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I agree with Bryce on the SAEs. I've had them and unless you keep them starving (hard to do if you have other fish in the tank) they will eat fish food, and other fine leaved plants including mosses over the BBA. They can be hard to remove from a planted tank too. I had to "de-plant" my 30g tank years ago just to catch them. IMO it is not worth the hassle and expense to get them.

Ditto Bryce's other comment...when I get algae in my tanks 90% of the time it is something I have done or not kept an eye on, mainly my CO2.

Once you start dosing your Staghorn should go away. The GTA (I assume Green Thread Algae) is easy enough to remove manually with a toothbrush. Just twirl the toothbrush in it like you would a fork in spaghetti. It can come back quickly but given a week or so of good dosing, CO2 levels and manual removal you should be able to get rid of it. Persistance is the key with Thread Algae.

Be careful with the Excel dosing...it can wipe out Riccia and other liverworts and some other plants like Valisneria species and Downoi. I've had good luck with vals when dosing at the recommended levels but they die off when I overdose. You should be OK with spot treating the Anubias but it may be just as easy to remove the Anubias and OD it outside of the tank ;)
 

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I had the same experience as Bryce and MatPat with SAE's. I used a fish-trap made of ols water bottles to catch them finally. One of them never did get fooled into the trap, though, and since I like the way they look, I let him stay. He does browse on my mosses, but by himself he doesn't do too much damage.

I also used Black Mollies to eat algae. They ate every kind of algae in my tank, including some white fungusy looking crud on my driftwood. The problem with them is that they CRAP EVERYWHERE, NONSTOP! Sometimes I'd have to go in twice a day with a small paintbrush and brush their turds off my mosses and plants where water flow was slower. They are no longer a part of my 'fauna'. ;)

Keep your ferts up, your CO2 in check, and your water quality high. Use fish if you have to for clean-up, but don't depend on them.

-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
it may be just as easy to remove the Anubias and OD it outside of the tank
Hmm.. There's an idea!

How much should I dilute the Excel? Or should I just use full strength?

How long do I leave it in the solution?

Will I need to treat it more than once?

I'll rethink the SAE, I guess..

I already have 2 yo-yos that I didn't really want (but have since come to love) in my SA fish tank to take care of my snail population (hitchhiked on some plants, I guess).. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Just an update..

Been doing weekly 50% WCs, and dosing as per EI.

The Excel bath I gave my anubias.. I must have used too strong a mix, or left them in too long, or both. I have had to trim off alot of dead leaves, and it will be a long time coming back, but I hope they WILL recover eventually..

The Staghorn isn't as bad a s it was, but it is still present..

I got 2 SAE, but they haven't been eating much algae at all, from what I can see.. They are both about 1" in length, and I have been careful to keep them away from fish food as much as possible..









 

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To those who have apparently found success with high light, high CO2, and ferts. Once you get this thing where everything is matched and your growth is optimum, how often do you have to prune? When I pruned, I was removing a significant amount of biomass. Do you trim lightly but very often or do you prune heavy less frequently.
 

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I did, but I noticed that a few of the folks who have been "advisory" roles on this thread, don't tend to venture off to some of the other forums. So I thought I'd try here first. It's not unlike fishing, one spot is not the same as the other so you sometimes do better if you move around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Well, some people don't appreciate it when you use their thread to forward a totally unrelated question..

It's even got a name: thread crapping..

Just FYI..
 

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Is there any more staghorn showing up? Or is is just residual? I suspect that you are still a bit low on the macros. Your Alternanthera says as much.

Please feed your SAEs. They probably won't eat staghorn and should not be relied upon to do so.
 

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Well, some people don't appreciate it when you use their thread to forward a totally unrelated question..

It's even got a name: thread crapping..

Just FYI..
Well I thought it was related. I mean they say pump, pump, pump with the CO2, lights and ferts and I just thought there are going to be consequences...like a ton of biomass. That in turn equals more (or higher) maintenance. That's related enough for me no matter what you call it. But nevermind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
Well I thought it was related.
I can see that, and I appreciate where you're coming from.

It's just that it doesn't really help this discussion along, and instead would go in another direction..

Didn't mean to sound snarky..

I honestly thought you didn't know you were thread crapping..
Is that staghorn new?
The staghorn is new..

Last WC I removed 95% of the affected plants. What's coming back now is new algae, just nowhere near as bad..

What macros do I need, still? Or are my portions too small?

Here's the dosing regime again:

60-80g:

¾ tsp KN03
¼ tsp KH2P04 Mon, Wed, Fri
¼ tsp K2SO4

¼ tsp (20ml) Trace Elements Tues, Thurs, Saturday

Sunday 50% weekly water change

I'm trying to up the CO2, but how do you do that without pushing the pH too low?

I've already taken in from 6.8 to 6.3.

The water I use for WCs is 70:30 demin water (pH 6, GH 0) : tap water (pH 7.8, GH 11).

I also have peat in my filters.

The SAE are getting enough to eat.. They eat the NLS small fish formula and bloodworms that makes it to the bottom of the tank.
 

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The preferred term would be "thread hijacking". ;) When possible, it's usually best to start a new thread in this instance. The person asking the question will be much more likely to get the responses they're looking for. :)
 

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I wasn't hijacking anyone's thread. I was expanding the discussion. Everyone is discussing everything except the fact that there is going to be a lot of biomass that will have to be dealt with in this equation. It seems to me that it is equally important to maintain a biomass in balance with those optimum levels of CO2, ferts, and light. After all, if the objective isn't to grow plants at an excellerated rate, one could just remove the CO2, ferts and most of the light, and the algae would be gone.

I think it's applicable to this discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I was expanding the discussion
Umm.. Exactly.. :)

I don't want to expand the discussion, I want answers having to do only with my specific issue with this particular algae, and any tenuous connection with biomass issues is just going to muddy the waters in my opinion, applicable or not..

Now, to repeat:

What other macros do I need, still? Or are my portions too small?

I'm trying to up the CO2, but how do you do that without pushing the pH too low?

I've already taken in from 6.8 to 6.3.

I'm getting a kH of zero, which is weird, seeing as how I'm getting a GH of 11..

Is it possible? Or is my test kit compromised?

The water I use for WCs is 70:30 demin water (pH 6, GH 0) : tap water (pH 7.8, GH 11).

You'd think I'd have plenty of buffering from the tap water..

I also have peat in my filters.

The SAE are getting enough to eat.. They eat the NLS small fish formula and bloodworms that makes it to the bottom of the tank.

I think I'll add some pear, on the advice of a friend..
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Across the board, I assume?

New ratio:

60-80g:

1 1/4 tsp KN03
2/3 tsp KH2P04 Mon, Wed, Fri
2/3 tsp K2SO4

2/3 tsp (20ml) Trace Elements Tues, Thurs, Saturday

Sunday 50% weekly water change
 
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