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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is for the people using Seachem's Flourish line of products. It's a Microsoft Office Excel based Seachem Dosing Calculator/Chart that is based on the following dosing schedule. It calculates the formula out to 4 decimal places and then rounds them to one decimal place. It uses US gallons for it's calculations.

This calculator will work for most aquariums the way that it is set up now, but it can be easily changed.

If you want to dose a small aquarium and/or you want more accuracy, you can highlight each cell that shows the dosing amounts by clicking on the mouse and holding down on the Ctrl key. Then click on the increase decimal places button to change how many decimal places that you want it to show. It is set at 1 decimal place now. The gallons amount that you enter can have many decimal places.

Most people can't use that accuracy because they don't have the correct equipment. That's why it is set up for 0.1 mL. Most of us can measure down to 0.1 mL.

The gallons to liters and the liters to gallons calculators work too. Again, they are based on US gallons.

 

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Thank you for posting this. This is actually really easy to follow, I just tried it out. It will certainly be very helpful for those who aren't used to dosing the correct suggested amounts. It will be nice for us "lazy people" :) THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Yoshi

I used this calculator/chart for 2 years just to see how it works long term. It worked great with one minor problem. My Barclaya longifolia would sometimes have pinholes indicating a potassium deficiency and I would have to add a little extra F. Potassium. The Barclaya longifolia was the only plant that ever had pinholes. The other plants never did. I guess it needs a little more potassium than the other plants.

If you want to view the formulas used, you can use Excel's unhide feature for this. Since it is in Excel; you can customize it as needed for your application(s). You have the option of changing any of the formulas as needed.

I hope it helps you and many other people out.

Left C
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Using - Mixing Dry Chemicals for Seachem's Dosing

Seachem's products are a little expensive, but they are very good. I know some people would like to cut the cost some and use some of the dry fertilizers that are available.

The following dosing solutions will be practically the same strength as Seachem's macronutrient products according to the online calculators. You then go by Seachem's recommended dosing amounts on the calculator.

Dosing Solutions
- Add 62.2 grams or 11⅛ tsp of KNO3 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Nitrogen Substitute
- Add 3.5 grams or ¾ tsp of KH2PO4 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Phosphorus Substitute
- Add 51.0 grams or 8½ tsp of K2SO4 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Potassium Substitute*

*(This amount approaches the maximum solubility of K2SO4 of 12 grams per 100 mL of distilled water. You will probably need to shake the container each time prior to dosing.)

Online Calculators Used:
http://www.fishfriend.com/fertfriend.html
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_p...osage_calc.htm
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/fertilator.php

IMO, you may omit F. Trace even though it is included in the calculator.

I do not have a substitute for Flourish, F. Excel and F. Iron at this time.

I hope this helps you. Let me know if it works well.

Left C
 

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Thanks for posting all of this. I just had one question, which is probably a product of my cro-magnon computational skills.

In your directions for mixing up a batch of KH2P04 equivalent to Seachem Phosphorous, you say to add 3/4 tsp of KH2P04 to 500 ml of distilled water.

I read in a sticky on the Tom Barr forum that Greg Watson's advice for dosing a 60-80 gallon tank with the DI method is to add +/- 3/16 tsp of KH2PO4 3 times a week. That's about 1/2 a tsp of KH2PO4 a week or, according to your formula, about 3/4 of a 500 ml bottle of Seachem Flourish. Is that right?

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for posting all of this. I just had one question, which is probably a product of my cro-magnon computational skills.

In your directions for mixing up a batch of KH2P04 equivalent to Seachem Phosphorous, you say to add 3/4 tsp of KH2P04 to 500 ml of distilled water.

I read in a sticky on the Tom Barr forum that Greg Watson's advice for dosing a 60-80 gallon tank with the DI method is to add +/- 3/16 tsp of KH2PO4 3 times a week.
Hi Mike

You're welcome.

Don't confuse this dosing plan with EI, PPS, PPS-Pro, etc. It is a separate dosing plan altogether different that Seachem has provided using their ferts. I just used the online calculators to use dry ferts for their liquid ferts in the Using - Mixing Dry Chemicals for Seachem's Dosing part of this thread.

These solutions are not based on the EI dosing plan or any other dosing plan. They are solely based on the Seachem Calculator/Chart at their recommended levels that are provided in the very first post as an Excel spread sheet attachment.

This is a lean dosing plan and you can adjust it as needed.

