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New Custom 220 gal

50K views 155 replies 30 participants last post by  gerryd 
#1 ·
Hi all,

Hope all is well with everyone....

I am fortunate to be in a position to get a custom built tank and stand per my specs...

Dimensions in inches: 72 (length) x 20 (height) x 36 (width/front to back) for approx 220 gallons.

Rimless Starphire glass on all 4 sides...NO bulkheads of any type.....I will most likely go with black silicone rather than the clear...

Stand will be powder coated steel and will also have a custom fabricated light bar that will attach to the stand..The bar will also be powder coated to match....

Lead time is about 6 weeks so hope to get in June...

Here are links to the builders and the hardware choices for lights, filter, substrate, etc.

Links to hardware and such:

1. Tank manufacturer/builder:

http://www.coasttocoastaquariums.com/

2. Overflow(CS202) for intake flow:

http://www.cpraquatic.com/products/overflows.html

3. Sump and wet/dry (Model 4):

http://www.southbroadwaytropicals.com/ItemPages/WetDry.htm

4. Sump pump (1800gph) OR separate c02 pump (500-600gph). I may use a larger model as the sump and co2 pump or a smaller model just for c02.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Danner_M...anner_Mfg.-DN1159-FIWPSBUFPO-DN1161-1-vi.html

5. Lights (T5HOx12x39w):

http://www.aquaticlife.com/t5ho_six_lamp/index.html

6. Bulbs(Giesemann 39w Midday and 39w AquaFlora T5 HO Lamps):

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/giesemann-midday-t5-ho-lamps x 6

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/giesemann-aquaflora-t5-ho-lamps x 6

7. Additional filtration:

http://www.eheim.de/eheim/inhalte/index.jsp?key=liniendetail_27575_ehen

8. Additional flow (MP40):

http://ecotechmarine.com/vortech-mp40w-es-propeller-pump/

9. Substrate (amazonia I):

http://www.adgshop.com/Substrate_System_s/1.htm

I will not use powersand or anything else..

That should do it...The eheim has an internal heater should I need one, or the sump is large enough to toss in a heater if need be...

The stand will be 'open' until I get the skirt designed and built with detachable panels all around.

I intend to place the new aquarium so that there is sufficient space to walk completely around it. It will of course be the focal point of the apt lol

Appreciate any comments or experiences with any of the hardware. Much of it I have used but not the sump or the eheim canister...

I will be injecting c02 and using the EI dosing method...

I have a detailed thread over at the barr report if you want to follow that...start at post #60....

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8435-New-Tank-Build-Thread/page6
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Hi,

Thanks for the warning as I had not heard that...These units are used by several folk I know and noone has mentioned that. I will investigate...I was aware of the need for the aqua lifter pump and had plans for one as well as a backup or two :)

I can always gets a traditional U siphon tube config...I like the wet/dry for the long term and can compensate fairly easily for the loss of c02...

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Gerry,

I would highly suggest having bulkheads installed to attach filters and circulation pumps to. My tank is very similar in dimensions to what yours is going to be and the drilled sides and bottom have been a life and space saver. Check out my thread for photos.

Cheers,
Phil
 
#6 · (Edited)
Phil, very nice tank....the stand/canopy is very nice....How many BH do you have and where placed/sized? Looks like 3 along the back bottom and 1-2 on each side of the wier? Sorry to hear that you have not had time for the tank as I know you would like. Best of luck with it!!!!

Hi KnH and Phil,

I was originally going to drill 2 X 1.5" intakes and 4 X 1" outlet bulkheads for this build and simply go closed loop as I have now. After MUCH deliberation and discussion I chose not to drill for the following reasons:

1). I do not want an internal wier or overflow even the smaller footprint california or coast to coast style.. My current 180 has twin corner overflows and I don't like losing the real estate to them, nor the look of them from the side :) I realize that the builders can build an external scupper box, but I wanted to see as much viewing glass as possible. The tank will be rimless style (NO euro bracing) and with the 36" depth, I really wanted an open feeling.

2). The aquarium will have all 4 sides with starphire glass and will be oriented/positioned so that all 4 sides can be viewed by walking around it. The 'front' and left 'end' will be the 'main' viewing panes. I will have about 20-24" or area at the 'back' and other 'end' to allow for walkaround and some viewing of these panes. While not perfect, it will do until I have a house and not an apartment..

