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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just joined so i thought id add what i have and see if people can give me advice...

Tank: 20g Long...
Lighting: Quad 24w 6500k t5, only at the moment using 2x24w 6500k t5 bulbs...
Co2: Diy using 3 liters worth of yeast/sugar method, bubble counter and glass diffuser
Filter System: Auqueon 50
Substrate: Just sand from LFS, and seachem root tabs...
Decor: Mopani driftwood, and sandstone...

Inhabitants:

Fish:
-7 neon tetras
-1 mollie
-5 ghost shrimp
-3 oto's


Plants:
-dwarf hairgrass
-cabomba caroliniana
-anubias barteri


Water tests:

ph= 7.6 (trying to get down using 2nd co2 reactor)
ammonia= 1ppm (doing water change on sat.)
nitrite= .25ppm
nitrate= 5ppm
kh= 4dkh or 71.6ppm
gh= 11dkh or 196.9ppm

I am grateful for any advice and thanks for taking a look!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
For those interested....

march 30th 2013:

ph=7.0;)
ammonia=.50 :neutral:
nitrite=.25:-s
nitrate=0:confused:
kh=5:)
gh=13:confused:

dosed: seachem neutral regulator, flourish, plant food and liquid co2
did water change on 29th, how can i lower gh and possibly raise my nitrates for the plants?
 

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You don't need to add nitrate for your plants at this stage. Your plants can (and actually prefer to) use Ammonia as a nitrogen source. However this is not good for your fish. Your tank isn't cycled yet as I think you know by your test results. It is a good idea to cycle your tank before adding fish and is much more humane. Search on fishless cycling and you will see what I mean. Certainly don't add any more fish yet.

I wouldn't worry about getting your pH down. 7.6 is fine, even though the tetras might prefer it a tad lower. It is more important to have it stable than lower it.

Using more CO2 is not the best way to lower your pH anyway. If your buffers (KH) are high enough (4 is probably the minimum to aim for) then adding CO2 won't change the pH much. That is the purpose of the KH.

To lower your GH you can add rain water or deionised water or RO water.

But don't do it all at once or your fish won't like it.

Do it gradually and then at each water change.

What are the rocks?

If anything I would add more plants.

Did you change your lighting. It looks like LED.

Lindsay
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
thanks for the advice... i will get some more plants, lighting is my t5 hood but the pic you probably saw was with the night time leds on for a few hours... and cichlidrookie... i do believe it is a platy... not sure as she was donated to us. only crappy news for today is i had a huge ammonia spike, i lost 3 casualties, but have done an immediate water change... will post later
 

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Hi,

Unfortunately 0.25ppm is still too high. Yes, there is too much bioload for a tank that has not cycled. All you can do is do more water changes or get rid of some of the fish, at least until it has cycled properly.

The problem is that doing the water changes will slow down the cycling. But it's better to keep the fish happy if you must have them in there. Just make sure your water going into the tank is the right GH, KH and temp of the tank water. Otherwise you create more stresses for the fish. Adjust your water in the bucket before you add it.

A safe ammonia level is 0.02ppm. 0.50 is toxic but even at lower concentrations like you have it may not kill the fish but it is bad for their health.

How long has the tank been set up?

Lindsay
 

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thanks again.... the tank has been up roughly 3 weeks now linds and maxwell i will do water changes more frequently i currently only change weekly is it ok to change daily?
Yes, it is ok to change the water daily as long as you are not making large changes to pH or GH etc. You will need to do this until it cycles.

If it has been going 3 weeks it shouldn't be too much longer. Id you have a fiend with a tank get some gravel from them and put it in your filter or just in your tank. Make sure it is a healthy tank though.

Read an article on cycling a tank or the nitrogen cycle. It is a benefit to understand this.

Lindsay
 
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