In my case the scientific part is all that I am concerned withResults of spousal approval of using one's bathtub for such purposes may vary.Scientifically speaking, it will work.
In my case the scientific part is all that I am concerned withResults of spousal approval of using one's bathtub for such purposes may vary.Scientifically speaking, it will work.
Yes, that is true. It's such a bummer. It was and still is my favorite all time substrate choice.Aaron, your original post you were using 3M Colorquartz T-Grade Black Sand. I have found that this is no longer available? What are you using now a days?
So it is safe to assume that this is what you would use for your skirt before putting the slurry mixture in as well correct?Yes, that is true. It's such a bummer. It was and still is my favorite all time substrate choice.
I'm actually using Brightwell's cafe colored substrate right now. Our club did a group order and I wanted to try it out.
If I were to choose a cap for MTS now I would use Flourite Black. Not the sand, but the regular black one.
Yes, and that step is really only for aesthetic reasons.So it is safe to assume that this is what you would use for your skirt before putting the slurry mixture in as well correct?
Why cant the black flourite sand be used if this is "more aesthetically pleasing" to the hobbyist desiring to use the MTS method (i.e. me for the moment)? Or can it and you recommend not for a reason that has yet to be explained....Yes, and that step is really only for aesthetic reasons.
Are you using strictly Brightwell or did I misunderstand and you are still doing MTS and capping with Brightwell? Sorry for all the short lame questions. Just trying to make sure I know what I am doing before I shoot myself in the foot and loose a bunch of new plants.I'm actually using Brightwell's cafe colored substrate right now. Our club did a group order and I wanted to try it out.
If I were to choose a cap for MTS now I would use Flourite Black. Not the sand, but the regular black one.
It's pure Brightwell. Honestly, I'm wishing I had used MTS as the Crypts just don't do as well as I"m used to.Are you using strictly Brightwell or did I misunderstand and you are still doing MTS and capping with Brightwell? Sorry for all the short lame questions. Just trying to make sure I know what I am doing before I shoot myself in the foot and loose a bunch of new plants.
1. - I've never used it. You're looking for dirt, not loamy type soil.I am setting up my first dirted tank. And have a few questions, I have the mexican pottery clay needed. Although I could not find the Miracle gro organic "potting" soil. All I could find was the Miracle gro organic "top" soil.
Q1. After reading about some folks finding the top soil they purchased was not going to work I though I would ask if anyone has experience with this Miracle gro organic "top" soil?
Q2. Any thoughts on Azomite rock dust put down before the MTS?
Q3. In place of the Dolomite and Muriate of potash, would potassium carbonate and calcium carbonate work? I have both as a PH up for my aquaponics.
Q4. We have pretty hard water here, is there a large difference in GH/KH in the WC vs MTS/substrate? In other words would it be prudent to add the both K2CO3 and CaCO3?
Q5a. I make my own vermicompost "worm castings" they work wonders for the garden and potted plants. I have considered adding some to the PRE-minerlized topsoil, any thoughts on this? I feel as though it would leach out most of the nutrients.
Q5b. Adding fresh vermicompost (VC) to the POST-MTS. I have used both the fresh VC and aerated worm compost tea in the aquaponics with no adverse effect on the fish, the plants went bonkers, although it is a 200g tank.
This may have been the wrong place to post this but there some VERY knowledgeable people in this thread. Please point me to the correct place if needed.
Answering them slower than usual albeit....Aaron, you deserve some type of internet medal of honor. Here we are 7 years after you first started this thread, and you are still answering questions. This is a great resource!
As you know, I am a Walstad guy. I think mineralized topsoil is an essential enhancement to the Walstad method. My longest running tank is now 4 years old and showing some signs of potassium deficiency. Do you prefer to use KCl or K2SO4 in the water to correct this?
I wouldn't do it unless you are doing a black water biotope and want stained water.any thoughts on adding Humic Acid? I heard reference to it as a CEC. would it stain the water?