Based on this the bulkheads would have gone towards the MIDDLE of the tank for aesthetics and visibility as there is no 'back' so to speak...I did not want any BH in the front or main viewing sides.

If some day the tank can be placed for proper 4 sided viewing, I still think tubes and a small overflow box can be hidden.

3). I did NOT to be forced to always scape around the bulkheads. I know it can be done but where would YOU place the bulkheads? :) I wanted either a 2" or 2x1.5" bulkhead for proper intake flow...the 4 outlets would have fed loc-line. I could have reduced to 2 outlets, but where to place them?

4). If someone comes over to see it and they are asking me about a couple of tubes running over the side.....I have not done a good job :)

5). A person I respect with much experience with custom/clients has found that drilling SOMETIMES works better in theory than practice. This was another factor among many. I wanted flexibilty in the design as much as possible.

6). Less complexity/risk for plumbing. No BH to concern (even tho they don't leak now and I would use sched 80). I wanted to combine the 2 intakes under the tank into a larger pipe to feed whatever I eventually ended up with filter/wise lol Like the twin eheims..

Remember that I also went for only 20" of height to give it a more 'pond' type look along with the 3'
depth front to back. I really want folks to get a sense of looking downwards a bit...

I feel that I can more easily hide a few tubes and an overflow and such with emergent growth and some tinkering....I like to change my scapes over time and don't always want to be forced to scape around the BH in any way. I do it now and dislike it very much.

My second option with this and I still may go this way is to simply use 2 of the Eheim pro III series with the builtin heater models and forgo the sump wet/dry. That way I only need to hide the 3 tubes per canister....2 intakes and the outlet.

My goal/hope is to WOW the viewer so much that it will be years before they even notice that there are inlet and outlet tubes and perhaps an overflow :) I have seen examples where I cannot find any tubes yet I know they are there...

Part of my scape is to incorporate emergent growth to give a more tropical look so hiding tubes and such should not pose too great an obstacle...

I really appreciate the comments and thoughts/feedback.

ValorG,

I will for sure post some pics as things develop :)

Thanks for listening....

Gerry.
 
#7 ·
I saw you build thread over there also, :D

My background is in reef setups, CPR style overflows have given me nothing but problems
Having a corner drain and return covered with virgin cork bark or large diameter bamboo
would be very interesting.

Life Reef makes probably the best U tube overflows
Check out Reefcentral for opinions on overflows

Balance and trade offs will drive you crazy, trying to figure everything out

I look forward to following your progress
 
#14 ·
Hi,

Thanks for sharing your experiences. I will investigate the various types/models of overflows available. I may get more than 1 model to experiment with just to gain the experience and pros/cons of each...

I hope to have the tank for awhile :)

Yes, it can be a headache, but it is a lot of FUN as well. I am more than a little excited....

I will spend more time at RC.. I am pretty sure I am a member/lurker there....when I was checking out pumps and the nu-clear canisters, I spent some time there...

Thanks.

Gerry.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Hi billb1,

Yes, I am liking the dimensions as well :) Tom Barr suggested it as I was only going to go 30" front to back..I really think this will look great with just a 20" height..the rimless helps a lot too to open it up..

Unsure how the returns will go at this time. I am thinking I would have two returns from the sump pump, perhaps one on each end or perhaps side by side. I will have lots of time to plan this out once the tank is actually here...as it will take several weeks for the DSM method and the ADA substrate to 'cycle'. See my reply to Niko for details..

I will also have a vortech pump for additional flow, so the returns do not need to be as powerful.

Thanks for the support!
 
#9 ·
Gerry,

You should check out Steve Colley's threads about building his tank and then the new tank setup given all he's learned. It's very informative and full of great pictures. If you're wanting to go with a custom setup with multiple visible sides you could learn a lot from what Steve's gone through.

Tank build: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/27814-building-75g-all-glass-tank.html

Son of Kahuna: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/47667-son-kahuna-56k.html

Cheers,
Phil
 
#12 · (Edited)
Hi Phil,

Thanks for the links and am reading them now...thank goodness for speed reading courses lol

Couldn't help but notice that Steve noted the same cons for bulkheads that I did.....I see he has lots of holes drilled though...

