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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This a project that I've been working on for several months. The idea was to build a bar furniture as a "stand" for an aquarium being this the central part to it and so I did. This journal may provide some ideas or clear some doubts to other projects.

So, Here we go. I started up getting the aquarium to be used; I was close to build one as I was having troubles to get what I was looking for a reasonable price. So finally I was able to get a 40 Gal All Glass Round Corner Aquarium with the exact Radius dimension (24") I was looking for to adapt it.

I started up the process determining dimensions to be taking by the aquarium and adapting this to the available space for the bar as this is a two level bar having an inner lower bar for preparations and the top serving bar area for guests. So after delivering with my self I started the project fixing the Aquarium base and wanted dimension for the L Shape Kegger Bar. so here are some pictures.

Aquarium Base Construction


Main Frame Assembly (My baby boy also enjoyed the process)




Complete Mainframe.
 

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I like! I might have had the tank sit a little higher, for viewing, but the idea of using the "lid" as a servery is quite cool. Great carpentry skills, mate, keep us posted!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I kept it lower mainly because of the inner bar. I think you will figure it out once I add some more picture, but I try to raise it as much as possible. I could've raised more, but that means level this area with the upper bar.

Well. Here are more pictures of the process

Inner cabinets for Kegarator and Aquarium equipment, both will share CO2 tank


Adding the corner walls and top bar support.


Adding top bar and framing to it.


Inner bar showing Beer tap place. you can notice here why I didnt place the aquarium higher than it is. Basically to have the inner bar all the way around.


Stain Job.
 

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This is still one of the most imaginative aquarium installations I have seen. And, the cabinetry is beautiful, too. I'm glad you put the pictures all together to show us how it was built. Do you have photos of the way it was plumbed in? And, how is it working now as an aquarium?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hoppy. Thank you. I will add more pictures of this tomorrow, as I need to load them in a site that I am having troubles to connect to from home. Plumbing was actually based in one of your designs combine with some other ideas for filter installation. I will place more pictures of the building process tomorrow.

I am still working at it as I am resolving some issues with heat diffusing for cabinet and aquarium but nothing that cant be resolve. This was a project that I was supported by several members of the forum with ideas to make it work and complete it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is the detail for plumbing. This is the left panel next to the aquarium. This is a simple version of Hoppycalif project that allows to Back Flush the filter, used the filter to pump out for water changes, refill the aquarium and even removing the filter without the need to prime it again once reconnected. I have found this plumbing very very usefull and making maintenance very easy. Now that I've been working with it for a while, if I was doing this again I will probably take two of these valves out, (Two Closer to input and output in the filter) the reason is that these have very low used as when you remove the filter the cup is also working as a valve and so these are not really needed unless you are going to clean up connections. I also added Quick conectors to the purging points that are going to be shown in other picture


I also build up some wood caps for the valves, to make them look better once the cover panel was installed. Basically this are two sections of plywood joint by another two small sections of plywood and these stay fix to the valves.


Once joint


And this is the way they look installed.


Now adding the cover and bingo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Here is a picture of the cabinet with the CO2 system already installed and one of the quick disconnect to the purge (Orange). The CO2 is share by the aquarium and the Kegarator system using a Y Split as the pressure used for both require about 10-20psi so there is no need for a second regulator.



Here is a shot of the upper panel for the aquarium that is removable to access to it. I am using 2 spiral bulbs for it that work good but they generate good heat within the enclosure that I am working on to dissipate as into implement a couple of reflector to them. you can also notice a couple of night led lights that I found work great as night spots for the aquarium.



Here is a picture of the led lights.



Here is a picture of the inner bar covered.



Here is the picture of the aquarium in night mode. My camara isnt the best for night shot :) but I tried to got something on it. It really looks very very nice at full darkness.



And here is a picture of the aquarium at day. The back was black painted for reflection to produce an "Island" Efect when you look at it standing up.



The Full bar picture already done.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
There is still one issue that I am working on, and this is related with the heat generated by the fridge working for the Keg. For one side, it is good as it expand the gas in the tank, but its accumulation is also raising the temperature within the aquarium. Here in the picture you can notice the Heat diffuser of the frigde to the left (Black Grid). So what I am planning to do is to install a vent in the upper bar and the door for this cabinet will be a vent too. I May add a fan if it is needed. I am also planning to add some insulation to the piping wall of the aquarium to avoid heat transfer to it and implement another vent for it.

Another idea that I am analyzing is to add a fan into the other wall of the aquarium (Opposite Pannel) to blow air into it a have a vent the opposite side. Anyway, this is still a problem that I need to resolve for the aquarium.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks Bigstick.

You are right, the inner level of the counter come out. I dont a have picture showing this but if you look here there is a black tap right in the corner, you pull this up to revome the cover.

 

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Abso-frickin-lutely fantastic!!! So much to love about this setup. I do see now why the tank sits where it does, you've obviously spent a long time designing and planning this build. Flawless, perfect. Something to be truly proud of. Love it!!
 

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I have one suggestion: For a 40 gallon tank, as deep as that one is I don't believe the screw-in fluorescent bulbs will ever provide enough light for plants to grow, not even low light plants. You could replace that light arrangement with something like a AH Supply 55 watt kit, and have low light, or two of them for high light, if you want that. Those lights produce quite a bit of heat too, so ventilating the area will be useful.
 

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Wow, this is one of the coolest, well-built DIY projects that I've seen in a while. I'm looking forward to seeing it progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ghengis:
Thank you very much for your comments. I really spend lots of time on this project.

Jason:
Thanks for your comments. Really appreciate it. Taking the chance I like to say that I really like you job in aquascapes you have a great website. Thanks for your compliments.

Hoppy:
I think you are right. I have only these two spirals that actually consume 26W each so I barely have 1. something W/Gal. even when it does iluminated the tank really good, I am too low in wattage for this tank. it is about 18" waterline to bottom. But I also have the issue of space and wanted to keep clear the access for maintenance, so my decision was for these lamps, however, I lost plants already that I tried to add into the scape (Bacopa Australis to mention one). I am planning to build reflectores similar to AH for these bulbs and I was thinking to add two more like these, but the issue of heat transfer is holding me back until I resolve this first.
 
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