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Plants won't grow

315 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  w0walana
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I need help figuring out why my plants won't grow and why they're growing very slowly.

I have a 20 gallon long with a plenum and plain kitty litter, eco complete, and a bit of black sand as the substrate. i used some laterite in between the layers and aquarium co-op root tabs where i planted.

i have two nicrew skyled lights on the tank as well. (as of april, i am now running just one nicrew skyled for 4-4-4-12).

my main parameters before the plenum started to kick in were: 0/0/10-20, this was with salvinia and maybe one or two 5 gallon water changes since the reset. (i initially set up the tank in april 2022 and reset it in janauary this year. plants struggled to grow then too)

what do you think besides co2 deficiency?

this is what my plants looked like before
Plant Grass Grass family Road surface Groundcover

Plant Water Terrestrial plant Aquatic plant Grass

Plant Terrestrial plant Vegetation Flowerpot Grass

Water Plant Terrestrial plant Wood Grass




this is what my tank looks like currently; i added all the additional plants, they didn't grow naturally. :(
Water Vertebrate Liquid Plant Rectangle
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i am now running just one nicrew skyled for 4-4-4-12).
my main parameters before the plenum started to kick in were: 0/0/10-20
This information is is almost unusable because you don't tell us what the numbers represent. Please Clarify.


What doplants need to grow?
  • light
  • water
  • Air
  • nutrients
You have the first 2 But you made no mention of fertilizers. In order for plants to growth need Nitrogen, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, sulfur, chlorine, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, molybdenum, and nickel.

If just one is missing plants will not grow and will eventually die. in your case you likely have multiple deficiencies. these nutrients need to be soluble for plants to be able to absorb them. You only source of nutrients right now is fish waist and the substrate and weekly water changes. 9 small tetras probably are not generating enough fish waist. And there is no guaranty that your substrate has all the nutrients.

As to CO2 air has CO2 and oxygen your fish would be dead in a day if there was no air dissolved in the water. YOU can increase oxygen and CO2 levels by mixing more air with the water. YOU can increase air water mixing by lifting your water spray bare right up to the surface or or a little above the surface. Or you can use an air pump to create bubbles in the water. Based on my own observations in my aquarium and on forums CO2 is the least likely cause of your problems.
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This information is is almost unusable because you don't tell us what the numbers represent. Please Clarify.


What doplants need to grow?
  • light
  • water
  • Air
  • nutrients
You have the first 2 But you made no mention of fertilizers. In order for plants to growth need Nitrogen, potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphate, sulfur, chlorine, iron, manganese, boron, zinc, molybdenum, and nickel.

If just one is missing plants will not grow and will eventually die. in your case you likely have multiple deficiencies. these nutrients need to be soluble for plants to be able to absorb them. You only source of nutrients right now is fish waist and the substrate and weekly water changes. 9 small tetras probably are not generating enough fish waist. And there is no guaranty that your substrate has all the nutrients.

As to CO2 air has CO2 and oxygen your fish would be dead in a day if there was no air dissolved in the water. YOU can increase oxygen and CO2 levels by mixing more air with the water. YOU can increase air water mixing by lifting your water spray bare right up to the surface or or a little above the surface. Or you can use an air pump to create bubbles in the water. Based on my own observations in my aquarium and on forums CO2 is the least likely cause of your problems.
okay time to get more in depth (the parameters were the basic ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate btw)

here's the stocking:
11 green neon tetras
9 khuli loaches
2 hillstream loaches
1 small gourami
3 nerite snails
3 amano shrimp
1 mystery snail

my nitrates are usually 5ppm or less these days but even when they were 20ppm and higher plants weren't growing well, except the pearlweed lol. I used aquarium co-op easy green sparingly as well. my tap water has ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in it along with phosphates that are off the charts (10ppm+) so i really doubt that it's lacking in trace elements. potassium is the only thing i don't know about and tests for that are unavailable right now. either way, other forums suggested getting seachem advance and i did. i also bought seachem flourish just in case as well. just yesterday, i bought nitrogen and potassium and dosed those along with flourish according to an EI dosing calculator. I don't plan on doing weekly water changes, I just wanted to cover my bases and hope i've added enough nutrients to get things growing. if not, i'm planning to reset the tank again and try the walstad method.
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anyone else have thoughts?
You'll have to settle with slow plant growth. Plants need light, nutrients, water, and CO2 to grow. Seems like you have most of it covered but if you want fast growth, add CO2.
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i really doubt that it's lacking in trace elements.
Trace elements are hard to keep soluble. They quickly oxidize and become insoluble. And as a result plants cannot use them The fertilizers you listed all have trace ingredients the The react with carbonate in the water and within 24 hours will no longer be available for plants. So Easy green and Flourish should be dosed more frequently rather than once a day or every other day. So there isa very good chance you don't have enough trace nutrients.

my tap water has ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in it along with phosphates that are off the charts (10ppm+)
If your tap water why is your tank registering zero ammonia? Are you using filtered water (RO, softened water) or something else? If your are using filtered water there is a very good chance that is your problem. Most fertilizers don't have all the nutrients plants need to grow. The manufactures assume those nutrients are in your tap water.
Trace elements are hard to keep soluble. They quickly oxidize and become insoluble. And as a result plants cannot use them The fertilizers you listed all have trace ingredients the The react with carbonate in the water and within 24 hours will no longer be available for plants. So Easy green and Flourish should be dosed more frequently rather than once a day or every other day. So there isa very good chance you don't have enough trace nutrients.



