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It is the simplicity of this that make us non scientist follow this system. A solenoid set up with the lights and a cheap drop checker and even the novice is good to go. One need not be a chemist to follow and understand.
 

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I've been using the following Victor dual stage VTS-253A regulators with Swagelok or Ideal metering valves. I use Burkert and Clippard solenoids.

These regulators are great! I have 5 of them.

There are terrific for our use!!!!

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/mrmotorcycles_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
Hello here,
I have a new 75gl tank and I would like to make it a live plant aquarium. So, I am looking around for a good CO2 system, I have a good budget to spend for it, so I wouldn't consider that an issue. I was looking into this system today and I would like any suggestions or thoughts:

http://www.aquariumplants.com/product_p/pr4026.htm

Do you think that would be too much for a 75gl tank? Also, I can see that the reactor there uses a pump (a Rio pump): will that make it noisy? I am asking that because I know there are other CO2 systems without pumps, so I was wondering if that's something really needed for my tank size or not. I am not expert in CO2 systems and I never got one! Any help and advice about this system and any other possible system is very, very welcome!

Thank you in advance.

Best,
Fabrizio
 

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It is the simplicity of this that make us non scientist follow this system. A solenoid set up with the lights and a cheap drop checker and even the novice is good to go. One need not be a chemist to follow and understand.
There is no difference between a pH controller and your vanilla system. When you set up your system, you have to fool around with the bubble rate to make sure that you get a good level of CO2. With a pH controller, you have to fool around with the pH until you get a good CO2 level. Once you find that you set it and forget it.

The difference is that your bubble counter cannot adjust to the rate of CO2 your plants use. So what you do is try to average it out by adding a solenoid valve and a timer.

With a pH controller the CO2 is automatically supplied at whatever rate you require. It is so accurate that I don't even have a drop checker because it is way too inaccurate. My pH controller can supply CO2 to within +/- 2 ppm. Your drop checker is great and you have really good color discrimination if you can tell +/- 10 ppm.

With my pH controller, my tank cranks! I mean it churns out O2 like you cannot believe. It is so good that I'll have to throttle it back because I don't want to spend my time with my arm in the tank cutting back plant growth! For real!

Look I know you think Tom Barr is God but sometimes people can get behind the times.

Maybe a pH controller wasn't worth it when it cost $1000.00 but at $110.00 they are worth it (at least to some people).

And like you say, maybe this is too much technology for some people and not worth it.
 

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Tell you what, let me borrow your ph controller I'd love to try it. I don't think tom barr is god, but i do have the old world listen to your teacher.
 

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Yeah my co2 chart readings are defiitely off. Here's why:

I used to use PH Down when i did water changes because the water out of my tap had a high ph 8+ and fairly low kh. I Didn't want to shock my discus with such a large ph shock, so i would lower the ph to about 7.2 or so and add it to the tank. Since i got my co2 controller, i stopped adding PH Down and just add the water directly to the tank after i Prime the whole tank. The PH raises about .4-.6 over the course of the water change, but after about an hour it settles and after every water change i raise the ph on my controller .2 maybe a little more.

It's only been 2 weeks and 2 40% water changes and i'm wondering how long it will be until the "buffer" is out of the water. Getting as close to the colour on the Cal Aqua double drop checker, I set the Ph, and it's hard for me to get above a ph of 6.

When i changed my water last night, i did extensive testing and realized my kH was lower than i thought, I would say less than 2dkH. Something is not right with the buffers in my water if the drop checker is reading what i believe to be near 30ppm. Other than that everything is going very well. Not really any algae, fish are great, healthy and active. Water clean and clear. My cryp spiralis is really growing tall and full.

Here's the results of my test I'm pretty happy with these results with just tap, i was really stressing my tap water situation a few months ago.

Ph: 6.1
Nitrate: 20+ppm
GH: 6
Kh: <2 Added Bicarb to bring it to about 3
Phosphate: .5ppm
Iron: .5ppm
Co2: about 30ppm
 

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Yeah my co2 chart readings are defiitely off. Here's why:

It's only been 2 weeks and 2 40% water changes and i'm wondering how long it will be until the "buffer" is out of the water. Getting as close to the colour on the Cal Aqua double drop checker, I set the Ph, and it's hard for me to get above a ph of 6.
Do you mean below 6.0? CO2 should be bringing your pH down not up.

Once you drop checker reaches the color you want that is the correct pH to set your controller at. If you want to run at a lower pH you will have to reduce the amount of carbonates in your water. Adding bicarbonates will increase the pH of your "30 ppm" tank.

BTW I wouldn't run at 30 ppm. My tank is at 20 ppm and my plants grow like crazy.
 

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The reason i said "above 6.0" is because i believe the ph down is still affecting the reading of the co2 chart. I have done another few water changes and now my ph is around 6.2 which seems to work out pretty well and now my co2 chart is pretty accurate.
 

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If you use a drop checker the tank ph will have no effect on the readings, thats why the drop checker is more accurate than a ph chart.
 

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I am just setting up my first proper planted tank at home, I must admit I have just purchased a PH controller and only because it is a nice to have, it is proven you can run a tank beautifully with out one and it is also proven you can run on beautifully with one. Is it as simple as that?
 

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Basically yes, I believe ray proved that the ph controller can be a little bit more accurate. How ever most do not use them and have had great success, But If you have one use it. If you have a lot of experience you can also read the tank to see what it needs.
 

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I am just setting up my first proper planted tank at home, I must admit I have just purchased a PH controller and only because it is a nice to have, it is proven you can run a tank beautifully with out one and it is also proven you can run on beautifully with one. Is it as simple as that?
Here is something you cannot do without a pH controller!

Check out this regulator from Aquariumplants.com.

http://www.aquariumplants.com/AquariumPlants_com_s_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm
I'm looking at the 289.99 model.
It has a digital bubble counter and an integrating display. Once you set your pH, the controller always has the exact same level of CO2 in your tank. The integrating display tells you exactly (to a couple of decimal places) how much plant activity (based on CO2 use) you have. When you increase/decrease your light cycle, the integrating display will tell you how much change in plant activity that produces. When a plant gets sick, you will know even before it starts to drop leaves from the decline in activity! Is that great or what?

I already have the digital regulator. The next toy I'll get is the one with the integrating display.
 
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