I was really for the BH at first, but the more I think about it, that for MY applications/goals, not drilling is the way to go...Pretty sure I can elegantly hide the overflow and intakes and the two small returns....

I really feel that the center of the tank is the ideal bulkhead placement location for this application. However, I will always be forced to have hardscape to hide them. That is a deal breaker for me. I do not want the same scape for the next 20 years, especially one of my attempts :) Flexibilty was/is an important consideration in every aspect of this build.

Remember too that as I age some things may become harder to deal with than they are now...

Thanks for the ideas and support!
 
#10 ·
I see that you have thought all this very thoroughly. As far as the setup I myself would choose the exact same equipment/equipment performance. So my opinion abotu equipemtn is not really relevant here.

2 questions:

1. How much CO2 you think your sump will waste?
KnH here is in the process of setting up a big tank too and we talked about the sump being the best filtration choice but also wasting CO2. There is a way to reduce the losses, but what is your opinion about that?

2. Why have you chosen to use EI? Why not ADA's method?
My guess is - because you have used EI before and are comfortable with it.
To me, having to consistenlty change large amounts of water on a big tank is too much work in the long run. Even if that's not a problem, with EI you can't really let the tank be by itself for a long time - or at least you need to adjust things before leaving and have a "recovery" period after.

I read your post over at barreport where you say you wanted to try either the dry start method or the ADA method. It would be of great benefit to people here to read about the ADA method. Can you post a link if you can?

Since you will need to test the tank for leaks anyway one really, really good thing that you can do to start on the right foot is to put the substrate in and fill the tank with water. Then circulate it without any light, no plants, no fish as long as you want. This seems to go a long way toward establishing things right. Yes it will waste some of the Ammonia that AquaSoil provides initially but I do believe that what I suggest makes a big difference. Plus of course hooking up an already seeded filter when you put the plants + fish later (if you can arrange that, at least the Eheim can easily be established on your existing tank, if not the entire sump media).

--Nikolay
 
#13 · (Edited)
Hi Niko,

Appreciate your agreement on hardware :)

I can't quantify the c02 loss via sump use, but this can be reduced by sealing the sump as much as possibly. Many sumps are open to air by design. I have used duct tape and plexiglass to cover my sump. This helps a lot. Also, reducing the waterfall effect in the wiers is also vital. Much loss occurs here if the drop is > 1-2 inches.

My new sump (a diff model than originally planned) does NOT cover the area where the return pump is housed. However, I can easily lay an acrylic 1/8 sheet over this....The intake/drip tray portion has a lid already..Plus, it has 3 filter socks!!!!

http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/proflex-sump.htm

The model 4 of course :)

I will be using the DSM method while USING ADA as the substrate..The whole idea behind DSM and ADA is be used TOGETHER to let the tank basically cycle with only enough water to keep the substrate moist while the plants grow in..once they do, they help consume the nh4 and as they grow and spread, they get plenty of atmospheric c02 to grow well. Just have to ensure your c02 is up to snuff once filled with water. Some melt may occur but it works really well.

Here is the link on the Barr report...

http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...-tank-without-any-algae-any-issues-dosing-etc

So, doing this will cycle the substrate and grow out my carpet plants and anubias...by the time the ground cover is ready, you can fill with water and add fish right away if you choose.

I will still take my time adding fish as I am in no hurry. I want to do this right (for once).

Thanks.
 
#15 ·
Hi all,

I realize that there are things I could do to save money on this project such as building my own sump and wet/dry. I feel that I have the skill set (or could learn) to do some of these things, but I don't mind paying for plug and play components.

The sump IMO could be larger, but is supplied with dual intakes and 3 sock filters, as well as a lid that covers some of it. The sock filters and dual intakes were min requirements for any model and I also like the way the water flows thru the socks into the drip tray... It is well built (my supplier called me to tell me so) apparently and will fit my needs perfectly. I got a good price locally so was able to spread some local $ which I like...

I also have some health issues which will only worsen as the years go by...this is a factor in some of these decisions as well....always thinking long term when possible.

However, the system will actually be fairly simple overall, and I have a feeling that some more thinking and planning and getting feedback from you all, will result in even a better plan. For example I could perhaps use one of the new c02 atomizers that are used inline..this would be very simple to install...

