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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These are my tank specs:

46 gallon bowfront
5.5wpg PC 10000K and 6700K
Soil underlayer below gravel

Fertilator says I'm adding (three times weekly):
N 12.7 (KNO3)
P 3.85 (Monobasic P sulfate)
Plus 5ml Flourish
Traces via CSM + B
I am also adding Kent Botanica Grow for Mg and Ca
CaCl for signs of a Ca deficiency that still persist
Moderate/heavy fishload

Pressurized CO2, between 10 and 25ppm depending on the time of day

The problem is that the plants are still not growing as well as I'd like. They do not get bushy, and they grow slowly. The Broadleaf stellata I ordered a month ago is in a well-lit location but has only developed two nodes with submersed foliage and appears to have stopped altogether. There is no algae to speak of other than the green spot that develops every few weeks on the glass.

Leaves of Hygrophila polysperma, Ludwigia glandulosa and Ammania senegalensis are still curling and stunting. Ludwigia inclinata will steadily lose its lower leaves until it develops floating shoots, and only these retain their leaves.

Am I adding too many ferts here? (I started to suspect it today, when the water got cloudy after my daily dose). Is too much P limiting N? I'm no biochemist :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 12.7 is ppm.

The reason why I've got so much light now is because I've been trying to get a high-light tank right for some time. I wonder if the problem is not somehow related to the soil substrate?

As far as adding quadruple the amounts needed in other tanks, I am adding a full half teaspoon of KNO3 three times weekly. That's a lot of N.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tap GH is 10.

CO2 is indeed off at night, I will turn it back on. I also am using a Whisper overflow-style filter, I imagine that prevents the CO2 from getting too high.

CaCl dosing is 1 tsp daily. In my tank that translates into about 1 ppm daily, at least according to fertilator. Also, when I add this, it clouds the water substantially and for almost the entire day. This leads me to believe that there's plenty of Ca in the water (don't know if that's true) and that the problem lies elsewhere.

I do not dose Mg whatsoever, and I have no value for its tapwater concentration in my area.

The tank gets 50-75% weekly water changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Roger Miller said:
As near as I can tell a watt per gallon measure over 5 on a medium-sized or large tank creates far more problems than it solves.
That's the idea behind this. I'd like to determine just how to do a high light tank correctly. I have done tanks in the range of 1-3 with success. I am trying something new.

Alright, here is the dosing regimen I am going to begin on Monday (water change day):

Days 1, 3, 5, 7: .5 tsp. KNO3 (approx. 12.7ppm), 1/16 tsp. Monobasic K Phos (approx 1.6ppm)

Days 2,4,6: 1/2 tsp CSM + B.

I'll eliminate the Flourish, Kent Botanica, CaCl, etc.

I have also taken the CO2 off the light timer. We will see what happens. If I need to up the N (which I doubt, given my fish load), then I will.

Suggestions welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LOL

Well, I may be hitting myself with a mallet, but the idea behind it all is I'm too cheap to let this 192 watt PC fixture go to waste :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You know, the first time I ever checked my Ca with the fertilator, I thought the value might have been a tad skewed. 1 TEASPOON a day gives 1ppm? Never seemed right, but I never though to bring it up.
 
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