That's about 1/2 a tsp of KH2PO4 a week or, according to your formula, about 3/4 of a 500 ml bottle of Seachem Flourish. Is that right?

Thanks,

Mike
Seachem's Flourish is basically a micronutrient fert with a small amount of macro ferts mixed in. I'm sure that you meant to say Flourish Phosphorus instead.

Have I got your question answered?

Left C
 

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Thanks for posting this info. I have been using seachem stuff for a while (excel, flourish, iron). I have been using excel since I didn't have co2. I just added pressurized co2. Does one still use excel in addition to co2?

Also a 5% water change seems small compared to what I have been reading? A lot of the methods that I have been reading about suggest much larger changes. I am still in the learning stage so this is definitely a question and not a judgement. If you changed a larger % of the water it would throw the whole regimen off right?

Basically I am trying to get my tank more dialed in and am trying to decide on a fert. method and I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the options.
 

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The dosing chart is what is recommended by Seachem but it isn't necessarily appropriate for all circumstances. I actually use yeast-generated CO2 injection on two tanks that I also dose with Excel although with a pressurized CO2 system that probably wouldn't be needed. I only use a third of the recommended amount of Flourish in tanks planted only with Anubias since they require much less nutrients. I also do a 20% to 25% PWC every weekend. Basically I suggest you experiment with your tank and check nutrient levels with a test kit. That way you can change as indicated.
 

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ok, so now I'm a little confused. I am just in the beginning of having a planted tank. I have had plants in my tank for awhile now, but decided to jump in and go for a "full" planted tank.

I have added 15 lbs. of red ferite approx. 3+" to my 29gl. tall tank with an additional 2" of course sand. I have a full population of fish in the tank. Dose with DIY Co2, and have approx. 30 plants just placed in the tank. T5 HO 68 watts.

This section of the forum has been confusing me with the large amounts of ferts. used, along with the large water changes. It reminds me of hydroponic growing methods using a passive substrate. I also understand that this is a general rule, and dosing and water changes vary from tank to tank.

Is it based on not having fish waste as a natural fertilizer?

Is this a general way to "super charge" your plants growth rate?

Sorry if this is a naive post, just getting started, and love the planted tanks.

Thanks

Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Todd

OK, so now I'm a little confused. I am just in the beginning of having a planted tank. I have had plants in my tank for awhile now, but decided to jump in and go for a "full" planted tank.

I have added 15 lbs. of red Flourite approx. 3+" to my 29gl. tall tank with an additional 2" of course sand. I have a full population of fish in the tank. Dose with DIY CO2, and have approx. 30 plants just placed in the tank. T5 HO 68 watts.

This section of the forum has been confusing me with the large amounts of ferts. used, along with the large water changes. It reminds me of hydroponic growing methods using a passive substrate. I also understand that this is a general rule, and dosing and water changes vary from tank to tank.
It can be a little overwhelming.

Here's an article called "Introduction to Fertilizers for a Planted Tank" by Chuck. It helps greatly, but there's many more similar to it that's around: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_fertilizer_intro.htm

Ben Bolton wrote a good one too: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/new-planted-aquariums/8790-basics.html

Is it based on not having fish waste as a natural fertilizer?
The aquarium plant growing methods and knowledge about them are note quite up to the technology of hydroponics and the crops that we grow on land. There's many fert dosing plans and methods around. The lighting levels used and your CO2 levels used are two of the main reason why there are so many methods. The type of water that you have and the substrate used are also part of the diversion.

Many people are using more lighting and fish waste usually don't supply all the nutrients that aquatic plants need and in the amounts of the macro and micro ferts that they require.

But, you can try it with the "Diana Walstad method." Check out her book called Ecology of the Planted Aquarium or the El Natural forum here at APC: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/

Is this a general way to "super charge" your plants growth rate?
Sure there is. Light is the gas peddle, so to speak. Increase your lighting, add CO2 at a level around 30 ppm or so and dose correctly. They grow like weeds then.

Sorry if this is a naive post, just getting started, and love the planted tanks.

Thanks

Todd
That's fine and you are welcome, Todd. We were all new at this at one time.

I hope that this helps you some. This Seachem dosing plan is easy to follow and while it's a little expensive, it works fine. It's the method that I started with, but like I said earlier, there are more dosing methods to try if you want. Most of the dosing methods have to be tuned to each tank anyway. EI and PPS-Pro are used by many people.

