[wet]

unless you are moderately planted with like an H. ploysperma or H. difformis or someother super fast grower you trim all the time, 4wpg over 60 gallons needs a heavily planted tank, even with a limited photoperiod.

regardless, it is hard to believe such a tank would have P and N available from bioload and feeding alone. what everyone should notice is every single succesfull method or comercial product has N addition when there is CO2 addition, including PMDD and older school methods, and the best (modern) methods meet all macros and traces are available. unless you are using mineralized soil or new (leeching) aquasoil, I call bs on the test and think you are clearly P and N limited, despite what you describe as currently good plant health.

fwiw, of course.

 

[wet]

not to be a stick in the mud, but high light and c injection without n and p addition is neither ei nor pps, the two most succesfull general guidelines in the hobby.


barr and others revert to everything being c because it is the largest macro. this is smart. but n is your second biggest. berts advice and Edward/pps guides are excellent for calibrating when depending on a kit.

if your n is in your opinion too high at the end of the week, you could lower the n dose, but if doing ei, this is what the water change is for. typical ei maintains around 20ppm n. keep in mind dosing n without p and k is as silly as injecting c without n, of course.

but as said if your plants are pimp your dosing is too. without pics and with this thread I am just willing to bet that's not true <3