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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have an UGF and I think that could be posing part of the problem.

I have been trying to find a source. I do not overfeed, I feed my fish twice a day, and they've eaten it all in about 30 seconds to a minute. Very possible I am underfeeding them. I douse with flourish twice a week at about 2ML (25 gallon tank) I have added some iron tabs into the substrait under heavy feeders like the Amazon swords as well as some substrate root ferts.

I use 2 Co2 Yeast reactors changed alternating weeks.

Params:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: unknown don't have a test kit for that yet.
GH: 200
PH: 8.0
KH: 110

light 55 watts
20 flora-glo
20 sun-glo
15 - compact flouressent
temp: 25C

Filtration:
Aquaclear 50 HOB
201 powerhead to the undergravel filter.

I don't mind algae for the most part, I have it basically under control and it feeds my shrimp +nerite, but I got a feeling I am going to lose control of the BBA that seems to be starting to take hold in various spots.

I would use excell, but my tank contains val and that can Kill val. I have done some spot treatments of hydrogen peroxide on the various bits of BBA as well as BGA.

I don't have a SAE thus far, I may be considering one.

Right now the problem isn't big, I remove infected leaves when I see them. but it's getting onto things I cannot readily remove.

I have seen currently:

BGA
Brown
Spot
Long thread like
Staghorn
BBA

So, I need some biological control that will effectively eliminate all of them. Aside of my hand and scissors.

Suggestions?
 

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I had similar algae issues when I used flourish and iron without the N,P,K. After lots of reading and asking questions I learned that if the plants don't have N,P, and K to take up, then they will not utilize the micronutrients (in the flourish) and those micros will then be available to algae.

Some root tabs have macro (NPK) in them, but not enough for anything other than very low light.

As far as excel and val: The val will eventually adjust to the excel (it takes a couple or more months in my experience) if you don't over-do-it. I have even found that the fissidens in my tank has adjusted very well to excel (when used as recommended on the bottle...can't say the same for over-dosing) .

-Dave
 

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So a gentle dosing of excell is okay?
Yes, but you WILL get some minor damage on the Vals at first until they adjust. Something I've also done is take the daily recommended dose of excel into a syringe and squirt it directly on the thread algae, BBA. That way the algae is getting a toxic dose, while the tank itself, as a whole, is only getting a very light dose.

-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay. I will unfortunately have to wait until after rent is out, then I will get excell. I got the ideal syringe with a tuby thing that makes aiming and getting into weird spots work.

Thanks a bunch dave.

Would new val runners be less upset?
 

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You would benefit from a better co2 system. I'll bet you aren't getting enough. Your macros are probably low too. Is the tank dirty? Fix those things and run a maintenance dose of Excel and it won't be back.

Relying on biological controls is not the solution. Solving the root issues is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My tank's water comes up pretty clear when I do my weekly water change/vac even the filter looks to be pretty clean. I do tend to remove dead/dying leaves and whatnot as I find them.

I would like a better co2 system, but at the moment, I can't afford it. Saving my pennies, mind you.

roots, where I can see them, appear bright white. So they seem healthy in that respect.
 

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I didn't mean roots literally. I meant that a band-aid approach (herbivores) to fixing the problem will only get you so far. Cover all your bases and this kind of thing is rarely a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
LOL sorry. I got a cold and I am a bit out of it.

I have been reading the other threads and I wonder if I am too low on the fert dosing, as I only do about 2 ml of flourish every couple days. I have done a water test and noticed a small amount of ammonia.

Its possible I got too high a bio-load. I am waiting for my sister to take me to the nearest BA so I can take some of my youngsters in for a trade. then I would like to get some excell or some ottos or something like that.
 

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Yeah, that much Flourish for a tank that size with that much light isn't even close to enough. But are you adding any nitrate or phosphate? Do you have a drop checker to measure co2?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have added fertiliser sticks into the roots which contain nitrate and phosphate. I do not have a drop checker. To sound completely ignorant. What is a drop checker?

Edit:I found them on ebay. I thought those were....diffusers. I will buy one :D
 

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If you go with a mineralized soil substrate or Aquasoil that have the macros more or less built in, that's fine, but I'd go with water column dosing if I were in your position. It sure doesn't sound like the root sticks are cutting it. Check out some of the stickies in the fertilizing forum. That should give you an idea of where you want to go. I can share my own preferences with you if you like.
 

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Hey

I had a few things come up today and wanted to say that I'll give you a proper response tomorrow. Your tank looks like it'll be something we can fix, so hang in there.
 

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http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/fertilizing/33560-how-i-do.html

There's an older thread of mine describing what I do. The especially relevant part is here:

Into 300mls of distilled water goes 3 teaspoons of kno3 and 1 teaspoon of potassium phosphate (obtained from Greg Watson).

Another 300mls of distilled water contains 1 teaspoon of potassium phosphate only.

It took some trial and error, but I add from 5.5 to 6.5 daily of the first solution and 3 of the second. It's kind of hard to articulate, but the amounts of the first solution don't change much and that allows me to make adjustments by altering the second one only. Both are added at night. I'm kind of surprised at how much P I add, but I just go by what the tanks needs and no longer ask why. I don't test unless something looks off simply because I don't like to. If I had to guess, I'd say that nitrates are usually around 20-25ppm and phosphates 2-3ppm.
Try making those solutions and going with 2.5 of the first and .75 of the second every day. Manually remove all you can and maybe do some spot treatment with the Excel. Got the drop checker? See how things go after a week or two. It's more or less an eyeballing method, but it works. You don't really have to be crazy about the water changes either. Every other week is fine. This is more or less in between EI and PPS and you can grow anything doing it. I set up a 75 from the beginning and there was zero algae from the first day to the last a year and a half later when I let it go emersed. It helps to have a bit of experience doing this, but we did it for a couple people in Pittsburgh who were new to the hobby with good success. I'll help you fiddle with it if you need.

Start with 5mls a day of Flourish and see how things look. Unless, of course, you've found a different way of doing things before I got back to you, which would be fine. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
how does this do for shrimp? My drop checker will be coming in ebay sometime. I have been removing infected leaves as I find them daily.
 
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