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Discussion Starter #1
I was toying with the idea of removing the top plastic rim of a 29g tank I have. Somewhere or other I remember seeing a note that Tom Barr has done this - but I searched and was unable to locate the article. Maybe I was dreaming. Has anyone had any experience of doing this? The idea of a rimless aquarium is artistically appealing - the idea of a 29g carpet swamp is, of course, something else.

Andrew Cribb
 

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I've done this but only to fix a broken brace, I used a box cutter to cut the silicon between the rim and glass, then used a lot of force to tear it out. But I wouldn't suggest filling the tank without the rim, the glass used in these tanks is very thin and it relies on the rim and/or brace to stop it from bowing out and possibly cracking the glass. You might be better off making your own tank using thicker glass.

Hope that helps
Giancarlo Podio
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I think that does answer my question. I notice that a 30g AGA aquarium I have bows about 0.75" in the center. Maybe I will think of ordering something from glass cages instead.

Andrew
 

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I was thinking the same thing just yesterday (removing the rim) but although I think that my tank will not bow without it I bet that the silicone at the very top of the glass is very ugly.

Some tanks have a big blob of silicone inside the corners meant hold the plastic rim in place. Removing the rim and dressing the cured silicone will not look good.

--Nikolay
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was thinking of trying this on a 10g tank (rather than the 29g) I picked up for a few $ at a tag sale. I imagine a 10g tank should not have bowing issues like the larger ones.

Andrew Cribb
 

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I tried it on a ten and broke the glass. You can scrap off all the silicone when you do.

You can get a tank custom made trim less, but its expensive.
 

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I did it on my 20g long Pencilfish biotope in last year's AGA. You can see the tank in the showcase. I wouldn't go any longer than 30" without some sort of bracing, even if it's just a 1/2" glass strip across the middle. Be careful with the inner edge of the glass after removing the rim. They don't sand them down and they're VERY sharp. I ended up with many many small cuts after doing my tank.

Best,
Phil
 

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Having done more times than I like to admit, smaller tankls work out fairly well, I'd shy away from the 29gal size though.
A 20 H or a 10 gal is fine.

The Oceanic 30 cube will work.

I used a jack to pop the last bit off. It's not an easy thing to do.

Generally, most folks like the custom made glass tanks.

But if you are cheap, popping them off may be right for you.

If the tank bows, then you'll need a glass center brace, still looks better than that ugly rim.

As far as globs of silicone.........you will use a razor to cut and skim the silicone away.

Do not rush or force things too much. Take your time working the rim off from both sides.

Larger tanks like a 75 are more difficult.

Do not do tall tank or very long tanks without braces.
You can have these braces made for a few $ at most glass shops.

Use a couple of grades of sand paper(power sanders are the best for this) to create a nice smooth edge.

You can add the brances on top or on the inside of the tank also.

Use tape to cover the areas you do not want silicone on and make sure you have plenty of pressure on the seals while they dry and give the full 24-36 hours for the full cure.

Use only clean razor blades, these will never scracth the glass.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the good advice from Tom and all.

Being in a cheap mode, I will attempt the 10g and post some photos when done - if done without too much bloodshed...

But I might still order something from glass cages - though I do not much like the look of their silicone work in the sample photos on their web site.

Andrew Cribb
 
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