You can get the products if you want. Then you punch in 25 gallons in this calculator for your 29 gallon aquarium and follow that dosing plan and you're good to go. You can adjust it as needed though. The 25 gallons is the approximate water volume in a 29 gallon aquarium, by the way (29 gallons x 85% = 25 gallons).

Good luck and I hope that I helped you some.

Left C
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for posting this info. I have been using Seachem stuff for a while (excel, flourish, iron). I have been using excel since I didn't have CO2. I just added pressurized CO2. Does one still use excel in addition to CO2?

Also a 5% water change seems small compared to what I have been reading? A lot of the methods that I have been reading about suggest much larger changes. I am still in the learning stage so this is definitely a question and not a judgment. If you changed a larger % of the water it would throw the whole regimen off right?

Basically I am trying to get my tank more dialed in and am trying to decide on a fert. method and I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the options.
The Seachem chart says to do 5% water changes.

I did 50% weekly water changes and followed the dosing plan on the chart. It worked fine.

When I did the calculator, I put in 50% weekly water changes.

You can dose Excel with CO2 if you want, but I would lower the dosing amounts. If you want to discontinue dosing Excel, that'll work too.
 

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Left C,

I just want to thank you for all of your help (on several websites) in understanding Seachem vs Dry Ferts and how to convert, Mix and Dose. You've made life easier.

I like Seachem products but they are more expensive so I will now be able to use them up and convert over to Dry Ferts, thanks to you.
 

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This is a great chart and plan for the beginner. I used it for the first year I was in the hobby. My only issue was that it tends to be a bit on the lean side. Not enough to create major problems but I had to up the doses just a bit. However, I also have very soft water with not much in it out of the tap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is a great chart and plan for the beginner. I used it for the first year I was in the hobby. My only issue was that it tends to be a bit on the lean side. Not enough to create major problems but I had to up the doses just a bit. However, I also have very soft water with not much in it out of the tap.
It's in Excel format and you can adjust each nutrient by any amount that you would like. This calculator is based strictly on Seachem's dosing recommendations. Higher lighting and higher CO2 and nutrients would certainly require more.

If you need to know how to adjust it, just PM me and I will help you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's in Excel format and you can adjust each nutrient by any amount that you would like. This calculator is based strictly on Seachem's dosing recommendations. Higher lighting and higher CO2 and nutrients would certainly require more. It works very good for Seachem procuts at many lighting and CO2 levels.

If you need to know how to adjust it, just PM me and I will help you.
Using - Mixing Dry Chemicals for Seachem's Dosing

Seachem's products are a little expensive, but they are very good. I know some people would like to cut the cost some and use some of the dry fertilizers that are available.

The following dosing solutions will be practically the same strength as Seachem's macronutrient products according to the online calculators. You then go by Seachem's recommended dosing amounts on the calculator.

Dosing Solutions
- Add 62.2 grams or 11⅛ tsp of KNO3 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Nitrogen Substitute
- Add 3.5 grams or ¾ tsp of KH2PO4 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Phosphorus Substitute
- Add 51.0 grams or 8½ tsp of K2SO4 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Potassium Substitute*

*(This amount approaches the maximum solubility of K2SO4 of 12 grams per 100 mL of distilled water. You will probably need to shake the container each time prior to dosing.)

Online Calculators Used:
http://www.fishfriend.com/fertfriend.html
http://www.fishfriend.com/fertfriend.html
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_p...osage_calc.htm
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/fertilator.php

IMO, you may omit F. Trace even though it is included in the calculator.

I do not have a substitute for Flourish, F. Excel and F. Iron at this time.

I hope this helps you. Let me know if it works well. It has worked well for me over four years.

Left C
Arx Arx
 

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I'm just getting started with the planted tank concept, and haven't tried using anything beyond Flourish and Excel, but is there a reason that you can't mix a solution of all these products and dose daily. It would be much easier to be accurate with a smaller tank.
 

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If you mix the F. phosphourus and F. iron the iron will drop out of solution and/or form iron phosphate which really doesnt dissolve in water. So dose to the tank water and you wont have any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here's a bit more info. You can put it on your computer and since that calculator is Excel 2003 based, you can use all of Excel's features to modify it. You can use the unhide feature to view it. You can adjust the individual formulas any way that you want. You can add more products like Equilibrium, their Buffers, MgSO4, MgSO4∙7H2O, CaCl2, CaCl2∙2H2O, CaCO3, NaHCO3 or anything else that you want to add or do. You can also add a calculator that converts dH to ppm and vice versa.

Left C

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