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Hello,
Im very new to this PlantedAquaria and the FORUM. Some basic queries i need to clear.

I would like to know this basic thing from all the experts here that when we follow some rule of wpg. in low tech / low light tank,
1)do we need to follow any rule abt how many plants can a tank house.(plants per sq ft)
2)do no of plants affect growth regarding light factor ? (wpg)
3) do no of plants in low light tanks affect algae growth? i.e 1.2-2 wpg (low light) tank(10g) with just few say 4-5 plants and same tank with lots of plants ?

the next about CO2 tank..
4)When heavy planted tanks run on CO2 and HIGH lights,people dont use ANUBIAS and such Low Lights plants atall ?

regards..

niroo
 

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Hey Niroo, first off, welcome to apc.

There is no rule about how many plants one can or can't have in a tank. Basically plants require certain things to grow healthy, and if one provides them, the plants will grow. Their growth rates will vary according to various factors, with lighting being the major one, imo. Here's a real good article which you might find helpful.

The wpg 'rule' doesn't hold up in smaller tanks (10gal and under). If you stop to think about it, a 15W bulb is not a whole lot of energy. So while a 15W bulb on a 10 gal tank would give you 1.5 wpg, it's really very low lighting. Whereas if you were to put 150W over a 100gal tank, it's still 1.5wpg, but in terms of absolute energy, it's much more.

With proper conditions, there is no reason one can't grow 'low light' plants in a high tech tank.

Here's a couple more references you might find helpful:

http://www.rexgrigg.com/
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ums/14684-new-tank-setup-guide-parts-1-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanx Bert H
That was very nice info.10 g was just an eg i asked. Actually i was trying my hand on 29g aqua(30x15x15) so was asking abt.
Most imp abt algae control in Low Light tanks..Scrubbing and Algae eating fish is the only answer?

thanx
 

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Algae control in low-light tanks can be accomplished with lots of plants (heavily planted) that don't need high light and careful fertilization (or no ferts at all if you don't need them) . Most, if not all, new tanks will go through a beginning phase where algae outbreaks are normal.

-Dave
 

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I've pretty much taken Tom Barr's advice as listed here for non-CO2 tanks:

http://www.barrreport.com/articles/433-non-co2-methods.html

My setup is a 75 gal w/ a 2 bulb Tek system with a Giesemann daylight and UV 10K. I dose KNO3 & KH2PO4 in about 1/8 tsp every week or so. I use Seachem Flourish for trace maybe once a month. Root tabs under the root feeders from Orlando at Green Leaf.

I do water changes MAYBE once a month of about 10 gal just for peace of mind. My tank used to be moderately planted, now its fairly lightly planted in my estimation. I add Seachem's recommended dose of excel every other day and top off 1 gal of tap water every day. My water is high pH and very hard. Using Seachem Grey Coast Calcite for substrate. Plant list includes a stand of val nana and a couple anubias plants. Some cryptocorynes as well.

Filtration is 2 Marineland C220 + an Aquaclear 70 running my aquaclear surface skimmer. All filters are packed w/ sponges and ceramic bio-media. I used to use purigen but now no chemical filtration is used. All filters are cleaned every 3 months.

I noticed when I initially started that I would have problems w/ BBA & thread algae. Considering I was only running like 1.3 wpg I was a little confused. I realized that it was most likely the intensity of light that I was getting as my teks were only a couple inches off the surface. They are now raised approx 10 inches off the tank surface and my algae issues are much easier. Thread algae is pretty much gone. BBA is still there but grows so slowly that I'm able to stay on top of it by spending a couple minutes pulling it off rocks with tweezers and trimming affected leaves. I spend maybe 5 minutes a week on algae maintenance. I wipe the inside of the tank w/ a scrubber maybe once every 3 weeks or so. Overall, the tank is very low maintenance which is what I like.

Current stock list is 3 otocinclus, 15 glowlight tetras and 4 peppered cories. I feed approx 5 times a week and don't overfeed too much. I have many many snails (MTS & orange/red ramshorns) and they, along with the cories and otos are pretty good about keeping algae and leftover food at bay.

The biggest thing for me was controlling light intensity. T5s w/ reflectors give out A LOT of light and that needs to be controlled in order to minimize algae issues IMO.

Charlie
 

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Ive seen everything from 3K to 12K used in planted tanks. There are a couple of things to consider:

1 - One manufacturer's 10K is not another manufacturer's 10K. Two 10K bulbs won't necessarily look the same to the eye. I think its important to look at the light spectrum of the particular bulb you're using and take it from there. Make sure the bulbs are providing energy in the spectrums you're looking for. My bulbs give me a lot of lighting in the blue spectrum, moderate in the green and not a lot in the red. However, this brings me to my 2nd point.

2 - Lighting requirements for plants are generally pretty moderate and most plants will be able to utilize most of what you throw at them. Thus the next consideration would be what is pleasing to your eye. Most of us enjoy planted tanks for how they look. While we may be able to grow nice plants with crazy red/blue spectrum bulbs, most of us wouldn't appreciate how a grow only system like that would look in the living room. You look at your tank everyday so it should be set up to be nice to look at.

As far as T-4s, I've never really seen them used. The smallest I've seen commonly used in aquaria is T-5. The smaller the lamp, however, the better the reflector you can use which means more light at lower wattage.

Charlie
 
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