My goals going in were to use the KISS (keep it simple stupid) method whenever possible AND to use high quality components. I am wanting this stuff to last 15-20 years if I am lucky or to hand it off if not :) I can afford it right now so may as well take advantage. No wife, kids, or any debt so now is the time....

Thanks for listening and all the feedback and comments. I hope that the final (?) product will be worth the wait.

Gerry.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Overflow boxes

Hi all,

Well I spent some more time over at ReefCentral(RC) reviewing overflow boxes..

I just received via UPS a lifereef slimline box with dual overflows and siphon tubes. It flows approx 1200 gph. Here is a link:

http://lifereef.com/frame.html

It looks real solid but will unwrap and inspect in more detail later.....

I have also been 'speaking' via e-mail with Jeff the owner about making a custom box for me that would be fitted with THREE bulkheads so that I can do a beananimal overflow modification. Here is a link:

http://beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Jeff is intrigued by the design and has some questions on the need for the third siphon...

However, I think he is just happy to ply his skills on a custom job :) Being sarcastic here...

I am doing research to understand the design and if I like it I would provide a sketch and dimensions to Jeff and he would build it for me...

Tom Barr had suggested the beananimal design but since I was originally intending to go with a CPR overflow, could not figure how to mod it for 3 intakes...

Once I chose the lifereef model and saw Jeff also does custom work, and I have a custom tank...

It all seemed to fall into place.

So, will post my decisions and all details should I move forward.

I apologize for babbling on but these posts may help someone in the future and it helps me to think through things as well. I have learned PLENTY from others posting their experiences.

Thanks!
 
#50 ·
Re: Overflow boxes

Hi all,

Well I spent some more time over at ReefCentral(RC) reviewing overflow boxes..

I just received via UPS a lifereef slimline box with dual overflows and siphon tubes. It flows approx 1200 gph. Here is a link:

http://lifereef.com/frame.html

It looks real solid but will unwrap and inspect in more detail later.....

I have also been 'speaking' via e-mail with Jeff the owner about making a custom box for me that would be fitted with THREE bulkheads so that I can do a beananimal overflow modification. Here is a link:

http://beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Jeff is intrigued by the design and has some questions on the need for the third siphon...

However, I think he is just happy to ply his skills on a custom job :) Being sarcastic here...

I am doing research to understand the design and if I like it I would provide a sketch and dimensions to Jeff and he would build it for me...

Tom Barr had suggested the beananimal design but since I was originally intending to go with a CPR overflow, could not figure how to mod it for 3 intakes...

Once I chose the lifereef model and saw Jeff also does custom work, and I have a custom tank...

It all seemed to fall into place.

So, will post my decisions and all details should I move forward.

I apologize for babbling on but these posts may help someone in the future and it helps me to think through things as well. I have learned PLENTY from others posting their experiences.

Thanks!
I just read through this whole thread and I have to say your off to a great start. My question is about your idea to use the Beananimal design pipes in an overflow box. I asked this question on another forum and got no definitive answers. I already own a sump and will have Lifereef design an overflow for my acrylic tank that has Eurobracing. If it is even possible to run the beananimal design without drilling into the back of the tank. I would like to use this design for the failsafe and it is supposed to be quieter than other designs. If this design won't work I will just use the u-tube overflow design that is standard but was curious if it was possible to have 3 bulkheads installed in the outer overflow box and run the beananimal design pipes. Thanks for any info you can share on this overflow idea.
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
Hi KnH,

Thanks for the link. That helped put it together for me...

I now understand the bean setup pretty well I think. I will also research the Herbie as I know it is a predecessor.

I fully intend to first try the Lifereef overflow and sump as is with NO mods...

It may well be plenty quiet as I am not looking to push 2k gph through it.

I will provide plenty of pics when the time comes..I am reviewing the contracts and spec sheets atm. So there is an 8 week lead time where I will be waiting for it to be built. I will use that time to get all the equipment I need and to plan on how to hide the stand (open for now) and the overflow and tubes.

I think for now I will get some indoor bushy/ferny plants and such to place around it. Then I can use other ways to cover the tubes...cork bark or emergent growth. I have the sump and lights, but still need the ADA, the vortech, and the sump pump. In addition to deciding about c02...

