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Love discussion going on here since I'm having same problem. I've go ridd of most GDA but then brown alge showed up and some either GDA or GSA is on the leaves of my plants..
Also, I have wild angels in my 120gal and I'm trying to keep TDS around 80. Since I started NO3 protocol this think went right over 220.. It must be because of NO3, correct?
I find if I dose Seachem Nitrogen that it doesn't add any or if very little to TDS.
Is it normal for TDS to go up with NO3 protocol?

Thanks,

Slobodan
 

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Hi everyone,

I'm hopping to get some help here as I've been fighting algae in my tanks since I set it up last October.
This method MCI has improved it a bit and I thank Christian and everyone else here for that.
Here is what I'm fighting right now:

Tank specs:
120gal - 60in x 18in x 22in
Ligth: 2 x 250W Metal Halides - 6700K
Substrate: 12mm (1/2")of garden soil topped with 70mm (2.5in) of playsand
Water: RO, TDS 150 ( i guess it gets some from sand and ferts, RO TDS is 1)
N03 - 20ppm , P03 - 0.5ppm, Ca ~ 20ppm, FE > 0.1ppm
CO2: pressurized

Now to describe what I'm having right now here are picture:

My mess:







It's not like plants are not periling but alges are as well... :(














At this point I'm desperate and have no idea what to do..

I did KNO3 protocol and I do get GSA.. I add some PO3 and GSA disappears but GDA stays no the glass. You can see it that there is much more GDA where light pendant is closer to the water (stronger light).
I did have what I think was blue/green algae, I used that Blue/Green remover medication and looks like it's not there anymore or is that pearling mess on my sand still Blue/green algae???
Aquarium look pathetic at this point and I'm not sure what to try next. As I said, I've been working on it since last October, is not like I didn't try.

Thanks in advance..
 

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I just did 20 gal water change and I think that mulm at the bottom is Blue/Green algae.
I did blackout for three days 3 times so far. It does disappear but comes back after couple of weeks.
I'm looking for erythromycin right now, it looks like it's only option..
I think I forgot to mention that I also have 25W UV light as well which is on 24/7.
 

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Thanks for reply farrenator..
My lights are on and off during the day, It's like this:

Righ Light ON @ 12:00
Left Light ON @ 14:00
Left Light OFF @ 16:00
Left Light ON @ 17:55
Right Light OFF @ 18:00
Left Light OFF @ 22:00

I did try that too. About a month ago I had all lights off for a week. I didn't cover it to be pitch black but off never the less.. it subdued a bit but was back in no time..
I'm really desperate and there doesn't seem to be much help..
 

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I have quick question, is it possible that R/O water that went through R/O filter (of course :)) with DI unit contains any kind of organic nutrients, traces, phosphates, nitrites etc. ???
When I measure TDS it's 1ppm..
I think not but want to confirm.
 

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Thanks JeffyFunk..
I understand that. I was just trying to get my head around how to get rid of this blue/green algae and was wondering may be it's my water which is 100% R/O..
 

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I tried this method and been using it for awhile right now.. it works... it took me awhile to get hang of it but at the end worked..
What I found in all these years is that as important CO2 is so it's O2.. good bacteria requires O2 to be able to convert nutrients.. let your spray bar splash and agitate surface.. you will not loose that much of CO2.. and it will make world of difference... plants can't produce enough O2 to compensate for injected CO2.




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Ronaldo, regardless which one it is I would start doing water changes and add KNO3 only..
I would replace 100% of water once a week.. it all depends on how big your tank is..
Also, i can't see if you have anything agitate the surface.. you need to have oxygen... There are very few alges that thrive in well oxygenated water.
I think it's more important for you as it looks like new setup.

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