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Does AHS have a 5500K with a 92 CRI in the 36 watt?

I am using the 5500K in 55 watt. A nice white light and represents colors well.
 

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They don't post the specs, simply the color temperature, I don't even really know what brand they are...

Do you know of another resource to order 36 watt PC straight pin connector bulbs?
 

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I took a look and they do.
Bulb # 11365
Here is a link: http://ahsupply.com/mcart/index.cgi?code=3&cat=6

They won't let on to the brand but they are decent CF bulbs. Very similar to the Philips PLL950s (they did tell me that they werent Philips). I suspect Sylvania makes them. Oh, and they dont offer spectral output graphs either.

I'm thinking of going linear T5 as you cant get really good CFs with appropriate plant lighting.
 

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Please pm about how the 10000K looks and how the plants like them.
 

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I'll try and remember Newt. I won't have them till end of next week though, and I still have a few more parts to piece together before I have the tank up and running. I've gotta get Co2 and then purchase or trade for plants.
 

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I've been running the 55w 5500K high CRI bulbs from ahsupply. I have found that they do not produce pearling nearly as good as the Philips PL-L 950's 5300K 92CRI I had been using. I recently replaced them with (3) T8 bulbs: Philips Aquarelle, Philips ADV850 and an All-Glass 8000K. I have 14 fewer watts but the pearling is tremendous.

I ordered a miro4 four foot reflector and a Fulham Workhorse 5 ballast from naturallighting.com (good prices) and got 2 cheap shop lights from Home Depot. I will strip the shop lights and use the shells and connector ends with the Fulham ballast and miro4 reflector and place them into an enclosure to run (4) T8's.

BTW, 10,000K are typically more of a marine bulb and the extra blue light emitted will tend to produce more algae growth. If you like the looks then go for it; otherwise lean more toward full spectrum bulbs.
 

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For my 20 gal I have been using 2 5500K and 1 actinic. THe actinic balances out the other two, creating a daylight effect. Yet, I was wondering if this was a good idea. The plants grow great, but is there a better combination that I could go with?

Also, I bought a 20" 28W PC strip from coralife. It came with a 10000K/actinic bulb. Should I replace this bulb with the 6700K/10000K bulb?
 

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I have a 20 gallon tank right now with 60 watt fluorescent lighting. I have 4 bulbs and they are all different color temperatures. i have just decided to lower the amount of light for my aquarium because i'm not dosing enough nutrients and the balance is off. I'd rather just turn off some lights than spend a lot of money on fertilizers. so my question is, what spectrum of bulbs should i be using for now if i want slow plant growth but still healthy, good looking growth? should i use a bulb that helps my plants and a bulb that looks good? any input would be helpful.
 

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btimmer30,
What bulbs do you currently have? Brand/kelvin/wattage and type of fluorecsent
 

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i have some hagen glo bulbs, 1 sun glo 4200k, 1 power glo 18000k, 1 life glo 6700k, and 2 all glass aquarium brand bulbs, which seem to have a purplish light. all are 15 watt t8
 

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I have attached the spectral outputs for each of the bulbs you listed.
The SunGlo has good overall spectral output across the visible spectrum but is heavy in the yellow.
The PowerGlo is heavy on the blue, has a large yellow spike and NO red. Plants need red and blue light.
The LifeGlo has a heavy green spike and no red. The green is good for the human eye as far as brightness goes.
The AGA 8000K has appropriate spikes for plant growth but is purplish.

I'd try the SunGlo and a AGA 8000K and see how it looks. This should also provide the appropriate light to stimulate photosynthesis.

SunGlo:


PowerGlo:


LifeGlo:


AGA 8000K:
 

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Go to Home Depot and get some Philips C50 (Colortone 50) and/or Philips Day Light Delux. I know they make the Delux in a T8.

T8 linear fluorescents should be changed out at least every year. If either end is blackened then the cathode tube is past it's prime and failing. This will result in diminished light output and likely a shift in the spectral output.
 

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Newt, do you know what Philips model that "Daylight Delux" retail brand is? In looking for the associated models I found the F32T8/TL950, which is rated at 98 CRI: http://www.bulbs.com/eSpec.aspx?ID=9361&Ref=Light+Bulbs&RefId=14

I've been trying to find spectral info on various fluorescent bulbs. One source I found was this site: http://www.mv.helsinki.fi/aphalo/photobio/lamps.html The guy has been doing research and collected data using spectroradiometers for a lot of common light sources. Newt, I would really like to know how you have been collecting the spectrographic data you've been posting. I'd also like to know if there are any affordable or DIY ways to emulate the functionality of a spectroradiometer... at least that would be suitable for comparative measurements of fluorescent tubes. It would be really cool to have some kind of community effort to get spectrographic measures of commonly used aquarium lighting sources.

Interestingly the researcher I mentioned in the site above collected data for the Philips TLD36W/15 and TLD36W/18. These tubes produce strong red and strong blue light respectively. By his tests, their peak outputs are almost perfectly matched to peak chlorophyll photon receptivity. I found a source for them online here: https://www.bulbs.com/T--8_Linear/35W_--_39W/results.aspx I imagine that if you had a setup with 3 or 4 tubes you could use one each of these and one or two 90+ CRI tubes to achieve a very efficient and visually pleasing setup.
 
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