I appreciate the feedback, comments, and interest.

Gerry.
 
#19 ·
Check for deposit and contracts sent!

Hi all,

I sent out the signed contracts and spec sheets back to Chris at CTC today..I also sent along a deposit check. He should get them early next week and the check should clear the banks by end of week hopefully.

Once that happens the real wait starts :)

The ADA substrate I understand should ship in a week or so and will arrive in plenty of time. I am pricing vortech mp40 as well as the sump pump.

Really now thinking of how to skirt the stand and cover any tubing..Lots of good options out there..

More to come but there should be no updates for awhile due to the build and delivery lead time....I am sure that makes many of you happy :) Unless some hardware comes in or some decision is changed..

Hopefully I will not post daily, saying 'I can't wait' lol
 
#22 ·
Gerry,

Over the years I've noticed something with people that spend a lot of money to custom build big planted tanks. The tanks have all the bells and whistles but the aquascaping is always mediocre at best. I'm yet to see a big custom tank that is truly beautiful when it's all said and done.

Could you post some plans about your aquascape. I really, really hope the exra custom techie everything is not where the beauty ends because a rimless tank with these dimensions itself is absolutely gorgeous.

--Nikolay
 
#23 · (Edited)
Hi Niko,

Your reply really struck home for me in several ways....I too am concerned that I may not do this tank justice...I guess you have seen my previous/current scapes and is why you bring this up :)

Part of the $ spent was to establish an excellent base from which to start my dream. I don't think in terms of contest winners, but I for sure want to have a look that folks 'WOW' over....

Sometimes you do get what you pay for so I purchased quality hardware....The ADA AS will form a nice long lasting substrate and nutrient base. This will reduce the amount of water column dosing in the first year or so..

The vessel itself had to be beautiful and long lasting and the hardware also long lasting and durable. In most cases I went with products/brands that I know and have had good long lasting experiences with.

I think that CTC hit the beautiful vessel part!

While the hardware seems high tech along with the c02, please note that of the 12 available bulbs I doubt I would use all 12. I am using 5 now on my 180...I like this light for the spread and flexibility it provides...I would have taken the same light in T8 or T5NO....But I like the T5 guisemanns..

The sump will simply have a return pump and c02 needle wheel in sump. Just a few intake/outlet lines to hide...Vortech for extra flow..Not really high maintenance at all as I do not have the auto water changer, dosing pumps, feeders, etc.

Lights and c02 on timers...not built into the house security or car key fob :)

So........the scape........

I am still imagining it but I keep seeing Africa and the open savannah with the small pockets of forests that spring up suddenly and form an oasis for many animals....

I can't say too much as I want to hopefully surprise some folks with a really nice end product...

I really want to have an open feel where the viewer is looking down at a pond, but can see inside as well. I can see a floating lilly or two, and if I can get some FLOWERING emergent growth, that would be awesome.

I would use blyxa or something to mimic the grasslands, and most likely a carpet of staurogyne...I have had this combo before and I like the look and growth patterns of both species.

There would be much open swimming space over the stauro and blyxa and these areas would be 'sunnier' than others. The forest sections would be more shaded (remove a bulb or two as well) and have some ferns/crypts as well.

While this will not be biotope specific, some elements of that will come into play.

I would like to use African fish species but plants will mostly be my personal favorites :)

I am unsure now actually of the fish species and am still deciding..But I like congos and a buddy turned me on to some small african mouthbrooders...I also like syndontis species....and butterfly fish...african killies? Many choices..

I also want to use silk plants/ferns on the two walls so as to enhance the tropical feel.

I totally share your concern that this will not be up to snuff, but I do have some experience and some excellent scapers with much experience as mentors...

That being said, the tank itself is so beautiful that I will be continuously challenged to keep it inspiring and look it's best..

I like to change my scapes over time and feel this footprint and lack of standpipes and wiers will provide a nice canvas as time goes by...

I can't say you won't be disappointed but hope that it will be something that will be attractive to some.

Thanks for listening...
 
#24 · (Edited)
Hi all,

The construction is all complete and should ship out mid-week next week!

