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Rotala indica

6K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  tsunami 
#1 ·
I have some Rotala indica, and my problem is that all the new growth is green but the plant should be red. Is this a lack of nutrients or can it be a light issue? I have 260 watts over a 75 gallon.
Dosing regimen....
Monday=5ml seachem nitrogen,2ml phosphorus
Tuesday=5ml iron,2ml TMG
Wednesday=10percent water change,2ml nitrogen,1-2ml phosphorus
Thursday=5ml iron,2ml TMG
Friday=2ml iron
Saturday=off
Sunday=2ml TMG
CO2---2 Bubbles a sec.

Is this good dosing? If not, can you give me an idea what I should change?
 
#4 ·
I would not suggest that you test for iron at all.

Use mls per/gal per unit time(days per week etc).

This is consistent and othert things influence iron and other traces such as alkalinity and different chelators(ETDA, DTPE, Gluconate etc).

PO4 and NO3 test kits are not that good unless you spend a fair amount.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
#7 ·
That is rotundifolia (that can have 2 or 3 leaves per node). Rotundifolia was introduced as indica over 40 years ago, but unfortunately, some sellers still insist on selling it under the incorrect name, thus needlessly perpetuating an error and causing confusion.

Rotala indica is a real plant, but I don't think anyone here really knows what it looks like (myself included).

I don't know what kit you're using, but if your nitrates really are that high, that might explain the green growth.
 
#9 ·
Yes, but not lower than around 5 or so. 10 would be a good level to shoot for. However, I suggest you invest in a better kit.

More iron isn't going to hurt your cause (but at least for that plant should play a lesser role in coloration). I'd say you could add at least twice that much without any concern. 10ml a week on a 75 isn't very much at all.

You only change 10% of the water a week?

Edit: but not lowerthan around 5. Sorry 'bout that! :oops:
 
#10 ·
Flourish Nitrogen was not a success for me in NYC water. When I switched to KNO3 (from Greg Watson) I was much better able to control dosing levels and understand by observing plants what was happening. Normal NO3 tests (even Seachem's) do not tell you what levels you are achieving by dosing Flourish Nitrogen.

Andrew Cribb
 
#19 ·
sorry....missed that out..

here it is..

Beginners Info Sheet
--------------------

Tank Dimensions (LxWxH): 24"x12"x15"

Tank Volume (litres or gallons): 70L

Lighting Intensity(No of Watts) : 60W

Type of Lighting (FL/PL/MH) : 1x40W PL & 1x20WFL

No. of Hours your light is on : 10 hrs

CO2 Injection Rate (bps) : 3bps

Type of CO2 (DIY/Liquid/Tank) : 2.5L cylinder

Method of Injection (e.g. Diffusor/Reactor): bioball reactor

Substrate Used :

How Thick is your base fert : 2cm

How thick is your gravel : 3" front and 4" back

Liquid Fertilizers Used : nutrafin plant gro & sera florapol

Frequency of fertilization : divided into 3 times a week according dosage

Tank Temperature : 25C (morning) & 27C (night)

Type of Filter (overhead/internal/canister) : eheim 2213 canister

Filter media used : biohome sintered glass

How long has your tank been set up : around 20 days

Other equipment : surface skimmer

Chemical Properties (Fill what you can)
---------------------------------------
Carbonate Hardness (KH):
Total Hardness (gH):

pH : 7.0-7.2

NH4 (ppm):
NO2 (ppm):
NO3 (ppm):
PO4 (ppm):
Fe (ppm):

Bioload (Your Fish and Plants)
------------------------------

8 amano shrimps

Plants include,
2 unknown
rotala indica
blyxa japonica
echinodorus tenellus
glossostigma elatinoides
hiemanthus micranthemoides
micranthemum umbrosum
rotala walichii
cyperus helferi

it used to be like this when i first got it:

 
#20 ·
My recently aquired R. indica looks just like the last picture. It is still growing like that in my tank. So this is the REAL R. indica? btw, I got it from Ocean Aquarium in SF. My previous R. rotundifolia(indica) is much paler/greener.
 
#21 ·
I do not think it is a good idea to make an assumption like that whether it is rotoundfolia or indica. lets just say it is Rotoundfolia (The most common by far). Nutrients level will affect color radically. Now to fix your problem, Check to see co2 is 25-35, If it is good raise KNO3 dosages, if still no improvement raise KH2PO4 dosages. If nothing has happend maybe add a little Potassium. It does not look like a trace defeciency. Thoughs are usually obviouse from White new growth. if you have White new growth add more Iron + traces.


That is the best i know to tell you.
 
#23 ·
A week to be sure. Here is what i do, Tom barr recommended this fertilization regimne to me.

Sunday: 6ppm NO3 from KNO3, 1.9ppm PO4 from KH2PO4
Monday: Flourish + Flourish Iron
Tuesday:6ppm NO3 from KNO3, 1.9ppm PO4 from KH2PO4
Wednesday:Flourish + Flourish Iron
Thursday:6ppm NO3 from KNO3, 1.9ppm PO4 from KH2PO4
Friday:Flourish + Flourish Iron
Saturday:6ppm NO3 from KNO3, 1.9ppm PO4 from KH2PO4
Sunday:6ppm NO3 from KNO3, 1.9ppm PO4 from KH2PO4 (After WC)

Works good for me. Our light levels are pretty similar. I dont know about your bioload, i have 11 otos in my tank right now, that is all. The shrimp should not add much ammonium or anything. So i would say try that if you dont want to do all this guess and check.
 
#25 ·
Just to chime in on a small detail, there is a Rotala rotundifolia "Colorata" circulating outside of the United States in countries of Asia and Europe.

More information can be obtained from the Dennerle website:

www.dennerle.com

This is the bright red "rotundifolia" Takashi Amano has been using in his layouts. What we have in the United States is a more toned down variety.

Carlos
 
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