[Gomer]

One thing that Amano mentioned at ADA seemed to strike a fancy with several people. It seams that he only uses really high light for only a small part of the lighting period.

For example: On the ~ 50g tank (90x45x45cm) that was demo'd at AGA, there was a fixture that had independend lights: 2x36 PC and 1x150 MH. Amano said that he would run the PC's about 10-12hours a day an only run the MH for 3-4 hours. I forget the whole explaination, but it had to do with supplying really high lighting only for a period of time that the plants would be able to fully utilize it.

Anyone use this sort of lighting cycle etc?

I was thinking of a 3x55 AH setup on a new tank that I am saving up for (24x16x16in). I would run a 1x55 10,000K 10-12hr a day and in the middle of the day turn on 2x55AH 9325K's for 4 hours. These lights of course would not sit directly on the tank, but would be around 10-12" above the tank. The outside reflectors would be angled inward to keep most of the light into the tank and out of the room.

 

[JLudwig]

One thing that Amano mentioned at ADA seemed to strike a fancy with several people. It seams that he only uses really high light for only a small part of the lighting period.

I know Amano did say that (thru Tomoko), but maybe Oliver can chime in here, he (Oliver) told me that Amano was only doing that for the big tank is his house, he seemed to think the tanks in the gallery are run full blast all day. :?:

Jeff

 

[Gomer]

I do recall that as well, but his explaination should be applicable to other setups. The translation being: Able to keep high light plants in healthy conditions while only having limited high light ..which also translates to healthy yet slower stem plant growth....which again seems to translate to less algea

(glad to have you posting Jeff. Also, if you can PM me the name of your Wifes company, I'd appreciate it. Never know when we will get funding for a new laser ...one of our Continuums is troublesome to say the least)

 

[tanVincent]

Hi,

That is what we did as well. We have a 90 x 45 x 60 tank and its running on a 56w PC and 150w MH. The PC is running on 11 hours and MH on 4 hours.

Cheers
Vincent

 

[SCMurphy]

Dude,

My 75 runs like that, sorta, all bulbs are ODNO T8s. Two bulbs come on for 2 hours, then another comes on, runs with 3 bulbs for 2 hours, then a fourth bulb lights up and it runs 4 bulbs for 3 hours, then back to 3 bulbs for 2 hours and then 2 bulbs for the last 2 hours.

 

[Gomer]

I remember that clearly now It doesn't seem widely practiced so I am trying to get other opinions on it.

*....7 tanks down there...and I didn't manage to sneak away with a single plant* :twisted:

 

[SCMurphy]

*....7 tanks down there...and I didn't manage to sneak away with a single plant* :twisted:

I didn't have anything you wanted.

 

[IUnknown]

At 12" from the top of the water, I wouldn't think that PC's would not have much effect. At first I thought the PC's were just to balance the light out. I thought PC's had to be installed close to the water surface, because they didn't have much reach. Maybe the MH are used to help ground cover, and the PC's for stem plants?

 

[Gomer]

*....7 tanks down there...and I didn't manage to sneak away with a single plant* :twisted:

I didn't have anything you wanted.

more like I don't even have room for the plants I brought home LOL

You had a couple interesting ones!

 

[Robert B]

I kind of have the same thing going on. I have 3 ODNO over my 30 gallon. Two of them run for 12 hours and the 3rd tube runs for a couple hours in the middle of the light cycle. With those three tubes on at the same time it is A LOT of light.

Robert. (bobo31)

 

[pineapple]

In several of the The Aquatic Gardner (TAG) issues in which an ADA aquarium is featured, the statistics information states a 10 hour lighting period.

Did anyone take a photo of the lighting system? I mean a photo from the bottom upward to show the placement of the bulbs and reflectors?

Where was the timer located? Remote to the bulb fixture?

Andrew Cribb

 

[Raul-7]

It seems interesting, but what's wrong with everyone's current lighting setup...aren't you already growing healthy plants. Why fix something when it's not broken? :?

 

[gnatster]

Did anyone take a photo of the lighting system? I mean a photo from the bottom upward to show the placement of the bulbs and reflectors?

While I didn't take any pictures of the bottom side here is the setup. Centered in the fixture is 1 150W HQI (unsure of K) bulb housed in a hammered finish reflector. On each long end as a 36W? CF bulb with the refelctors slightly canted toward the center. A sheet of glass protects the bottom. The CF ballasts are housed internally while the HQI electronic ballast is remote. There was no timer, nor any switches, when plugged in the lights came on.

