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I haven't made that conversion, but I did remove the solenoid from mine. Those parts are all screwed together, so it takes two wrenches to unscrew them, since a threat sealant is also used. You have to be a little careful or you could twist off the screwed in part, but that didn't happen to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't made that conversion, but I did remove the solenoid from mine. Those parts are all screwed together, so it takes two wrenches to unscrew them, since a threat sealant is also used. You have to be a little careful or you could twist off the screwed in part, but that didn't happen to me.
Thanks Hoppy. I tried the two wrenches still will not untighten. I guess I could try putting it in a vice grip.
 

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I'll be trying this too,
getting a manifold any day now. Please update as to your success (or lack of it-hopefully not).
thanks
 

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I actually successfully did this with my milwaukee regulator several days ago. It really is a pita to get off. I put the regulator in the vice, heated it up a little bit with a blow torch (not sure how much this actually helped), then put all my might into getting it to budge.

Once you get it off, the dual manifold is a pain to get on too (well, to not have it leak at least). You need to really get it on tight and still have the bubble counters facing up. Make sure you get some pipe dope to seal the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I actually successfully did this with my milwaukee regulator several days ago. It really is a pita to get off. I put the regulator in the vice, heated it up a little bit with a blow torch (not sure how much this actually helped), then put all my might into getting it to budge.

Once you get it off, the dual manifold is a pain to get on too (well, to not have it leak at least). You need to really get it on tight and still have the bubble counters facing up. Make sure you get some pipe dope to seal the threads.
Thanks for the info. The vice was my next move. What did you actually use to turn the existing needlevalve/bubblecounter. I feel the shape doesn't lend itself to a good gripe by a wrench or plyers.
 

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the needle valve should be grippable from the bottom. I had to replace mine and i was able to do it with the regulator on the tank and it seals fine. (i only did a new needle valve as my old was gunked up).

If you take channel locks and grip the sides of the needle valve there are 2 flat areas, The bite of the channel locks should go there. Make sure your twisting top to the left or your gonna work against yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the needle valve should be grippable from the bottom. I had to replace mine and i was able to do it with the regulator on the tank and it seals fine. (i only did a new needle valve as my old was gunked up).

If you take channel locks and grip the sides of the needle valve there are 2 flat areas, The bite of the channel locks should go there. Make sure your twisting top to the left or your gonna work against yourself.
Thanks got it! Actually once it moved a bit it came right off. Now I'll see if I can get this setup without leaks. Think a bit of teflon tape on the thread of the needlevalve would work?
 

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That is a bad place to use teflon tape. Tiny bits of the tape may get into the valve and partially plug the very, very smal opening that the CO2 goes through. It is much better to use pipe dope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That is a bad place to use teflon tape. Tiny bits of the tape may get into the valve and partially plug the very, very smal opening that the CO2 goes through. It is much better to use pipe dope.
Thanks hoppy. I'm gonna run out and get some of the dope. I don't want to have to do this more than once in case the tape doesn't work. After unscrewing the dual needlevalves (where the tubing goes) I notice there aren't any O-rings, so I'll have to go locate those as well.
 
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