DIY LED Lighting via Luxeon Stars
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well, doing a little nano tank, so I also had fun with a new LED light *L*
Converted a Zalman CNPS3100 cpu heatsink to mount the LEDs. (probably enough heatsink to passively cool 3x3watt stars instread of the 1watters on right now). Also threw together a quick and dirty DIY contant current source. makes a really nice little "micro halide"!!!!
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Converted a Zalman CNPS3100 cpu heatsink to mount the LEDs. (probably enough heatsink to passively cool 3x3watt stars instread of the 1watters on right now). Also threw together a quick and dirty DIY contant current source. makes a really nice little "micro halide"!!!!
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I think I am going to call this particular end of the study an end. I don't think I need to continue with this exact setup.
here is what I noticed about the LEDs
1)They had a significant advantage over the PCs with HM (2 and 3 leaf). This should be EXTREMELY obvious in the pictures.
2)The LEDs had significant more runners with dwarf hair grass (not obvious in the picture, but ovbious if you looked from above).
3)Neither the LEDs or PCs had possitive results with rotala or glosso. These tanks had virgin substrate, so there was pretty much NO macro nutrients for the roots. All ferts were in the water column. This MIGHT account for the glosso and rotala. I would have to repeat this with mature substrate to confirm.
NEXT: I will move the LEDs to a "normal" environment. I'll get 1 or 2 nanos up and soon enough, the 10g as well.
Comments and suggestions are welcome
here is what I noticed about the LEDs
1)They had a significant advantage over the PCs with HM (2 and 3 leaf). This should be EXTREMELY obvious in the pictures.
2)The LEDs had significant more runners with dwarf hair grass (not obvious in the picture, but ovbious if you looked from above).
3)Neither the LEDs or PCs had possitive results with rotala or glosso. These tanks had virgin substrate, so there was pretty much NO macro nutrients for the roots. All ferts were in the water column. This MIGHT account for the glosso and rotala. I would have to repeat this with mature substrate to confirm.
NEXT: I will move the LEDs to a "normal" environment. I'll get 1 or 2 nanos up and soon enough, the 10g as well.
Comments and suggestions are welcome
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Very impressive findings, Gomer!
If I could afford something like this right now I would go do it, just because I'm a techno geek and I like good plant growth
Out of curiousity, if you are able to: How much does a system like you tested cost? 24 lights, controller boxes, heat sink, all little extras, etc.
Something like that would be fantastic to put over my tanks, so I am just a little curious
If I could afford something like this right now I would go do it, just because I'm a techno geek and I like good plant growth
Out of curiousity, if you are able to: How much does a system like you tested cost? 24 lights, controller boxes, heat sink, all little extras, etc.
Something like that would be fantastic to put over my tanks, so I am just a little curious
Unfortunately the cost of gomers system is rather high... But overall it might not be so bad...Geo said:Out of curiousity, if you are able to: How much does a system like you tested cost? 24 lights, controller boxes, heat sink, all little extras, etc.
Something like that would be fantastic to put over my tanks, so I am just a little curious
www.luxeonstar.com <- where gomer got some of his toys
Star1 emmiters are 11$us each
Xitanium drivers are 30-84$us each - depends on how many emmiters/ options as to which one...
Plus wire, solder, and some sort of heatsink...
Andy
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What about using these. Wouldn't they make construction easier or are the outputs different.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=297&link_str=189::194&partno=LXHL-MWJA
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=297&link_str=189::194&partno=LXHL-MWJA
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Oh ok I just saw that they called it a flood so figured it would spread the light out.
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Actually, you can unfocus that fixture. The 10° columating lenses are removable as far as I know. I know that you can use those same mounts and snap on those same colimating lenses.
As for sanding, unless you opticaly polish, you loose light due to scattering.
As for sanding, unless you opticaly polish, you loose light due to scattering.
That is an interesting experiment. I can see why they would be willing to give you free LEDs. The fact that the wattage is the same doesn't mean the amount of light that is being produced is the same. Wattage is only going to matter when figuring out the cost of running the system. In fact, since led's are supposed to be more efficient, there is probably considerably more light coming from the LEDs vs. the old PCs. This would account for the superior growth seen in the LED tank. The images also lead me to believe the the quality of light coming from the LEDs is inferior to the PC's. Since you are in touch with the manufacturer, can we get some stats on the LEDs? I would like to know what the CRI is for the LEDs. Although comparing that to PCs that generally have a low CRI might not be the best comparison. Maybe comparing the LEDs to t8 tri-phosphor bulbs with CRI's over 90 would be enlightening. I have used LEDs on Marine FO tanks, and I do like them, but I don't think they render color well, that isn't a problem in marine tanks were people are used to seeing actinics over tanks (talk about bad CRI)
One good thing about the experiment is that you have shown that you can grow plants with LEDs.
Shawn
One good thing about the experiment is that you have shown that you can grow plants with LEDs.
Shawn
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I just came across this thread. I think it's a good test, as when I was looking at modding up my tank, I found the Luxeon's on the web and thought that it would be a neat idea for a tank lid.
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