The beauty of the system is the thought that went to into the designs of seemingly mundane parts. The brackets that hold the pole to the stand are also stainless with the bottom bracket designed to have a foot to keep the bottom of the pole off the floor. The tops of the poles are notched to accept the cross brace. The cross brace is held in by set screws. The brace is also designed with a slight curve to prevent the weight of the fixture from pulling it down. Clips are provided that fit over the pole and wire perfectly allowing the wires to be routed across and down the poles. A small bubble level that works on two planes is also included. The only design area I was not thrilled with was the method that cable was hung and secured. The design does not lend it's self to easy adjustability.

 

[pineapple]

I agree with you. The beauty is in the thought that went into the design (also into the design of many other ADA instruments.)

The lights are always hung relatively high above the water surface allowing the viewer unimpeded access to the water surface. I wonder how much light is dissipated before it gets into the water column.

In the ADA catalogue I have from 2002 there are two types of double ended MH bulbs used in these fixtures: 8000K and 10,000K.

Andrew Cribb

 

[Gomer]

Raul, one major possible gain is the ability to grow high light plants as if they are in high light, yet without the high light growth rates.

 

[gnatster]

The 2004 Catalog also lists 8000 and 10,000K MH bulbs with the CF being 32W.

One thing that also struck me was the quality of packaging. Everything went back into the boxes with no issues, including the protective packing. Someone said it reminded them of the way high end cosmetics are packaged. It's quite obvious a lot of thought goes into both the function and design.

 

[gpodio]

Here's a photo I took of the fixture, while the MH bulb had a reflector I don't recall seeing one on the PCs:

And the MH ballast:

I think Gomer hit the nail on the head, using this lighting period you can satisfy all the high light plants and penetrate deeply into the lower layers (you all saw the density of the background Amano planted!) yet at the same time reduce the daily growth making the aquascape last a little longer.

During the presentation Mr. Amano stated that you want to have a very high rate of photosynthesis for 3 hours or so each day and the rest of the day you want to stop it completely, having lighting only for your own viewing pleasure. I also had the chance to talk to Amano briefly about the lighting period and he said that in the tank he setup, he would have the MH on for 3 hours as well and the power compacts for 6 hours before and after the 3 hour intense period. He said this greatly helps eliminate algae problems.

Amano's monster tank for example has 4 or 6 (we heard both numbers, perhaps a translation error) 40W T12 for the "Viewing" light and I don't recall how many watts of MH spot lights for the 3 hour growth period.

So he's using around 1.5WPG for the first 6 hours, followed by 4.5WPG for 3 hours and finally another 6 hours of 1.5WPG. He also only injects CO2 during the intense 3 hour period.

And a brief chat with our very own Tom Barr revealed that he too is using a similar lighting period.... Tom are you holding out on us?? C'mon give us the scoop :wink:

Anyway, needless to say the moment I got home I reprogrammed the lighting on two of the tanks to give it a shot. I would love to reduce pruning frequency and still maintain the plants I have. Perhaps this shorter cycle may also help my anubias that get some spot algae on the leaves under 4WPG.

Giancarlo

 

[Gomer]

I believe the giant tank had 16 or 18 150watt MH's

 

[plantbrain]

Not holding out, just something I do with MH's and PC if they have a combo.

Pretty pricey for small tanks and I don't care for large fixtures over an open top tank. A small HQI is about all I like.
These run for 10hours.

I run many PC tanks at 10-11hours.
No issues.

Amano uses the Diffusers, while they are nice looking, I don't like crap in the tank. I also like something I can control better without a solenoid.
I also like an active additional flow of water when the plants are growing.
Seems they are more trooble to control the CO2 levels.

Less light is a way to provide more wiggle room as far as low CO2, nutrients etc. So you get less algae.

Plants will do fine at 1.5-2 w/gal also. They do not need the spike, but it can make some plants do well/grow faster also.

I typically use one or the other on small tanks(MH or PC).
Large tanks can use both like Amano suggested. I use them for 4-5hours, 3 would likely do okay also.

I use this for a few reasons: longer bulb life(MH's cost $$), less heat, less electric, simply don't need that much for that long to grow plants etc.

But a MH HQI + PC set up ain't cheap.
Well, ask the Senske's
A couple folks in the Bay have something like that light.

I use a HQI 150 on a 20 gal and have a pair of 30 gal cubes coming up.
My older 20's have 110w, PC's, 11 hour cycles.

There was no reflector onm the PC lights.
Bad design.

Less light in general reduces algae in virtually all cases.
That's something George Booth Claus, myself have said for sometime.
Adding a little bit in the middle is not too much removed from this concept.

I can still have low/simliar algae presence at high light(5.5w/gal) and full photoperoids(11hours and no algae, but you need to dose more often and make sure the CO2 is good.

Giancarlo, add more PO4(or CO2) and the spot algae will go away on the Anubias.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[pineapple]

Giancarlo - thanks for posting the photos. Images are helpful in understanding ADA aquaria. It would be nice to see another thread started with some comments on the equipment along with photos.

Andrew Cribb