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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys got a problem with my anubias, when I got them I dipped them in a hydrogen peroxide solution to get any hair algae off like 5 days ago. Now the leaves look like they're dying. I'm not sure if it was the h.p. dip but dont think itd be regular excel dosing or too little light. I used 1/3 peroxide for like 6 min

Any help on what I should do? Do I cut off the effected leaves?



 

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Looks like you burned the leaves. 6 min is a long time. If the rhizome is ok (firm and green) you should be ok. You may have new leaves grow out but that's ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So shall I remove those leaves asap? I'm worried because almost all seem affect to some degree except one new one and a developing leaf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I decided to try something bold to save them so I grabbed an empty fluval edge tank that I had sitting around to make an emersed set for them. So I put the rhizomes in a pot of soil and covered the top with some plastic wrap. So far the single leaves left on the two rhizomes seen to be doing fine.

I have a few concerns however because the air in the tank smelled bad and I have no heater in the water. Room temperature is 78 and I live in the tropics so humidity should be 76% outside according to a weather forecast. Is a heater absolutely necessary for the water to warmer than the air?

I discovered one of my anubias had the tip of the end of its rizome rotting, so I cut off the tiny bit and the end looks green and solid now.

I spay the plant occasionally with club soda (carbonated water with potassium bicarbonate, potassium citrate and potassium sulfate).

Any advice on how to continue?
Some pics:







 

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Hmm. Well I think it is more likely to survive underwater in your regular fish tank. Converting submersed grown plants to emersed form is a stressful process. Also, since anubias grow very slowly to begin with the conversion process lasts a long time for anubias exposing the plants to stress for a long period of time. Usually anubias can deal with this sort of stress but it has recently had most of its leaves burned off so any additional stress might kill it. Best to keep it submersed and not bother it too much for the next month or two. If you have CO2 on your tank it will heal faster. Also, the soft rhizome you noticed is not a good sign for the plant, whenever my anubias develop soft rhizomes I usually lose the plant to rot. You might have to get new anubias, but you never know... anubias are very hardy plants and if any plant could survive all that it would be anubias.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hmm. Well I think it is more likely to survive underwater in your regular fish tank. Converting submersed grown plants to emersed form is a stressful process. Also, since anubias grow very slowly to begin with the conversion process lasts a long time for anubias exposing the plants to stress for a long period of time. Usually anubias can deal with this sort of stress but it has recently had most of its leaves burned off so any additional stress might kill it. Best to keep it submersed and not bother it too much for the next month or two. If you have CO2 on your tank it will heal faster. Also, the soft rhizome you noticed is not a good sign for the plant, whenever my anubias develop soft rhizomes I usually lose the plant to rot. You might have to get new anubias, but you never know... anubias are very hardy plants and if any plant could survive all that it would be anubias.
well this will be their second night and I'm still hopeful. The leaves look good and im not sure if the damage to rhizome was caused by the hydrogen peroxide. In any case I have this feeling that rhizome rot can only be gotten rid of emersed. Dont ask me why but I think that submersed the rhizome will continue to rot. But we'll see and I'm hoping for the best.

Question: do you think its best to leave the light on 24/7 to heat the tank? room temp is 79-80 in that room.

thanks!!!
 

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I've never tried curing them by converting them to emersed growth. I would be interested in finding out it it helps.

Don't leave the lights on 24/7 the plants need a dark period to grow. If it falls below about 70 then you will need to find a way to heat the water but above that you should be ok. Keep us updated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
A quick update and some material for discussion.


I've had some success with reviving the anubias, the have both grown new leaves and large roots are growing. I decided to give each plant it's own pot because the ludwigia was taking over. Substrate in these is a mixture of dried sphagnum moss, top soil, worm castings, and pearlite (~s.m.=20 %, t.s.=20%, w.c.=20%, p.=40%) with some taiwan moss on top. The pots also have holes drilled into the sides for better circulation.

it may sound funny considering it got me into this mess,but I actually dose hydrogen peroxide into the the water in the tank. Only one teaspoon for every gallon before lights out to help aerate the water and prevent root rot.
I also add all purpose 20-20-20 plant food from green light at about 1/4 tablespoon for each gallon of water. I add lower than the recommend dosage because when I added the full amount the ludwigia began to melt, perhaps because they were freshly planted which exposed stems?

An interesting thing I came across is the possible benefits of 'club soda' for plant growth which I think are very handy for emersed growth setups. I use Canada Dry club soda (sodium free and contains: potassium bicarbonate, potassium citrate and potassium sulfate) and put it in a spray bottle to mist the plants. I came across this post on Yahoo answers from a contributor called
Mark G which sums it up nicely:
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"Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
As stated soda water is mainly carbonated water.

BUT... depending upon the bottler Soda water may contain one or more of the following table salt, sodium citrate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, potassium citrate, potassium sulfate, or disodium phosphate. These are used to adjust the taste of Soda Water.

Potassium Sulfate is a fertilizer component. (Look up ferilizer N-P-K rating)

Sodium bicarbonate is amphoteric, reacting with acids and bases so this would act a a Ph buffer and will generally raise Ph

potassium bicarbonate has widespread use in crops, especially for neutralizing acidic soil, and is also under consideration as an organic fungicide

Nutirent uptake of plants is also effected by soil Ph. Nutrients can be locked in excessively acid or alkai soil. The club soda is acidic due to CO2 (carbonic acid) but as the CO2 is released the Ph rises. Also carbonic acid is neutralized by base minerals in the soil and may have disolved some of these minerals making them available to the root system.