I really like the look of it all and think they did a great job. It looks just like I had designed/envisioned so any design flaws are mine :)

Here are 4 pics. Two each of the tank and the stand/light bar.

The only thing I will change are the 4 long bolts on the light bar brackets. I will also place a cap on the end so I don't injure myself...

I ordered 15 bags of ADA Amazonia New type and expect delivery end of next week. I purchased from ADG and Frank was very nice and helpful.

So, just need to purchase the sump pump and some plumbing fittings, but want to wait until the tank is actually here so I can play with the position of the sump. I have so much room under there it will be nice compared to the snake's nest I currently have.

Enjoy. I hope to have @ home pics in 10-14 days! Then some setup time with the DSM before the fill with water. There will also be a leak test and filter test once I get it here.

Will be nice even to see the tank on the stand!
 

Attachments

#25 ·
Shipped!

Hi all,

CTC shipped it all out today and I expect delivery sometime next week :) Need to coordinate with the carrier and the mover, but should be okay.

I purchased 5 cases (15 bags) of ADA Amazonia New type from ADG and that arrived today! I had only ordered it last week so very quick and excellent service from Frank @ ADG! He also spent quite a bit of time discussing usage and the like, along with the issues with type II.

Tom Barr has sent me two big boxes of manzy wood along with what I have already, I should have sufficient 'Manzyscape'. I still am on the lookout for nice rocks, but unsure if I will use them in this scape. The wood is all beautiful and I will post some pics at a later time.

More as things develop.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Dream tank.
Thank you. This is a dream for me for quite some time now. Not as large as I would like (are they ever?) but I hope to have it for many years to come and this will serve as my 'main' tank even if I give up the others.

Tell me you're going to have some help planting that.
I will have some help planting it. Satisfied? :)

Please feel free to post any ideas or pictures and articles that you feel may assist since it seems I could use help based on your comment and a previous one from another poster :) I love to read and to see pictures of tanks as they all have beauty. I may not be able to replicate or mimic nature or these tanks of the months, but I can appreciate it.

I included a picture of the tank ON the stand that CTC took for me which I thought was nice of them. There is about an 1/8" between the tank and the light bar. I intend to use some sort of foam or rubber/plastic that would not be noticeable that would provide some buffer. The light bar I expect will have some movement on it and better safe than sorry. Chris @ CTC suggested this.

Thanks
 

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#28 ·
To me personally such a big tank needs an aquascape that is both VERY striking and very easy to maintain. Not just "easy" but completely hands off actually because of the size of the tank. If you end up using EI or PPS it will be you that maintains the tank looking beautiful. And beautiful it will be because both of these "methods" provide an excess of nutrients which the plants love. But the tank will be stable only after it has gone through its natural stages. And during that initial period you will be doing a lot of unnecessary (but maybe enjoyable) work. One very likely problem is that the tank will eventually be stable, but not as stable as it can actually be. (If you have to change anything before going on vacation for example your tank is not as stable as it can be.)

Also it's very natural to decide to have wood/plants sticking above the tank. It'd be a waste not to use the open space.

You mentioned an African open savannah and small pockets of vegetation. I can't visualize that, and I know why. Not dismissing the idea at all. I just have a stunning large display tank in mind that I just can't get out of my mind as an excellent example. It's Amano's:

Here, go to 3:15:


2 things about it: Ease of maintenance + strong impression.

Even if all of the above is not very useful to you here's an advice that you will be better off following. Get the ADG folk to help you if possible. Hopefully they will be willing and will have time to answer. I'm saying that because if you follow any forum's advice you are bound to be on a long road of ups and downs.

--Nikolay
 
#30 ·
Hi Niko,

Thanks for your reply.

To me personally such a big tank needs an aquascape that is both VERY striking and very easy to maintain.
I agree 100% These are two of my current goals

Not just "easy" but completely hands off actually because of the size of the tank.
Part of my love for the hobby is the gardening involved and is WHY I am getting a bigger tank with a larger footprint in the first place. While I do not want a dutch style that requires constant trimming and care, I do like to work with the plants and expect that.

I have a 180 gal now and this new one will not be that much bigger. The lower height will also facilitate maintenance. I have easy access for water changes and the sump/overflow should not require much maintenance.

