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Good luck and please post some pictures on how your project went.

Completely removing the siliconee off the glass is VERY difficult. If you are too picky and have to not see any silicone when you look at the glass in reflected light you are up for some long and hard work. Follow the guy's advice and use brand new razor blades as often as you can.

No chemical sold as a silicone remover works. Home Depot sells a green tube full of goo looking green stuff that does absolutely nothing. You can also get your hands on an industrial grade spray made by Dow Chemicals that also does nothing or a little more than nothing to silicone. So a new razor blade is the way.

--Nikolay
 

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Just to be safe, you should also have a small silicon carbide sharpening stone available. Some tanks are made with glass that has not had the sharp corners on the top edge rounded off. If you find that to be the case, the stone will easily get rid of that sharp edge. When you get through you won't have an ADA quality tank, but I have seen tanks done this way that look very good.
 

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What do you think about on a 55G? I just took the rim off mine today b/c the center brace cracked(took me a couple hours). I considered using just a 4-6" wide piece of glass for the new center brace it. I guess I would just attach it with silicone which makes me a little nervous so i was wondering if anyone has experience with this. The glass costs $3 so I thought I may do 2 4" braces either 2' apart or using 2 on top of each other in the middle. I can pick this up Monday morning and aquarium silicone.

I saw stuff online, mentioning that people have done it, in one place a guy said he has heard about people doing it and heard it doesnt seem to last long.

I also read up on "euro bracing" not sure I would be able to do that, maybe just a center brace then 2 more braces on the sides?

The frames are kind hard to get, I talked with a guy 2hrs from me that builds tanks for a living and he can sell me a frame but i would have to pick it up or wait 3 weeks for him to come down here and deliver to the LFS.

thatpetplace.com is a joke, the 1st 2 times I called the people said that they do not sell them, the one lady said that they have them in the retail store but would not sell me one. Then I just called again and a guy quickly found the part and gave me the part # for online. They only sell Black and get it on a special order truck that only comes once a month:(
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/212027/product.web

That all glass cages place only has black and can ship Monday, so I have till then to decide what to do.

BTW my tank is currently 1/2 full of water and has fish/plants in it so I was thinking the glass would be quicker to get and cost $3 + silicone I need anyway. My frame/stand are oak color.

 

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I would be afraid on a 55 gallon, that is a lot of water if something goes wrong. What is the thickness of the glass? Heck I am even concerned about doing it on a 10 gallon as all the ones I've seen seem to only have 1/8 inch glass. Now the little 5 gallons I would definitely do it. I do think it looks good without the frame if you can figure it out.
 

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Whoa there.

Cutting the rim off ... sure.

Trimming the silicon too? Seems like you're inviting disaster. If you're going to go through all that work, why not spend a little extra effort to fully break the tank apart, clean the glass, and apply a stronger grade of silicon? I'd trust it a lot more than a hacked up version.
 

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I'm far from an expert on this, but my understanding is that the silicon that provides the strength in a joint is only that which is in the thin layer between the two pieces of glass. At most the fillet of silicon in the corners helps prevent leakage. Silicone sealant is very flexible, so a thick gob will easily deflect under stress, but a thin layer just barely deflects under stress.
 

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I'm far from an expert on this, but my understanding is that the silicon that provides the strength in a joint is only that which is in the thin layer between the two pieces of glass. At most the fillet of silicon in the corners helps prevent leakage. Silicone sealant is very flexible, so a thick gob will easily deflect under stress, but a thin layer just barely deflects under stress.
I'd assume you'd want to "prevent leakage" on an aquarium...
 

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with the 55 GO AHEAD AND GET THE black top !! I think that the pain and suffering to get the glass pc in perfect on that tank is def. not worth it . I have a 90 gallon sitting there. the middle glass pc is missing, how do I know, well I can see the thick silcone and each side in the middle, somebody broke the glass, now a guy I know that makes tanks, told me that I want the glass in the middle longer than the glass from side to side. so I have to somehow bow out the glass a little with the tank on its side to do this . thankfully I do have a wooden top on thi8s tank, just no centerbrace. (yes very old 90 gallon ) I got it cheap, but I do not want it to leak or break !! I am renting , and that would for sure get me thrown out .

anyway my advice for your 55 with NO rim, is that the glass is too thin, my glass is really thick, (90) and I still do not trust it, your glass is super thin on a 55 gallon, and you will not know how much you need the top brace until it leaks or breaks, better to go with it . If you are any good at diy, then you can get the b;ack top, get some kyrlon fusion (spraypaint) *( its the best I have ever sprayed) and they have great colors, you could spray the top tp match the bottom, even a little off, I really dont belive people would notice, it is what is in the tank, not the rim.

npw for the 10 gallonl ,go for it !!! be careful def. do what the 1st reply said, sounds like great advice, and good luck !! post pics, and show us your new tank' , would also want to see the lighting you choose, I have my 5.5 with a tom rapids now, (am not very impressed yet ) but now I would like to go rimless, and find a neat light , maybye even with legs ..
 
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