Once the effects of carbonic acid disapate the other alkaline components added to the water remain and will buffer the soil Ph and provide potassium and phosphates. You may want to test the soil ph on all of your plants to see if there is any difference. Also look up the preferred soil Ph for the plant you are growing.

The plant may also benefit from the Carbon Dioxide
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Nitrogen:

essential for growth of foliage;
produces lush, tender, green leaves (or grass blades);
deficiency results in a yellow-green color (chlorosis) and little or no growth;
is easily flushed through the soil.

Phosphorous:
stimulates root growth;
hastens the maturity of plants;
promotes development of flowers, fruits, seeds;
deficiency can result in slow or stunted growth and purplish discoloration on leaves;
remains in the soil quite well.

Potassium:
gives vigor to tolerate changing weather conditions;
helps resist disease;
assists in the food manufacturing process;
strengthens cell wall structure for strong stems;
deficiency can cause week stems and slow growth;
leaches from the soil, not so fast as nitrogen.

3 years ago
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Asker's Rating:
5 out of 5
Asker's Comment:
Thanks for all the information-very informative!!!"

Link: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...3154158AAJDEvq
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Anyways, one of my anubias is doing great and the other was growing too but I did notice some dark reddish spots on the lower half of the rhizome which seemed to be slowly spreading to the growing side. The rhizome did feel firm on the dark spots but I noticed stunted root growth on that lower half. I did some research and believe the cause may be a fungus called 'Rhizoctonia solani'

I removed a large portion of the rhizome from the anubias and moved it about an inch away from the growing portion. I guess I hope it'll recover but leaving it could mean risking that the fungus spreads to the healthy portion. Will have to figure out what to do.



I decided to find out if my beloved 'club soda' might help since as quoted above, I found it contained potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3)which is being considered as an organic fungicide. So I found this article from the African Journal of Biotechnology which describes the effects of potassium bicarbonate (found also in club soda) on the the gorwoth of R. solani. To quote the article "This study demonstrated that different concentrations of potassium bicarbonate significantlyinhibited in vitro mycelial growth of R. solani".

Also found this interesting:

"Soil fungi are more active under acidic pH values (Ordonez et al., 2009). Previous studies showed that pH changes of medium due to use of bicarbonates prevented or stimulated the mycelial growth of fungi (Punja and Grogan 1982; Palmer et al., 1997). S. rolfsii showed optimal mycelial growth and sclerotial germination at low pH (3.0-5.5), while no growth occur above pH (8.0). Preventive effect of potassium bicarbonate on mycelial growth of soil pathogens may be partially explained by
pH changes, which became more alkaline as bicarbonate concentration increased. Our result showed that S. sclerotiorum could not grow at pH 8.3 (at 100mM KHCO3), and R. solani could not grow at pH 8.4 (at 750mM KHCO3). Increasing concentrations of KHCO3 caused growth reduction of both fungal strains."

(African Journal of Biotechnology Vol. 10(43), pp. 8605-8612, 10 August, 2011 ISSN 1684-5315 © 2011 Academic Journals, Full Length Research Paper, Evaluation of in vitro antifungal activity of potassium bicarbonate on Rhizoctonia solani AG 4 HG-I, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum and Trichoderma sp., at pp. 8611

Now, I read that that using a synthetic fungicide may not be the best solution for the plants, club soda is a source for potassium bicarbonate which is an organic funicide, is there some more effective source of potassium bicarbonate? Sodium bicarbonate was mentioned in the article too actually (dont think its in canada dry cub soda)... Will look into that later. For now I just poured decent amount of club soda in the pots and spray the plants with it every now and then,

I'm just sick of worrying about rhizome disease and am anxious to treat the affected rhizome and to prevent spread. I will likely not be able to find more anubias on the island where I live easlily. Any advice would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
just to quickly add a few thoughts, I think a number of factors contributed to the poor state of the anubias. first their rhizomes were buried under gravel at the pet store where I got them. Second the water here comes from a desalination plant and is very soft. finally the hydrogen peroxide dip probably nearly killed the already weak plants.

I saw a youtube video where a guy who had tons of anubias said that using reverse osmosis water melted his anubias.

I think that when my healthy one grows one or two new leaves I'll move it back into the the tank. Before I do I'm gonna add a tiny bit of seachem marine buffer to bring up my hardness.

in my last post I quoted the article from the African Journal of Biotechnology that there seems to a correlation between pH and the growth of R. Solani (which I suspect as a result of research, is the fungus responsible for some cases of rhizome rot). I think that if the pH is higher, it may suppress the growth of the fungus and promote the growth of the anubias (since Ive heard they naturally exist in harder water in Africa). I think I'll try and aim for a pH of ~7.8.

I've also switched the brand of club soda I'm using on the emersed setup to Seagram Club soda. It contains Potassium Bicarbonate as well as Magnesium Sulfate and Potassium Phosphate. Better IMO.

I also found out that you can obtain potassium bicarbonate from the ash of burnt shrubs, leaves and wood. You let the ash sit overnight in a container with water and you collect that water. Next you pour cold water over the ash again through a cotton sheet and collect that as well. Next you boil that down in a disposable pan and you can collect raw crystals.

I'm thinking adding ash to an emersed substrate could beneficial too!
 

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i think you're going a bit overboard with these anubias, but otherwise interesting analysis/experiment. however as stated anubias are just hardy and you're better off growing them underwater. you're misting your plants... so any amount of those "fertilizers" won't be fertilizing your plant. in emmersed form they feed from the roots. the fungicide property should be useful, but as for general water and chemicals you're using a whole lot don't you think?
 
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