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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After using the Nutrafin Ladder system for smaller tanks with good success, I decided to take a plunge on pressurized CO2 for a new 55 Gallon tank. I also bought a bunch of new toys, too. Unfortunately, I am running into a major roadblock in the setup. :croc: There aren't too many aquarium stores out here Las Vegas who have been able to provide much information. I kind of feel way over my head right now.

Qx 1.
I purchased the Red Sea CO2 Prosystem for Paintball system (I was told you can hook it up to both Paintball canisters and the larger CO2 canister) for my new 55 Gallon. How do you convert it to use the standard 5lbs or 10lbs CO2 canister instead? How would one do this? What additional parts do I need to buy. Diagrams would be much appreciated. Also do I need one them glass diffusers. According to the kit all I needed was a CO2 tank since this was a complete system.

Qx 2. BTW I would like to run the output of the Eheim canister through the Aquastep then back to the tank, is that feasible?

My new tank is a 55 Gallon, Coralife Compact Flourescent 260 Watts, Eheim Classic 2217, Aquastep UV sterilizer 10Watts.

Thanks a bunch.

Kevin
 

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Qx 1. I don't know.

Qx 2: I don't think it's a good idea. The output flow of a canister filter will be too high for UV sterilization working efficiently. The method of using a small, prefiltere adjustable low flow powerhead for the UV system will give you flexibility as far as the multiple uses UV sterilization could provide (parasites 5-10GPH per watt; bacterial/fungal 20-30GPH per watt; algae 40-50GPH per watt).

So if you use a 5W UV you would aim at lower GPH than if 13W UV.

Hope this helps. I took this info from the following link, which helped me in my first UV setup:
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumUVSterilization.html

Pepe
Santo Domingo
 

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Qx 2. BTW I would like to run the output of the Eheim canister through the Aquastep then back to the tank, is that feasible?

My new tank is a 55 Gallon, Coralife Compact Flourescent 260 Watts, Eheim Classic 2217, Aquastep UV sterilizer 10Watts.

Thanks a bunch.

Kevin
You should have no problem running your UV from the output from your filter. You just need a bypass.

I've uploaded this pic a few times and it seems to disappear after a short time. If you cannot see it, PM me and I'll send it to you directly.

RTP
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the response. The website was helpful pepetj. Thanks ray-the-pilot for the suggestion; pm sent.
 

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Not sure if you got a reply to your question.

I think the paintball setup has a different connector than the 5 & 10 lb cylinders. I have a 10 lb cylinder which comes with a valve that fits my Victor SR253B-320 Single Stage Medium Duty CO2 regulator. The connector is CGA-320 which is made for CO2 gas (as oppose to other regulators made for other industrial use gases).

My regulator connects directly to the valve on top of the tank / cylinder. See link to regulator http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=376896&WT.svl=376896

There is a connector (about 7 o'clock) which is where I connect my solenoid (electronic switch) that turns CO2 on and off. To connect the solenoid to the regulator required that replace the brass connector that came with the regulator for a different piece to interface the two properly. Ease to find.

Then I connected my Ideal Needle Valve Model 52-1-12 to the solenoid. The needle valve is a true piece of art work. Love this valve. Extremely smooth and accurate. I can regulate bubbles down to fractions of bubbles with this guy. Again, brass connectors purchased separately from local hardware store required.

Then I connected a bubble counter, followed by tubing to a check valve, then more tubing followed by the Aqua Medic Reactor 500 in the tank.

This is one way to do it. There are many other ways from what I have read. Do what ever makes you happy and gets the results you want.

Some of what I purchased will be viewed as overkill (which it would be if you paid retail price for them). I use them because I got them at rediculous prices and I like to know that I'm using high quality stuff.

Some of these devices aren't even necessary.
 

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The Red Sea paintball regulator will thread on to a standard tank, but it won't seal properly. Maybe adding some extra o-rings would work, but I think there is too much pressure before the regulator to successfully rig it. The other problem is that there is no way to swivel it, like a regular regulator, so it could end up pointing in a bad direction and you couldn't read the pressure. I would switch it for the "standard cylinder" version if you still can.
 

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I remember seeing a valve for paintball CO2 canisters that converted them to be able to connect to regular CO2 fittings. It was an on/off valve of some sort.

Found it...http://www.sakworldpaintball.com/inonval.html. It's an on/off valve. Eliminates the function of the pin so that the CO2 can acts like a normal CO2 tank.

It'll be useful for the Red Sea CO2 system.
 

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Both paintball and large co2 tanks use cga-320 threads. For paintball its called an asa. For large tanks there is a hole in the middle with an o-ring or gasket of some sort around it. For paintball there is a pin the middle with a small hole off to the side and and o-ring around the side where the threads are.

 
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