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Going Porcelain

19228 Views 204 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  johnwesley0
I've been experimenting with a ten gallon Chinese porcelain bowl as a suitable aquarium over the years. I'd had pretty good success using a Fluval cannister set up and a couple of sprigs of anubias barteri The bowl gets about an hour of direct sunlight a day. Things were fine until I started experiencing a series of nitrogen cycle crashes long before I properly understood what cycling actually meant. But, since Jan 4, 21 I've had terrific results using nothing more than a container of old bio media from the old setup and the addition of about 4 lucky bamboo plants (a fifth got water-logged and died.) Just gravel substrate; the curved walls of the bowl direct all fish waste to its center where there is now a thin layer of mulm. The parameters have been stable for nearly six weeks: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 15-20 ppm nitrates. Not quite sure how to attach a photo, but I like the conservatory look it lends to my Brooklyn flat. The only Con is that the silica in the porcelain tends to attract diatoms.
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Oh, and four lucky bamboo plants. Is it possible for lucky bamboo to convert that much ammonia that quickly or can "floating" bacteria contribute its share to the nitrification process?
Floating bacteria, or bacteria in amounts large enough to be seen floating in the water column is something to be avoided at all costs. In fact, I'm willing to bet that you can smell bacteria at that level of concentration. Luckily, most of the beneficial bacteria that uptake nitrogen in aquaria are content to form colonies within solid objects, including gravel and soil.

But here's the thing: plants and bacteria compete for some of the same nitrogen products. And one of those, ammonia/ammonium (I'm not sure what the difference between them is) is metabolized by plants more efficiently than the by-product (nitrate) that is left over after certain bacteria get through with it. So, the whole idea of a Walstad tank is to give the plants a headstart on the bacteria in order to give them first crack at the available ammonia/ammonium.

And, yes. Lucky bamboo are great at consuming ammonia/ammonium before it gets converted to nitrite and then to nitrate by beneficial bacteria. @dwalstad writes extensively about how certain terrestrial plants that can survive under wet conditions, have an "Aerial Advantage" over aquatic plants in that they can perform photosynthesis above the water line while processing huge amounts of nutrients through their root systems beneath the water; much more than aquatic plants.
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I haven't given up on the porcelain bowl even though all three surviving fish have been transferred to the glass apisto breeding tank. I'm afraid the hair grass that competes for nutrients at the bottom of the bowl where light is difficult to reach also produce a lot of CO2 at night, too much for bottom-dwelling fish like cories and - apistos - for much of the time.

I've tried experimenting with light intensity, by lowering it. So far, the red tiger lotus seem pretty algae free compared to where they were last year at this time:
Flower Plant Terrestrial plant Houseplant Flowering plant


And, I've decided to go even further and swap out the high intensity 1400 lumens floodlight for something a lot lower at 650 lumens. I lowered the lamp to direct it more on the potted dwarf sag that have really hung in there these past 5 months:
Plant Flowerpot Houseplant Botany Terrestrial plant


We'll see where we are in a month, before I return any fish to the bowl. I'd like to see some algae-free growth from the dwarf sag.
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The big players here are your emergent plants. With this kind of competition, your submerged plants are lucky to be alive.
Perhaps try more competitive plants, maybe Anacharis and other 'pond plants'. Fertilize their pots with root tabs or small sections of Job's Plant sticks.
I would enjoy your bowl for what it is--an indoor pond. ;)
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Dear Miss Diana, I think you and I are reaching the same conclusion. The bowl never functioned better as an aquarium than when it was just seven gallons of water and some anubias anchored to the bottom. Never had a problem with algae or diatoms until I added artificial light. I think it would make sense to just return the dwarf sag to the newly vacuumed breeding tank and carpet the remaining substrate in the bowl with a gravel cap. I think for the bowl's purposes the safe-t-sorb cap is almost too porous; I don't want anything else to grow down there except a deeply rooted plants that have an air advantage.
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