[NeonFlux]

The tips of my Myriophyllum mattogrossense have gotten white, is this a sign of low nitrate? or perhaps intense lighting? I am very high tech, here is what I have running...

60 Gallon acrylic heavily planted tank
Pressurized co2, Co2 is diffused via eheim's 2217 outtake through glass inline co2 diffuser (Co2 goes on when lights go on) very effective diffusion method, co2 mist streams everywhere.
4 WPG (On 7 hours)
NPK (esti. index), trace
50% W/C every week

I follow this plant food regime...

40-60 Gallons
1/2 tsp KNO3 3x a week
1/8 tsp KH2PO4 3x a week
1/8 tsp K2SO4 3x a week
1/8 tsp (10 ml) traces 3x a week

I have been dosing 1/8 tsp. of KNO3 recently, when I should really dose a little more than that, like 1/2 tsp, however, I know my fish load is high enough so I thought why bother adding more KNO3? My nitrate is usually at 10 ppm after the end of the week before I water change. Well, here is my stock,

60 gallons. Had the rainbows for about a year, and they are getting bigger.

5 Boosemani rainbows (not fully grown to 5 in)
1 Turquiose rainbow (not fully grown to 4 in)
2 Congo tetras (Fully grown)
2 Red line torpedo barbs (Not fully grown to 6")
5 Sterbai corydoras (Not fully grown to 2 and a half in)
10 Rummynose tetras (Fully grown)
10 Cardinal tetras (Fully grown)
3 Golden white minnows

Filters:
Eheim 2217
Fluval 305

Should I add a little more KNO3? 3 WPG instead of 4? Get the high light out of plant's way? Let it be somewhat shaded?

 

[NeonFlux]

Aha, the seller told me that it is indeed the intense lighting. I should keep it on the background

 

[Cavan Allen]

I got a fever, and the only prescription is....more micros!

Iron in particular. At least double your them. If you've got lots of everything else, you've got to keep up there too. Lighting intensity is only an indirect cause here.

 

[Zapins]

I agree with Cavan, add more micros.

Intense light won't cause myrio to go pale like that. I've seen it growing in ponds around here in direct sunlight for the entire day which is far more intense than tank lighting.

Also, low nitrates tend to show up as pale new growth that steadily gets smaller compared with old growth, and usually you will see old leaves start to turn yellow and decompose as the nitrogen is moved from old leaves to new leaves.

By the way, I'm trying to get rummynose tetras for my angelfish tank. I've got 6 fully grown angels at the moment. The rummies seem to be pretty expensive though at around 3$ each. How much were yours and how well do they school together compared with your other fish?

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi Neonflux,

Here is a link to a site I have used on several occasions to help me diagnose deficiency problems. Scroll about 1/2 down and 1/2 across to get to the deficiency area. http://www.finostrom.com.gr/images/aqua/fertilizers/map.htm I had a similar problem (we have very soft water here in Seattle) and added calcium chloride to resolve the problems. Hope this helps.

 

[NeonFlux]

I agree with Cavan, add more micros.

Intense light won't cause myrio to go pale like that. I've seen it growing in ponds around here in direct sunlight for the entire day which is far more intense than tank lighting.

Also, low nitrates tend to show up as pale new growth that steadily gets smaller compared with old growth, and usually you will see old leaves start to turn yellow and decompose as the nitrogen is moved from old leaves to new leaves.

By the way, I'm trying to get rummynose tetras for my angelfish tank. I've got 6 fully grown angels at the moment. The rummies seem to be pretty expensive though at around 3$ each. How much were yours and how well do they school together compared with your other fish?

Interesting. Okay, more micros. My rummynose tetras were about 3.00 each and they school great. I got my rummynose's from a good reliable source, the ones I bought were fully acclimated to pH of 7.6. My rummynoses all survived.