's been a CO2 issue nine times out of ten.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
SAE's might help but they're overrated
In what way?

I'd prefer not to get them, as they get too big, and don't go after the algae that much when they do, but if it will help keep the algae in check, with the addition of all the other steps I'm taking, then...
 

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When very, very hungry they'll eat BBA algae. When either fish food or Rotala wallachi are available they'll eat that instead. I dunno - I've had them on and off for years now and I'm not convinced they've been the answer to any of my alage problems. YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Hmmm..

One way to find out, I guess.. LOL

Hope they like staghorn and GTA.. :)
 
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