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27 Posts
great article and really helpful
Since GH doesn't tell you whether you have zero magnesium or a lot of magnesium, it can be desirable to dose magnesium even with a GH of 5 degrees. I can find out how much I have, on average, in my tap water from my water quality report. The report also gives the range of values that might exist throughout the year. Since, my range can hit zero, I dose some epsom salts to be sure I have magnesium in the water.Hi, do you really need to dose Ca and Mg if you have a GH value of 5-6? Thanks
Oh, you're right. When i type it in it liks correctly.I just checked this link and it works
http://www.aquariumfertilizers.com/
you can also order dry ferts from Rexgrigg.com
good luck
The numbers for trace elements are 1/2 tsp if dosed dry, or 30 ml of a mix of trace mix in water. I don't remember what the "standard" mix in water is, since I never do that.Something doesn't seem right with the EI dosing guides. For example:
For a 100 -125 gal tank
+/- 1 1/2 tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- ½ tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- ½ tsp (30ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
When I use the fertilator and the values: 1 1/2 tsp KN03, 1/2 tsp KH2P04 and a 110 gal tank, I come up with these ppm increases:
NO3 11.49
PO4 4.69
K 9.18
Isn't PO4 way too high?
Also 1/2 tsp is only 2.5 ml not 30 ml? Isn't 30 ml of trace way to high?
That make sense but the diluted formula calls for 3 tsp (1 tbl) dissolved in 250 ml.The numbers for trace elements are 1/2 tsp if dosed dry, or 30 ml of a mix of trace mix in water.
I didn't comment on the PO4 because I have been dosing about 1.5 to 2X the EI dosage on PO4 to help control GSA. From what I have been reading, there is nothing wrong with dosing 1/2 tsp for a 100 gallon tank. When you consider the range of tank sizes the dosages are given for, it is obvious that accuracy in dosing isn't important. Tom Barr always says these dosages are just starting points, and you can start reducing them a bit, watching for adverse results, reducing a bit more, etc. I don't do that because I haven't been good at keeping my plant mass nearly constant. The increased plant mass as the plants take off means you need more fertilizer anyway.That make sense but the diluted formula calls for 3 tsp (1 tbl) dissolved in 250 ml.
That means adding 30 ml is too low:
3tsp/250ml x 30ml = 0.36 tsp.
I think you want to add 40 ml:
3tsp/250ml x 40ml = 0.48 tsp
I doubt this will make much of a difference.
Do you have any take on the PO4?
One of the reasons i switched from E.I. that was working for me to PPS-Pro was i didn't have the time to do water changes on 4 tanks every week. and the buildup from skipping a wc gets pretty big. I have to say i was happy with E.I. but im even happier with PPS-ProIf you want to switch to the EI method you need to do so. Switching to that method means dosing more than the minimum of each nutrient, then doing about a 50% water change every week to avoid a too high build up of any of the nutrients. So, you should dose:
1 tsp of KNO3 three times a week
3/8 tsp of KH2PO4 three times a week, along with the KNO3
3/8 tsp of CSM+B three times a week on different days from the above dosing.
If you want to stick to 15-20% water changes every 3 weeks, you can't dose per EI. Then you need to look into PPS Pro as an alternative.
Thanks for the info on pps-pro. I am researching it now. The one think I don't like about it is the daily dosing so I need to think whether this will work for me.EI was designed for high light, CO2 injected, heavily planted tanks. When you adapt it for lower light, no CO2, and lightly planted tanks, you can't use the tables in the sticky. As I recall, the usual plan is to dose only once a week, and dose somewhat less than the dose recommended for 3 times a week. That also means you don't need weekly 50% water changes, but monthly would be more like it. By then it isn't really EI.
If your nitrates are already high you should calibrate your nitrate test kit, by verifying that it gives the right concentration when checked against solutions with known concentrations of nitrate in them. Only then can you know that your nitrates are high.If my nitrates are already high (about 50) should I still add the KN03?
Hi Hoppy,Assuming you have average tap water, you need KNO3 and KH2PO4. You also need a source of trace elements, which can be Greg Watson's CSM+B or it can be a commercial trace mix, such as Flourish. Your big tank will go through commercial trace mixes pretty fast, so CSM+B would be the best idea. Assuming you have about 300 watts of PC quality light with good reflectors, I would start by dosing 2 tsp KNO3 3X per week, 3/4 tsp KH2PO4 3X per week, and 1/2 - 3/4 tsp CSM+B (dosed dry) 3X per week. If you have much lower light than 300 watts, I would cut down to 2X or less per week.
*If your water has a low GH, or little or no Mg component of the GH I would dose Greg Watsons Barr GH builder too.