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I have about four visitherms, and I'm not happy with any of them. When the temps in my house drop to 70 degrees, they can't hold the temps up. I replaced the Visitherm in my 55 with a new EBo and the Ebo holds the temp much, much better. I hope it ultimately lasts (luckily I just bought two titaniums, but I'm waiting to put them in).
 

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Another Option

Tronics -- Hagen's top-of-the-line heater. On the other forums I frequent, when someone asks what the best brand of heater is, Ebo-Jager and Tronic are consistently the two answers. I prefer Tronics -- very reliable, and Hagen also sells a nice plastic guard that slips over the glass to prevent accidents. The Tronics (like Jagers) also have a dry shut-off switch in case you are forgetful during a water change. Highly recommended -- a 50W would fit the bill in a 10G.

HTH.
 

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I had a visitherm break mysteriously while I was out of town recently too. A piece of the glass was just sitting on the bottom and the tank water was quite cold. As far as I know I never damaged it physically. However, large gas bubbles used to get stuck under it while it was in the horizontal position. While I'm not sure of it, I have some suspicion that one of those bubbles is what caused my heater to crack (reduced heat conduction), so I've been setting them up at an angle since then to prevent gas from collecting. The broken part of the glass was right where the bubble usually formed.

No proof on this, but just something to consider when positioning your heater.
 

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I have purhcase 4 ebo over the years. 300watt from 2 years ago, 300 watt and 150 watt 1/2 year ago, and 100 watt during Christmas of 2004. The most recent one shows it is built by Eheim.

The 300 watt from 2 years ago is running fine without condensation or sticky control nob. the 150 watt from 1/2 year ago has a little bit of condensation.
 

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JanS said:
It means the moisture is entering the inside of the heater when it isn't supposed to (they are supposed to be fully sealed so water can't get in), and now the water is exposed to the electrical elements.
The water might have gotten when the product was manufactured. Maybe the water was trapped in there when it was produced due to humid conditions at the factory (?). I have had an ebo jaeger with condensation run for almost 4 years now. My oldest one must be close to 10 years now.

I would recommend E-J's over the visitherm. I worked in a fish lab and at an aquarium store. Little issues with the E-J's at the store but we had visitherms breaking almost every week in the lab. Ironically though the fish were never fried (Maybe there is a fail safe mechanism built inside?) and the temperature in those tanks was never constant ranging from luke warm to "is that thing working?" cold. It is sad what happened to the angels though.

For those that like the older models I found this site whom might be clearing them out:

http://www.petguys.com

I'm pretty sure they're the old ones because of the pictures. But I ordered a 250 watt which should be in on friday and can confirm for sure.

David
 

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turtlehead said:
can you put the new jagers all the way in pass the water level even when it says not to?
Unless you have a model I've never seen before, yes submerse them all the way. Most of us run them horizontal about 5" from the bottom of the tank for better heat distribution.

Where does it say not to put it past the water level?
On every one I've seen, the water level line is the very minimum you can have it sticking out of the water.
 

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I got one of the newer jager and it has a "do not immersed below line" making it not fully submergable and the temp is screwed up.

set at 77f and get 84 recalibrate and now it won't turn off. water is at 84f set heater to 65 and its still heating.
 

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none for the 10 g from where im ordering from..
I haven't gone thorugh this whole thread yet so someone else might have posted this already.

Here's a 50W Pro-Heat model:

WON Pro-Heat IC Heater 50 W - Marine Depot - Marine and Reef Aquarium Super Store

Ken's Fish also has them. I didn't check prices today because there are server issues at Ken's right now.

There are other brands out there, also. I like Rena heaters, with the silver plated thermostat contacts, but a few people have had issues with them.

If you have only one or a few tanks, the cost of the titanium heaters with outboard controls, even the digital ones, are probably not a concern. I will be replacing my existing heaters with those over time or as they fail.

We've had ones sold at Wal Mart last a year or two before they fail or get water inside. One of those we still use as an emergency heater for a quarantine tank or as a backup while we replace a failed heater.

Our Hydor Theo 300W heater in the 100 gallon is working well but I don't remember how far back in time we got it. I haven't heard of many complaints about that brand.

There is an advantage to the titanium heaters with outboard controllers and a separate sensor. Since the sensor is not inside the tube, it will reflect actual water temps more accurately. And, since you don't have a rotatable know to waterproof, it can be sealed much more effectively to prevent leakage. I would prefer glass so that I can see if it is leaking, but it probably is not an issue with these.

One plus for the Visitherm deluxe is that it has a lifetime (?) warranty. But if your fish die because of a failure, that's not going to replace your fish.
 

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Glass is a good thermal conductor (better than plastic). One can also visually inspect the inside with a glass housing. The presence of water inside the glass housing gives an early warning to a bad heater. Sure, the heater could work for another 2 to 3 years, but why take this risk for a $25 item?

The original EJ LZ line is probably the best heater made to date. The newer TZ line adds adjustable temperature knob, which could lead to premature leakage. I suspect the bi-metallic sensor assembly is also cheaper, resulting in unstable temperature control.

Hagen has a new line of electronic heaters...Fluval Tronics. It's probably the same as the original Hagen Tronics, with minor tweaks.
 
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