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Not Mechanically inclined Please explain.

1868 Views 13 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  chagovatoloco
All these are on Rex Grigg's Site, Please no Flaming i am NOT a Mister Fix it kinda guy and have NO CLUE what these things do. So Please Explain What each Does and Why its needed, i feel that i should have a base knowledge and Working understanding before i try to Set one of these up on my tank and kill everything with CO2 Poisoning!

Controlled Regulator

Needle Valve

Low Pressure Regulator



MK I Perma-seal
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A regulator allows you removal of the gas from the cylinder via a controlled method, rather than just opening up the valve and letting all the gas escape at once. A two stage (having two dials for tank pressure and outlet pressure) is better than a single stage regulator.

Allows for the fine control of the gas exiting the tank via the regulator. Without a needle valve you would be using way too much gas for your tank. It allows control down to a bubble per several seconds. Most folks run their tanks in the 1-2 bubbles per second range. Your water hardness and tank size will play a part in this.

Related to the answer in the first question. The 'second gauge' of the regulator.

This gives you the ability to run multiple tanks from one CO2 source. Think of it as a 'T' or a 'gang valve' type of apparatus.

An electronic device which will turn on and off the gas flow. Lots of folks will only run the CO2 when their lights are on. If you have hard water, you will find this doesn't do anything for you, as you will probably need to run it 24/7.

Think of this as an 'o-ring' to create a good seal between the regulator and the tank.

Sweet Thank you Bert! Is the Solenoid required or just good to have in Softer water areas? My water is 7.6 PH out of the tap, and add that to all the calcium in my tank = pretty darn hard water.
I hate to hijack the thread but can you elaborate a little more on running it 24/7 for people with hard water? What you define as hard water? I run Co2 for 8 hours and the drop checker is always green to yellow, even in the morning, and I'm using certified 4kH water. Should I try running it all day/night?
4KH isnt Hard water lol. Mine was PH 8.4, GH-15+, KH -23 that is What we call VERY HARD water.
This has me worried! When crushed coral is exposed to the elevated levels of acids via injecting pressurized CO2 you will accelerate the amounts of calcium dissolved into the water column. This could cause problems maintaining stable water parameter.
No worries i tore it all apart yesterday, their is now nothing but Pea Gravel in the bottom of the tank!
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