Aquatic Plant Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,453 Posts
Re: Method of controlled imbalances and gda...

Very interesting stuff, Christian. Some questions and comments for you.

So if I understand you correctly, you are espousing doing a major water change on the tank, then adding only nitrates daily during the week until you see the appearance of green dust algae (gda) on the glass. At that point you say you know how much NO3 your tank needs for a week.

Let me use an example of my 10 gallon tank (which has been ignored and I have a near algae farm on now). Let's say, after a major water change and clean out, I would then add 0.2g of NO3 to the tank per day. No other macros or micros at all? If after 3 days, I start to see the appearance of gda on the glass, I will know that my tank's needs are approximately 0.6g of NO3 for the week (assuming I do my 50% water change at week's end). At that point, then I could dose 0.3g at water change, and a second 0.3g midweek to meet the tank's needs, correct? If by chance, I cannot do a water change for 2 weeks (vacation or life getting in the way), then I would add 0.3g of NO3 every 3 days or so, correct? I did read in your reference Spanish thread that you recommend dosing 3x/week - is this a must or can it be modified as needed?

More to follow on another thread...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,453 Posts
Re: Method of controlled imbalances and gda...

...continuing...

The 10 gallon tank I refer to on the above thread is an 'experimental tank' for me, run on city water which I obtain from a friend, as I have well water at the house. My other two tanks, both 50 gallons, are run on my house water.

Being on well water from a limestone aquifer, means I have high kh and gh, mostly from calcium carbonate. My water does not have NO3 or PO4 which I can measure. According to your proposals, high Ca is a problem. This is a 'problem' I cannot do away with, as I have no plans nor desire to purchase an RO unit. I deal with this issue by adding Mg to my tanks twice a week. I have learned that certain plants just will not thrive in my water, and others are marginal, with a little tinkering in my part, ie addition of Mg.

To get away from algae issues temporarily, how do you deal with stunting issues on plants? If I don't add Mg to my tanks, several plants (Rotalas, Proserpinaca) will stunt considerably on me. As it is, I still get a little stunting on certain plants, but it is much less with the Mg addition.

In addition to the above, I have always found that I could not run a 'lean' tank with my water. Nutrient uptake/requirements are different with hard water as opposed to soft(er) waters. Any comments you'd like to direct to that? Or can you direct me to any portions of your Spanish threads which deal with this (I speak Spanish also).

Interesting stuff...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,453 Posts
Re: Method of controlled imbalances and gda...

Until GSA is reached not GDA. This will eliminate GDA then you do the same with phosphate dosing for dealing with the GSA.
I thought the main reference was to GDA and NO3 uptakes. I thought a similar approach was used for GSA with PO4 - adding PO4 until GSA was gone. :confused:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,453 Posts
Re: Method of controlled imbalances and gda...

Let me see if I have this straight, add NO3 daily until you start seeing green SPOT algae. This will be the measure of NO3 needed to stop green DUST algae?
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top