[Manwithnofish]

From my post on a different forum it was suggested that the increased acidity my be reacting with my river rocks to increase the kH. Most logical explaination thus far, but as long as I'm doing 50+% wc weekly it shouldn't become an issue.

Latte, before I started using ferts and CO2, I only ran 2 of the 4 39w T5-HOs and I was somewhat successful. This covered from Feb. to about early Oct. Plants grew very well, but I was constantly having reoccuring bouts with algae. I had already purchase my CO2 equipment back in the spring but it took me 6 months to find a supplier who would fill MY tank (most wanted to swap tanks like propane dealers). My first attempt with the CO2 and ferts was disasterous for several reasons. Primary among those were, lack of circulation, inconsist dosing of both CO2 and ferts. I didn't initially have the correct check valve or a bubble counter and so I didn't know how much CO2 I was injecting. Now I have the right equipment and feel much better about that. I've also changed the fert scheme just a little, cutting it back somewhat from the EI plan. I think I'm getting better results.

As for our similarities, I think we have some striking differences right now. The amount of filter/flow and the light being the two biggest, along with the water change amounts.

As for the algae eaters, they are no match for the amount of algae I have had to battle. I have added 4 Corys recently and I think they are helping get excess food off the bottom. I had an algae growing on the substrate like grass and spreading throughout the entire tank. I removed almost all of that manually. If I could find a living creature that could eat that much algae it would be like "shock & aw" in the fish kingdom. ound:

It seems that my situation has improved or atleast stablized for now. My next thoughts are that I would like to get the AquaMedic 500 reactor out of the tank and replace it with the Rex G. DIY model. Along with that, I want to get the heater out of the tank and replace it with the inline heater. Both of these would be done in conjunction with adding another filter to drive them. Not sure if I'm ready for this yet, as I don't know how to size the filter to drive the CO2 reactor. At any rate, I think the additional filter will go a long way toward helping as well. I'm just not sure if I will do any of this yet though.

 

[latte hiatus]

From my post on a different forum it was suggested that the increased acidity my be reacting with my river rocks to increase the kH. Most logical explaination thus far, but as long as I'm doing 50+% wc weekly it shouldn't become an issue.

Ah, I must have missed any references to the river rocks in previous posts. Have you tested the rocks with vinegar? If they are indeed increasing your KH, they may not be suitable in the long run... It's like having a calcium reactor in your tank.

Latte, before I started using ferts and CO2, I only ran 2 of the 4 39w T5-HOs and I was somewhat successful. This covered from Feb. to about early Oct. Plants grew very well, but I was constantly having reoccuring bouts with algae. I had already purchase my CO2 equipment back in the spring but it took me 6 months to find a supplier who would fill MY tank (most wanted to swap tanks like propane dealers). My first attempt with the CO2 and ferts was disasterous for several reasons. Primary among those were, lack of circulation, inconsist dosing of both CO2 and ferts. I didn't initially have the correct check valve or a bubble counter and so I didn't know how much CO2 I was injecting. Now I have the right equipment and feel much better about that. I've also changed the fert scheme just a little, cutting it back somewhat from the EI plan. I think I'm getting better results.

Consistency in the long run certainly won't hurt - glad to hear things are improving!

As for our similarities, I think we have some striking differences right now. The amount of filter/flow and the light being the two biggest, along with the water change amounts.

As for the algae eaters, they are no match for the amount of algae I have had to battle. I have added 4 Corys recently and I think they are helping get excess food off the bottom. I had an algae growing on the substrate like grass and spreading throughout the entire tank. I removed almost all of that manually. If I could find a living creature that could eat that much algae it would be like "shock & aw" in the fish kingdom. ound:

If you've got so much algae you'd need an unholy army of algae eaters to chow down, I completely agree that manual removal and other methods of algae eradication are necessary. Once the algae has been removed, you need an algae squad for PREVENTATIVE maintenance, scrubbing available surfaces to ensure that algae doesn't have an opportunity to take hold. As you're already aware, algae is and will continue to be a part of your aquarium - you won't ever be completely rid of all algae, so the algae eaters will keep algae in check at the minimum threshold. Algae will still be present, but you won't see them. AFAIK, Corys are scavengers, and will only nibble on algae if they are starving. I recommend SAEs and Otos, as well as cherry and/or Amano shrimp if they are compatible with your fishes.

It seems that my situation has improved or atleast stablized for now. My next thoughts are that I would like to get the AquaMedic 500 reactor out of the tank and replace it with the Rex G. DIY model. Along with that, I want to get the heater out of the tank and replace it with the inline heater. Both of these would be done in conjunction with adding another filter to drive them. Not sure if I'm ready for this yet, as I don't know how to size the filter to drive the CO2 reactor. At any rate, I think the additional filter will go a long way toward helping as well. I'm just not sure if I will do any of this yet though.

