Received following question (see below) from R. about mineralizing soil:
"I am planning a 20 gallon planted tank using soil in the future, potentially several months from now. Would it be safe to put the necessary potting soil into a bucket with water now, so that the chemical "chaos" is finished by the time I set up the tank later this year?"
The main problem I see with mineralizing soil beforehand: An organic soil put into a bucket (thick layer several inches thick), will go through prolonged anaerobic decomposition, generating copious fermentation products (e.g., acetic acid). If levels are high enough, they could inhibit plant growth when the soil is put into the tank.
In my procedure, the mineralizing is done in the tank itself. Advantages are that with the plants, water movement, and a shallow soil layer, the soil should stay relatively aerobic. The other thing is that the soil decomposition takes a couple weeks to really crank up and create chaos (my book, Fig VIII-6 on page 131). If the hobbyist has set up tank with ENOUGH good rooted plants, the plants should be able to establish themselves beforehand and counteract the increasing chaos due to bacterial decomposition. (However, so many hobbyists skimp on plants and/or use non-competitive ones.
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That said, mineralizing soil beforehand is a credible method. Our esteemed moderator Michael has set up many successful tanks with soil that he mineralized beforehand. It works well for him and others. I'll let him describe the procedure or people can search the archives here for advice on this.
"I am planning a 20 gallon planted tank using soil in the future, potentially several months from now. Would it be safe to put the necessary potting soil into a bucket with water now, so that the chemical "chaos" is finished by the time I set up the tank later this year?"
The main problem I see with mineralizing soil beforehand: An organic soil put into a bucket (thick layer several inches thick), will go through prolonged anaerobic decomposition, generating copious fermentation products (e.g., acetic acid). If levels are high enough, they could inhibit plant growth when the soil is put into the tank.
In my procedure, the mineralizing is done in the tank itself. Advantages are that with the plants, water movement, and a shallow soil layer, the soil should stay relatively aerobic. The other thing is that the soil decomposition takes a couple weeks to really crank up and create chaos (my book, Fig VIII-6 on page 131). If the hobbyist has set up tank with ENOUGH good rooted plants, the plants should be able to establish themselves beforehand and counteract the increasing chaos due to bacterial decomposition. (However, so many hobbyists skimp on plants and/or use non-competitive ones.
That said, mineralizing soil beforehand is a credible method. Our esteemed moderator Michael has set up many successful tanks with soil that he mineralized beforehand. It works well for him and others. I'll let him describe the procedure or people can search the archives here for advice on this.