If you end up using EI or PPS it will be you that maintains the tank looking beautiful. And beautiful it will be because both of these "methods" provide an excess of nutrients which the plants love. But the tank will be stable only after it has gone through its natural stages. And during that initial period you will be doing a lot of unnecessary (but maybe enjoyable) work.
I think with the ADA and the DSM that the tank will mature a bit more quickly and 'stabilize' sooner. By the time the tank is flooded I may have 4-6 weeks of emergent growth to that point.

One very likely problem is that the tank will eventually be stable, but not as stable as it can actually be. (If you have to change anything before going on vacation for example your tank is not as stable as it can be.)
Not sure I get your meaning here. I only lower the PAR and photoperiod while I am away and that is it. I want to research an auto water column doser but only as the ADA will lower the need for water column dosing for the first few years.

Also it's very natural to decide to have wood/plants sticking above the tank. It'd be a waste not to use the open space.

You mentioned an African open savannah and small pockets of vegetation. I can't visualize that, and I know why. Not dismissing the idea at all. I just have a stunning large display tank in mind that I just can't get out of my mind as an excellent example. It's Amano's:

2 things about it: Ease of maintenance + strong impression.
I can see why you can't picture my ideas :) You are expecting way too much to bring out an Amano tank as an example. Very few folk other than family and friends will ever see this tank as it is for MY enjoyment.

I agree with both of your points on the amano scape and have the same goals.

Even if all of the above is not very useful to you here's an advice that you will be better off following. Get the ADG folk to help you if possible. Hopefully they will be willing and will have time to answer. I'm saying that because if you follow any forum's advice you are bound to be on a long road of ups and downs.
So how do I know to follow THIS advice lol

Thanks very much for your feedback.
 
#32 ·
Hi Ernie,

Thanks much for your feedback as well.

I am guessing you lean more toward nature style? My opinionated rambling:
While I like the nature style I also like the dutch and many other 'styles'.

1) Hardscape immediately sets the tone on a big tank, so it should be the #1 priority. I'm sure you know where to get the good stuff. I think the best examples can stand on their own merits vs. "it'll look good once the plants grow in." Have a goal in mind and stick with it.
I agree here. I have lots of very fine manzanita wood and more still is on the way. I would rather have too much than not enough. I will sell/give away the rest... I think many scapes look better once the plants grow in some but I get your meaning here.

My preference is for thinner branch type wood with at least 1 large grouping that breaks the surface. This provides a sense of scale and allows for lots of different ways to integrate plants. I think stones could be very difficult and cost prohibitive for this project.
There will be lots of landing spots for insects out of the water :) I actually want to see if I can get some small flowering growth I think that would be nice. Since this is a lifetime project the cost of stones if I felt they were needed would not prevent me from acquiring them. I think I will forgo them initially but do like to use them. They make excellent hiding/brood spots for fish and are also very attractive in a nature style.

2) Large groups of easy plants. Big healthy patches of ferns, moss, crypts, anubias, and other easy to maintain plants are my favorite. This will allow you to take your foot off the nutrient gas pedal if/when you getting tired of playing contortionist aquascaper. Do not do not do not give in to collectoritis.
I am with you here, but a dutch style IS collectoritus :) I have no intentions of daily/weekly trimming sessions. I like and intend to use mostly these types of submerged growth.

3) Have a plan for algae. It will rear its ugly head, and manual removal should be the last line of defense. Double and triple think about your CO2/fert strategies.
I think I will be okay here as well. I do have several years of c02 usage and algae issues under my belt and think I can avoid the biggest issues. I will plant heavily and do my best to keep algae out in the first place. Manual removal is simply part of the toolkit.

I think you need to get with Niko and agree to stop using Amano and Oliver Knott examples as things you would like to see here. I admire all of these folks' work and it is all beautiful.

Again, you are in for disappointment if you think my scape is going to look anything like theirs. Please come back to planet earth.
 
#33 ·
Hi all,

Niko brought up a point about using ADG if possible.

Since I hope to have this for a long time I have made inquiries into having someone 'scape' my tank for me. While I cannot afford TA or OK I think I can still hire some great scapers that will do a much better job than myself.

I can and will do this if I think my efforts are not even good enough for me. However I have to at least make some attempts to do this myself.
 
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