Re: Maracyn/gda experiment...
I do realize you want use to dose KNO3 to a point a which green spot algae is the only one left. Is this correct? What then?
The main idea is that when you reach the GSA other algae die or stop bloom. If you see, there are several pictures with the most common algae, there are specific protocols to deal with them with the "generic Kno3 protocol" we are talking about.
In the beginning of your article you say "....seen throughout this work does not recommend the use of potassium sulphate....". However, a few pages in to the article you say "With regard to potassium, all indicate that this has an important role in halting the progression of sevral types of algae". and "....one could argue in principle that the use of potassium in the .....is one of the key variables, or to avoid an explosion of algae or to control them. Potassium is an alkali earth metal and this could be why EI dosing works (for most) as there is so much K2SO4 that the algae cant survive as little is consumed by the plants and a 50% water change will not flush out enough to prevent the levels from continuing to rise over time.?
In this thread I debate with Barr about it:
http://www.drpez.net/panel/showthread.php?t=307546&page=2&pp=25
When I mention potassium I don't mean potassium sulphate. You know, salts always have a partner: sulfate, chloridre, etc. I think that the best is to add two good ones instead of sulfate. Some friend from Chile use potasa 15-0-15 and works great!!
It's not a matter of high dosis, I believe that using the Kno3 protocol you can reach the real consumption of your aquarium and avoid algae bloom and have exccelente plant growth rate.
I really want to try your suggestions but it would be helpful to have a better guide, or is it as simple as dosing KNO3 at 1 gram per 200 liters three events per week. This equates only ~3 ppm per event.
This is a missunderstanding. The main idea behing the MDC is that rules like 10.1.15 doens't work. So I propose to use the generic protocol of Kno3 to induce gsa (algae control) and like a way to find the real consumption of your aquarium (fertilizing). You can read a lot about it in the debate with Barr. I suggest this very low doze like a start point (I really believe about to make everything simple for begginers). The idea is that all aquariums have different consumptions and differents balances. For example, if you have a carpet of marsilea crenata you will need to add a lot of Po4 in order to avoid gsa. If your carpet is a glosso one, then your aquarium will need a lot of Kno3 But, when you know exactly the consumption, then, plant are properly fertilized and if you test your water the No3 should be under 5 ppm.
Lastly, when talking about the amount of light per liter are you simply taking the given tank size or the volume of water actually subjected to the light. For instance, I have a 75 gallon tank BUT this is when measured on the outside. Once it has substrate and decorations in it the actual water is about 60 gals that has light on it. Several gallons are in the substrate and do not recieve light and the glass is 1/2 inch thick, etc.
I think that the approach about light should be understandable even for begginers. Usually it became too complex. The watt/liter rule is simple to understand and there is a convention about to use the raw litters or gallons.
My idea behind this is to use the plants as the aquarium filter, but I need at least 4 watts/gallon to have the plants filtering the aquarium properly. Esencially I have in mind plants like glosso, marsilea crenata, etc, I mean, the plants you are going to use to make a carpet.
Diana Wastald had a huge influence some years ago at spanish speaking forums and we had to work a lot to convice people to use some more light.
Somethin secundary, not important, that has a relationship with the principal thing but not important. I talk about when you have red algae and people says thay the cause is too long light period or that the filter is too strong, etc.
Are the plants that makes a carpet, like glosso, HC, eleocharis, etc.
- Acuarismo ( I think it means the aquarium hobby)
Yes
- Sales (this seemed to be used in a couple/few different ways)
Means salt but I use to describe any fertilizer without chelate. There I criticize a group of argentina who prepared at home micros fertilazers without chelate but I don't mention them because is unpolite.
- GAP - green algae point o.r what you mean by point
mmmmm, should be GSA, green spot algae.
It is a typing mistake, is "siguientes" and means "followings"
Please notice that the article continues below after Dorje comments. The MDC began as a debate and grew a lot from the feedback but we kept it as a thread, for this reason you will finde that there are some people answers in between.
The MDC finishes with this footnote:
"7. Sorín, Raúl, Tomo I, Instalación y Mantenimiento de acuarios, 1986, ed. Albatros, Bs. As. Argentina, p. 125 y ss."
You can have some more explaining info about the MDC in this interview:
http://acuariorosa.blogspot.com/2009/04/entrevista-christian-rubilar.html
I apologize if I didn't explain my self properly.
Regards