There will be disagreement from others, but I personally believe mechanical filtration is highly overrated in a densely planted tank. Since chemical filtration is kept to a minimum, and biological filtration is also provided for by the plants/substrate, it seems unnecessary to add another filter. The primary reason I have a canister filter instead of just a powerhead is because I want to have the capability to add Purigen and (previously) peat or crushed coral without having them in the tank - asthetic reasons. Similarly, an in-line heater and CO2 reactor wouldn't perform any better than properly set-up in-tank versions, but having them out of the tank provides a much cleaner look. That said, I'm also planning to put together a DIY CO2 reactor and in-line heater combo that incorporates aspects of Rex Griegg's and various DIY forum designs, so maybe we should get together and compare notes.

 

[Manwithnofish]

I have a large SAE and ottos, but again they don't stand a chance against all the algae that I get when everything gets out of balance and BOOM...it's so much algae, it scares the ****ens out of my algae eaters.

But....I'm not having that problem. Things are looking very positive. Now I just have to figure out how to control these out-of-control plants that are growing inches/day. My Cabomba furcata has shot to the top of the tank and become a stem with no leaves except one head on the top.

Still undecided about the DIY external CO2 reactor and inline heater. Scares me to have cut tubing junctions outside the tank as potential sources of major tank drainage. If the tubing came loose from the inline heater or the CO2 reactor, it would ciphen the tank dry. The damage to the house flooring system would be a major disaster. If I came home one day and found water everywhere, that would be the end of me ever having aquariums.

Just read a thread that says a lot of negative feedback received about Hydor inline heaters....think I'll stick with in the tank Stealth.

 

[Manwithnofish]

What's happening now? Replaced my Zeo-Carb filter bags in the Fluval. Reduced the ferts (KNO3 & KH2PO4) a smidgen. Stopped the Plantex and went with the Flourish.

Notice that the Algae is making a come back. Mostly growing as thick tuffs (like grass) on the substrate. Plants are so dense, it's difficult to clean food from the root/base of plants.

Some current pictures....

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii288/manwithnofish/IMG_0321.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii288/manwithnofish/IMG_0323.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii288/manwithnofish/IMG_0325.jpg

 

[Bert H]

It appears your plants are healthy. Is the algae you're currently seeing bba? If so, keep in mind the importance of maintaining a good steady level of CO2.

As I mentioned to you in an earlier post, those of us with hard water definitely have it a little harder in the algae control department. If I don't keep algae eaters in the tanks, I will see some filamentous algae form. You just learn to live within the limitations. It sounds like your plants are growing gangbusters, so you're essentially there.

 

[latte hiatus]

Still undecided about the DIY external CO2 reactor and inline heater. Scares me to have cut tubing junctions outside the tank as potential sources of major tank drainage. If the tubing came loose from the inline heater or the CO2 reactor, it would ciphen the tank dry. The damage to the house flooring system would be a major disaster. If I came home one day and found water everywhere, that would be the end of me ever having aquariums.

Just read a thread that says a lot of negative feedback received about Hydor inline heaters....think I'll stick with in the tank Stealth.

I just finished up a DIY CO2 reactor/inline heater over the weekend. After putting it together with PVC cement, I let it cure for a day and ran about 20 gallons of water through it to flush out any remaining solvent. It's running on the output side of my Eheim 2236. I was in a hurry, so it's not pretty - I originally intended to use clear PVC, butthe acrylic tubes available at my local TAP Plastics weren't compatible with the fittings. It was very nice to get the heater and CO2 diffuser out of the tank, and I believe that the reactor is more efficient at dissolving CO2 than the Hagen Elite Mini filter I was using before, since I'm using the same injection rate and the drop checker is slightly more yellowish. The only problem I'm having is that the heater doesn't seem to like being in the position I placed it in - my temperature has gone up by 3 F, and I've had to dial it back quite a bit. It may just require a little fiddling.

Leaks aren't really an issue if you take your time and make sure all the connections are solid, using slip joints with PVC primer/cement whenever possible, lots of teflon tape for threaded connectors, and worm-drive hose clamps for barbs.

The design I used was lifted from AndrewH:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/36257-diy-external-heater-56k-4.html#post528393
The only modifications I made was that instead of the Y at the top for the CO2 barb, I did it the Rex Grigg way and drilled a drill to pull the CO2 tubing through. All the parts were readily available at my local Lowes. The employee in plumbing who helped me cut the 2" PVC pipe into two pieces for transport happened to be into freshwater aquariums, and ended up chatting with him for an hour. The home improvement stores sure have a lot less business these days than they used to.

 

[latte hiatus]

What's happening now? Replaced my Zeo-Carb filter bags in the Fluval. Reduced the ferts (KNO3 & KH2PO4) a smidgen. Stopped the Plantex and went with the Flourish.

Notice that the Algae is making a come back. Mostly growing as thick tuffs (like grass) on the substrate. Plants are so dense, it's difficult to clean food from the root/base of plants.

I've seen the case made for using GAC in the planted aquarium, but IMHO, it just removes trace elements and nutrients that your plants need. It's possible that the Zeo-Carb is making it difficult for your plants to compete, allowing for the algae to make a comeback? Give Purigen a try if you want crystal clear water - I used to be a skeptic, but am now a convert.