If your tap water why is your tank registering zero ammonia? Are you using filtered water (RO, softened water) or something else? If your are using filtered water there is a very good chance that is your problem. Most fertilizers don't have all the nutrients plants need to grow. The manufactures assume those nutrients are in your tap water.
I rarely do water changes and just mostly do top ups. no, i don't use filtered water. how often are you saying to fertilize?
If you just add water to compensate for water evaporation salts and minerals will buildup over time and eventually kill everything in your tank. Plants and fish. A good natural example of this is mono Lake Currently the only things that can live n the water are brine flies, brine shrimp. and algae . Eventually the future nothing will be able to live in its water.

So you need to do water changes to remove the bade stuff in the water. Also tap water adds minerals like Calcium, magnesium, boron, zinc, copper, and nickel. Most fertilizers either don't have these plant nutrients or the fertilizer just don't have enough. Just occasionally adding water results in plant using up all the nutrients in the water that are not in your fertilizer. So the plants will not grow most of the time.

Many people monitor the water harness (GH test) to insure that the water conditions are stable. You should do this to insure the waterGH stays consistent with your well water hardness. The GH test primarily detect only Calcium and magnesium. You Should also monitor your water alkalinity (carbonate levels (KH). and water PH. The goal is to a water change schedule and to keep these parameters stable.

Nutrients in the water (Calcium, magnesium, phosphate and boron) can .react with each other resulting in nutrient shoartages. PH and KH can also insteract with the sulfate nutrients in the fertertize and the iron ingredient. These can also result in nutrient shortages. If your PH less than 6.5 and KH is zero most fertilizers will work and you likely would only need to fertilize once every water change. But it can be diffiult to maintain zero kH and a low PH.

EI fertilizer dosing works for many people mainly because nutrients are dosed almost daily. The main problem people have with EI dosing is that not all fertilizers include all Nutrients resulting in nutrient deficiencies. Also most fertilizers use iron gluconate which only lasts few days or Iron EDTA with is only usable in water with a PH 6.5 or less. Iron DTPA is the best iron ingredient since it is stable up to a PH of 7.5 and maybe even be stable up to a PH of 8. Many people state CO2 is the most common deficiency but that statement is wrong. CO2 changes water PH and since most EI fertilizers have Iron EDTA keeping CO2 levels high is needed to Keep PH low enough for the fertilizer to work.

In your case you want to use a fertilizer with no nitrogen and no phosphate since you know your water has these. Probably the best commercially available fertilizer for you is GLA EDTA+DTPA micro fertilizer. This is them most commonly used EI micro fertilizer with Iron DTPA added to allow it to be used at the higher PH of most tap water. If your water has a low GH you might need to also add a GH booster. Or you can used the fertilizer your have but dose them more frequently.

You need to work out a fertilizer and water change routing that works for you. With all your fish you might be able to get by with less frequent water changes and and a lower overall fertilizer dose. But the only way to do that is to experiment until you find a water change method and fertilizer dose that works for your.
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If you just add water to compensate for water evaporation salts and minerals will buildup over time and eventually kill everything in your tank. Plants and fish. A good natural example of this is mono Lake Currently the only things that can live n the water are brine flies, brine shrimp. and algae . Eventually the future nothing will be able to live in its water.

So you need to do water changes to remove the bade stuff in the water. Also tap water adds minerals like Calcium, magnesium, boron, zinc, copper, and nickel. Most fertilizers either don't have these plant nutrients or the fertilizer just don't have enough. Just occasionally adding water results in plant using up all the nutrients in the water that are not in your fertilizer. So the plants will not grow most of the time.

Many people monitor the water harness (GH test) to insure that the water conditions are stable. You should do this to insure the waterGH stays consistent with your well water hardness. The GH test primarily detect only Calcium and magnesium. You Should also monitor your water alkalinity (carbonate levels (KH). and water PH. The goal is to a water change schedule and to keep these parameters stable.

Nutrients in the water (Calcium, magnesium, phosphate and boron) can .react with each other resulting in nutrient shoartages. PH and KH can also insteract with the sulfate nutrients in the fertertize and the iron ingredient. These can also result in nutrient shortages. If your PH less than 6.5 and KH is zero most fertilizers will work and you likely would only need to fertilize once every water change. But it can be diffiult to maintain zero kH and a low PH.

EI fertilizer dosing works for many people mainly because nutrients are dosed almost daily. The main problem people have with EI dosing is that not all fertilizers include all Nutrients resulting in nutrient deficiencies. Also most fertilizers use iron gluconate which only lasts few days or Iron EDTA with is only usable in water with a PH 6.5 or less. Iron DTPA is the best iron ingredient since it is stable up to a PH of 7.5 and maybe even be stable up to a PH of 8. Many people state CO2 is the most common deficiency but that statement is wrong. CO2 changes water PH and since most EI fertilizers have Iron EDTA keeping CO2 levels high is needed to Keep PH low enough for the fertilizer to work.

In your case you want to use a fertilizer with no nitrogen and no phosphate since you know your water has these. Probably the best commercially available fertilizer for you is GLA EDTA+DTPA micro fertilizer. This is them most commonly used EI micro fertilizer with Iron DTPA added to allow it to be used at the higher PH of most tap water. If your water has a low GH you might need to also add a GH booster. Or you can used the fertilizer your have but dose them more frequently.

You need to work out a fertilizer and water change routing that works for you. With all your fish you might be able to get by with less frequent water changes and and a lower overall fertilizer dose. But the only way to do that is to experiment until you find a water change method and fertilizer dose that works for your.
thank you for the info! i have RO water that I use for top ups and i use my tap water for water changes. i like using flourish because it's basically a micro fertilizer as the NPK are very minimal. i may look into what you recommended when i run out. this tank is due for a water change (my gh has increased) but since adding some nitrogen, potassium, and flourish, i've spotted a new shoot of the sagittaria! finally got some growth lol
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