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I'm very paranoid about leaks. The design in which the glass heater is going through the cordgrip allows for easy adjustment of the temperature and the assembly is very easy.

But I personally would put the entire heater inside the housing and have only the electric cord come out of the whole contraption. Since there will be good water flow in this DIY chamber if the heater ever breaks close to the cordgrip the tank will empty in a matter of minutes.

--Nikolay
 

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I'm very paranoid about leaks. The design in which the glass heater is going through the cordgrip allows for easy adjustment of the temperature and the assembly is very easy.

But I personally would put the entire heater inside the housing and have only the electric cord come out of the whole contraption. Since there will be good water flow in this DIY chamber if the heater ever breaks close to the cordgrip the tank will empty in a matter of minutes.

--Nikolay
Wouldn't using an unbreakable [well almost] heater like the Stealth negate this issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The reason I started buying ebo jegers 12 years a go is that the store sales man smacked it on the counter to show me that it would't braeak. At that time I had some big oscars that would run in to the cheap one's and brake it. The ebo stopped that, never had a heater problem again.
 

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i'm using a stealth but there is a bit of an issue since it has 4 ridges that run the length of the heater. just makes it a little more difficult to get a good seal.
I use the Stealth in mine, the ridges are soft plastic. carefully cut them off and the seal works great. I use a sharp chisel to trim the ridges so it won't cut to deep.
 

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The metal heater sure looks like it's the perfect heater. But it's not. I had one of them overheat badly, soften the hoses of the canister filter and the outflow hose separated from the canister. 50 gals. of water shot out of the filter all over the floor in a matter of minutes.

That was the time when I started to get paranoid about aquarium leaks (and dirty carpet too, haha).

But the Titanium heaters have round cables (easy seal with the plastic water seal gizmo part), not all heaters do.

--Nikolay
 

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The metal heater sure looks like it's the perfect heater. But it's not. I had one of them overheat badly, soften the hoses of the canister filter and the outflow hose separated from the canister. 50 gals. of water shot out of the filter all over the floor in a matter of minutes.

That was the time when I started to get paranoid about aquarium leaks (and dirty carpet too, haha).

But the Titanium heaters have round cables (easy seal with the plastic water seal gizmo part), not all heaters do.

--Nikolay
Nikolay,

That sounds like a nightmare of an experience! I can understand if you never want to use a titanium heater again because of it. However, it's hard to believe that the heater overheated because the body was made from titanium. It sounds like the temperature control was bad on your unit. The same thing could have happened with a traditional glass heater. There's always a chance that a piece of equipment will be faulty.

I've found that the Azoo titanium heater I used in the project linked above has worked very well. The two major plusses I've seen using the Azoo for an inline project are:

1. The temp control is separate from the body which allows you to not only see when it's on, but easily adjust the temperature.

2. It has an automatic shut-off if the heater is not submersed in water. A very good thing to have when the heater is out of sight, inside a pipe.
 
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