Ahhhhh....but it most certainly can be done! That's what I have. Almost all Anubias and moss in my main tank. Low tech and I love it. The secret is a standard EI 50% water changes and a handful of duckweed.Bert H said:I agree with Aaron. I made the mistake of starting a brand new tank with a lot of Anubias - mistake! They could be the poster plant for 'slow and steady'... Another suggestion is to keep your phosphates in the 2-4 range if you're going to have a lot of Anubias to keep green spot algae at bay. The Anubias leaves are incredibly long lived and if anything will get the green spot, it's them.
Not really.. maybe I'm one in a million lucky dude. My anubias barteri will bud a new leaf and quickly grow about 20mm in leaf length in 4-5 days. Only then it will do the usual pace of slow and easy growth. For my tank a new bud will take about a month to get about 3cm. I'm using 32 watt LED with 2080 lumens set on for 11 hours with auto dimming simulating sunrise and sunset and placed about 3.5cm above the water. The LED setting gives 5 hours of full brightness in the cycle. My tank temp is consistent around 29 deg celcius, PH 8, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite.and 5-10 nitrate. Don't now the GH and KH because I've never had the chance to get the tool but for the rest I use API master kit. This tank is 40% planted with fast growing stems and root feeder and about 10% of slow growing. I use JBL Proflora Ferropol 7-days liquid and tab weekly as nutrients since I only have gravel substrate, and also weekly maintenance of 30% conditioned water change. I should receive my JBL KULGHEN root tab which is clay base and long term by next week since I'm tired of poking the substrates weekly and disturbing the substrates to insert the tab for the past 1 and a half year. Sadly I only use CO2 tablet at the moment. Forget to mention this tank housed 6 healthy Dwarf Rainbow Tetra, 2 Cories, 2 Ottos and 5 Guppies supplemented twice daily with Prodac Biogran Garlic micro pellets, Prodac Wafer Mix and Tropical Supervit flakes. I also use 2 layers canister loaded with 3 layers of different mechanical sponges in one and mix bio-media rings types and some others medias in another (no charcoal). At the moment my Alternanthera reineckii still show good red and Limnophila Aromatica exhibiting pinkish hue here and there. Considering my tank setup do you think that makes the anubias barteri bud leaves like that? Oh yeah.. another thing to mention it was everytime I trimmed out older leaf I will see new bud after 2 or 3 days but I also see new bud coming in 3-4 month. Is that normal?Fast growing Anubias is sort of an oxymoron. There's no such thing really. They all grow at about the same rate in my experience. Medium lighting keeps the algae away better and dosing iron will boost growth.
Oh I see.. just came across the discussion while looking for some informations. Well anyway thanks Michael for the answer and glad to hear from you! Stay safe buddy!Welcome to APC!
This discussion is from 2006, so you are not likely to hear from any of the original participants. Growth rate of your anubias sounds normal for optimal conditions.
Amazing scape you got there. Have to agree with you.. the epiphytes plants are slow grower. For that reason normally I use the anubias as my deficiency indicator through observing the old and new growth.I have a 75g full of anubias varieties, from the tiny leaf Nana petite, broad leaf Barteri, wrinkle leaf Coffeefolia, to long leaf Congensis. They all grow slow, some slower than others, so there is observable difference in growth rate among different varieties. In general, the growth rate is proportional to the leaf size. The smaller the leaf size, the slower the growth rate which is reflected in the highest price among the pettite varieties. Higer light and CO2 will increase the growth rate, but still no more than 1 leaf per week for the large leaf and 1 leaf per month for the small leaf varieties.