Hello, been a member but never posted. I was searching for breeding thoughts on the Normani Lampeye (little grey fish with large blue eyes - Aplocheilichthys Normani?) and ran across this site and decided to respond since I've had a similar problem (as have others I've know).
Once in a while one or more of mine die after purchasing (and they are not cheap here in NYC if found at all) even though I take hours to slowly drip acclimate them in mature set up - I always take tons of water from store (tank) where I got them from. (I have a method that cycles in basically one day - use older filter floss with two filters one with older floss one new, some of water etc from mature tank, heavily planted and culture from established plants, wood so on, and bio bugs IF needed).
My ph is higher 7.8 - sometimes less depends on local water (fine for this fish if acclimated slow from softer store water - I take several days to transfer even from one of my tanks to another new set up) and water hard - hence the very slow transfer. That said occasionally when I get them in, one will be at top separate from school, then next day gone. I just don't have as you mention yourself, fish die off like this.
Below is a note on another forum that mentions shipping problems and die off as well with this fish. (as another poster mentioned).
I read on a board somewhere that this fish is tough but delicate (and mentioned if you've had them you will know what that means)... I get a pain in the gut every time one passes. And the staff where I get them here in NYC (when they have them) said the same when they've kept them at home - suddenly one will die after bringing them home!
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Ammonia burns the delicate tissues of the fishes gills and downhill from there as basically they can't breathe. It can look just like that red spot at the gill area (internal bleeding and swelling of tissue as blood vessels burst). Maybe as well a spike in water chemistry something or another as fish were added to a relatively new tank, a time perhaps when you hadn't tested (then it lowered? just hunting here - it doesn't take much to do damage).
Note paragraph two - hence the thought of ammonia spikes during shipping (not to mention other suppressors) and damage continues even if in zero ammonia later.
<<part of article below - At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress.
Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero.
When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop. >>
(in spite of my maturing tanks when ever I add fish all at once (rare but these ARE small) I still do very small partial water changes daily just in case there is a spike - too large a water change can cause problems as well, hence the daily very small - about ten percent or so - depends on stocking levels so on.
Also, a change in the bacterial composition of differing tanks (even one's own) can cause shock and fish die off. Hence the slow drip transfer with some of shops water then transfer dribble yours in. This helps a lot I've found. (not to mention ph differences).
But all said, it seems like gill damage due to poisoning and without a microscope and to dissect it is hard to identify if it were bacterial or parasite. Since I and others have problems which are similar I do think it is shippping/transfer stress and burns to gills due to bad shipping/water chemistry.
Also, with fish this small I would suggest not netting them mho - gills esp in fish this small collapse from weight of being in air and due further damage. (they are layers of delicate tissue and the smaller the fish the more harm when out of the water, even for a short period of time).
I have the staff at the store where I've found them (more expensive place) use a plastic tub (like soup container) and I do the same when transferring. Of if you do need to use a net, scoop the container under the net while they are still in the net but in the water and transfer them in that manner. They jump when scared....
Well nuf said and sorry if rambled on... I love this fish and really upsets me when they die for seemingly "no" reason... They are delicate just simply due to their small size but once acclimated and going seem to do rather well. Now if any one can help with breeding information, lol. Best Sherry
(first though, great link to article - scroll down a bit - on the various types of lampeyes)
http://www.aqualog.de/news/news_pdfen/news74e.pdf
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This poster mentions when he transfers this fish he has a die off rate within first several weeks.
http://www.petfrd.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-7290.html
lampeye
24-03-2006, 10:42 PM
Hm...the thread's only two years old...why not reply?
The fish pictured on the previous page are Poropanchax normani, formerly Aplocheilichthys normani. .......
They do NOT like higher temps - I'm sure they'd tolerate them well, but they would also "burn out" quickly if kept constantly warm.
A caveat - they don't seem to ship well. Most of the ones I've seen in stores have been badly underweight, and In the three times I've had them, I lose a significant portion (roughly 15%!) in the first week or so. After that, however, they seem almost bulletproof.
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Water poisoning
Description:
Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions.
Symptoms:
Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
Purple or red gills
Fish is lethargic
Loss of appetite
Fish lays at the bottom of the tank
Red streaking on the fins or body
Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly, or over a period of days. Initially the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding.
The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.
As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins.
Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.
Treatment:
Lower pH below 7.0
25 - 50% water change
Use chemical to neutralize ammonia
Discontinue or reduce feeding
If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately.
Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.
If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.
At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.
Nitrite Poisoning -
Nitrite is less toxic then ammonia, but still poses a significant health risk to the fish, and can be deadly in high doses or over long periods of time.
Nitrite enters the bloodstream of the fish and binds hemoglobin cells - the oxygen carrying vessels of the fish's body. In other words, high nitrite levels will suffocate the fish.
The cause for nitrite poisoning is the same as described with ammonia poisoning.
Symptoms -
Fish gasping for air at the water surface is generally a good sign of nitrite poisoning.
Treatment -
15% water change daily until the tank is cycled.