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Gomer said:
I want to use a single 5lb CO2 cylinder for both an inline reactor on my 30g and a atomizer on my 10g.

The atomizer is run at high pressure (ie, no bubble counter) and the inline is at low pressure.

I will be getting all my stuff from www.aquatic-store.com.

I called up milwaukee (as I was considering theirs) and was told that the regulator, solinoid and bubble counter used epoxy in the threads and you couldn't take it appart.

Can anyone think of a creative way to run a high and low pressure setup with parts at www.aquatic-store.com ?

Thanks!
Although the Milwaukee is expoxied, it can be taken apart, however, just like the JBJ models it's a struggle and it may void the warranty. The JBJ we have was definitely expoxied as well. The use of a 40 watt soldering iron right at the joint for a few seconds will help, just don't let it get the solenoid or regulator too hot, and it's easier if you take the gauges off and clamp the regulator body in a vise (use plastic strips to keep from marring the body).
 
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Take apart the JBJ regulator and see how fast your warranty is void.

The problem with using the inline model is that your still putting it after the solenoid valve aren't you? That means all tanks are on or off. I would suggest going with a generic regulator if you're not keen on taling apart the plumbing on the JBJ or Milwaukee and plumb it as needed for the application.
 
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Gomer said:
No issues with putting the JBJ manifold on the JBJ regulator. JBJ rep even walked me through the installation since I wasn't sure about the solinoid getting in the way of installation (which niftly ..my new word;)...rotates 90°)
Are we talking installation before or after the solenoid?

According to the people I talked to, namely the JBJ dealer I purchased mine from, if I remove the solenoid (which I did to install some nipples and tee's so I could tap off before the solenoid) the warranty is void. Bit like the previous poster said, it's only a six month warranty so big deal.
 
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They most likely don't recommend it be done due to the difficulty of removing the fitting from the regulator, they're expoxied in and it takes a bit of careful work to remove them, but I have the Milwaukee and JBJ and both were a royal pain to disassemble, the JBJ I have appeared to be epoxied in as well.

The inline option posted by Robert would seem to be a decent alternative in this case.
 
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Robert Hudson said:
Yeah, but Troy, (is that your name? Common man, use your name for crying out loud!) on the other hand, I do not quite trust Bryan's (of Milwaukee) knowledge or judgement in this area. Epoxy? What does that mean? Every regulator has a needle valve that is fixed with some kind of sealant. Removing it should not be any big deal. I could be wrong, but I can't really see how the Milwaukee should be any different. Milwaukee does not make any manifold. The big difference between them is that the JBJ has a fixed working pressure.
The "epoxy" actually appears to be more of some type of "locktite" compound, it really doesn't give easily without a little heat like locktite. But then my JBJ was a bear to wrench apart as well, and it defintiely had a similar substance on it. The heat just softens it a bit and with a 40 watt iron, the heats focused on the joint.

And yes, it's Troy, and I don't see where I can change my user name to common man :?

The biggest problem I have with the JBJ IS that it's a fixed pressure, I want to be able to adjust it, and the one I have reads 50 PSI line pressure, what am I doing with it, inflating tires? I tried to tap off of it with Class A 68PSI tubing with the needle valve by a the tank and it blew it right off the fitting. I'm sure that's atypical of the JBJ line but it's also a matter of personal choice as to whether or not adjustable pressure is neccessary.

Milwaukee doesn't make a manifold to be certain, but myself, I'd rather make the thing I need which really isn't all that hard, or there are more than a few aftermarket options, like your inline manifold which incidentally I steered a potential customer to the other day. I just went to Lowe's bought about $6.00 worth of brass fittings, got a few Clippard valves from a wholeslaer and built exactly what I needed. I've even had good success with a $3.00 needle valve from Lowe's, all it took was the ability to set the line pressure to suit the valve for consistent bubble rate.
 
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The safest way to take your assembly apart is to remove the gauges first, then you can clamp the regulator body in something while you disassemble the plumbing. The key since the fittings are brass is to use the right size wrenches otherwise you stand a good chance of just rounding off the fittings. As I suggested earlier, a bit of heat from a soldering iron helps a great deal as long as your careful with it.

Personally, if I were to do one now, the inline manifold Robert has looks very attractive for the money, and even the 3 way he has could be used in line since it appears to have compression fittings on it that would accept tuning. For the money it seems to be a great value.
 
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