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Why dont you put the plants you lvoe most straight in the tank instead of using big stem plant and then remove it later? I m a beginner and i tied my moss straight to the wood . So, Excessive lightsmeans more algae and less lights less algae ? or is it the other way round ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
kweeheng said:
Why dont you put the plants you lvoe most straight in the tank instead of using big stem plant and then remove it later? I m a beginner and i tied my moss straight to the wood . So, Excessive lightsmeans more algae and less lights less algae ? or is it the other way round ?
You should pack a tank full of plants when starting out. That allows the plants to "outcompete" the algae. As an added bonus, the faster growing plants will reproduce faster and allow you to either sell them to get more "expensive" plants or give them away to others who are starting up tanks.

The more light you have over a tank the more chances you have to get algae. Light drives the plants uptake of nutrients (CO2, NO3, PO4, etc) so the higher light leaves you less wiggle room on fertilizing. I have found the hardest part of my high ligt tanks is maintainng CO2 levels, even though I have a pressurized system. More light is not always better and I prefer to keep my tanks right around 2wpg or so ;) I have not found many plant that will not grow in this light range though some do grow better with a bit more light.
 

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Much agreed with what Matt said. I forget to fert every day, but my plants do well as long as i keep the Duck weed at bay. I do wish I had some other kelven, alittle red would be nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
ctmpwrdcamry said:
Much agreed with what Matt said. I forget to fert every day, but my plants do well as long as i keep the Duck weed at bay. I do wish I had some other kelven, alittle red would be nice.
You should be able to find some GE Fresh and Saltwater bulbs online. I don't remember where I found mine right now but it didn't take too much searching. You have the T-8 lights don you?
 

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Yeah, i think so. Whateve those big cheapo light fixture hold. :p

I have some GE bulbs on the 37 and they really help bring out the red plants.
 

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I have two extra 50 lb bags of soil master select that I am willing to exchange for some plants at the June meeting if anyone is interested or possibly donate to the club. Anyone have suggestions for the 125 gallon tank for the June meeting. I am going to make this a discus tank as well. I do not want to get to out of hand on the plants though. I want the two to flow together and make this a nice presentation tank. It is after all in the dinning room.
 

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So, Whats the most important substance in the tank ? the CO2,NO3 and PO4. Whats the meaning of NO3 and PO4 ? Where can i egt his kind of substance? I saw a bottle of liquid which gives all this nutrient inw ater. but how much is too much and how can i measure how many drops of these nutrients in my tank ? How do i calculate how much light is enough for my tank ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
kweeheng said:
So, Whats the most important substance in the tank ? the CO2,NO3 and PO4. Whats the meaning of NO3 and PO4 ? Where can i egt his kind of substance? I saw a bottle of liquid which gives all this nutrient inw ater. but how much is too much and how can i measure how many drops of these nutrients in my tank ? How do i calculate how much light is enough for my tank ?
The first post in this thread lists some of the abbreviations that are used in planted tanks and may be helpful to you: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ts/3105-common-abbreviations-used-on-apc.html

Everything kind of goes hand in hand as far as "substances" are concerned with light being the most important. Without enough light, not many things will grow regardless of how many nutrients you add to the tank. Light will determine how fast the plants (and algae) grow in your tank. The more light you have the more fertilizer you will need to add to your tank.

A carbon source is second on the list of importance to plants. Once you get about 2 watts per gallon you need to look into adding a source of carbon to your tank. Pressurized CO2 is the best but you can also go with DIY CO2 or Seachem's Excel as a carbon source.

Once you have addressed the light and carbon level, nitrates (NO3) phosphates (PO4) and potassium (K) come into play. They are all required by plants and are considered macros. While nitrates and phosphates are considered "bad" in a fish only tank, they are very important in a planted tank. Micros include iron, manganese, copper, etc and are usually provided by a "Trace" fertilizer like Seachem's Flourish, Tropica Master Grow (TMG) or Plantex CSM+B.

You can purchase most of the above from Greg Watson's website, http://www.gregwatson.com/products.asp?pg=2 in 1 pound quantities. You would be interested in Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) and monopotassium phosphate (KH2PO4) for your macros (note that both of these fertilizers will add K to your tank) and Plantex CSM+B for your micro additions.

If you live in the Cincinnati/Dayton area I have extra fertilizers I can sell in smaller quantities. The prices are the same as Greg's since we (SWOAPE) purchased them from him, but the quantities are smaller. Just let me know how much you need.

Some info about your tanks wouldbe a big help. If you are not using CO2 you may be able to get by without adding any of the above items and rely on fish waste and food to provide fertilizer for your plants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Not so quick answer:

1 - It is expensive, i.e. one pound of Laterite is about the same price as 50lbs of Soilmaster or Turface, or one package Flourite, all of which contain iron.

2 - Take a look at this link: http://home.infinet.net/teban/jamie.htm
You'll notice that both Flourite and Turface (Soilmaster is a similar product as Turface) have a decent iron content when compared to Substrate Gold (laterite). First Layer Pure Laterite does have considerably more iron than Flourite or Turface but how much is enough?

3 - The Soilmaster may not be "heavy" enough to "cap" the laterite. I didn't want to take the chance of the Soilmaster not being an adequate "cap" for the Laterite.

4 - I already dose the water column with a micro fert that contains iron so why add more?

By dosing the water column I don't feel there is a need for the addition of any macros or micros to the substrate. I don't use any substrate fertilizers in my tanks and don't see the need. I feel that plants will grow just a well by fertilizing the water column. For those who are neither willing nor able to dose the water column consistently, I would recommend the addition of laterite or better yet, Eco Complete.

I don't feel any of the "commercial" substrates curently available are adequate in a high light ( more than 2 or 2.5wpg) tank. The plants seem to grow too fast to rely on their roots to provide nourishment. You can easily test this yourself by watching the growth of a tank with high light and Eco Complete substrate by skipping a few fertilizer additions to the water column. After skipping 2-3 doses, (maybe more in a lower light tank) the plants will begin to look worse (smaller leaves and or stunting) and algae will begin to grow.

By all means feel free to give laterite a try. Just make sure the "cap" you use is heavy enough to not allow the laterite to seep up through the substrate. It can be a real mess if the laterite leaches into the water column. That heavy orange tint (like green water only orange) will take all of the enjoyment out of watching your tank and it can't be filtered out with a diatom filter like gren water can, at least until all the laterite has leached into the water column ;)
 

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Thanks for the reply. I plan on setting up my first tank using soilmaster select charcoal mainly due to your set up and another website I found that compared the growth of ADA amazonia and soilmaster. Here's the link ... http://www.geocities.com/jhoetzl/tank/substrates/substratechallenge.htm

The link's obviously not the most scientific thing, but it's interesting and the look of the soilmaster is great.

Thanks for the reply though, it's always interesting to read why other people use or don't use certain things.
 

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Jacks Aquarium here by the Dayton Mall carries the GE 9325 bulbs. May be a little late on the input for you though (Hey, when am I not late?)
 

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Hi, I am new to this Aquatic plants stuff and really need a lot of advice on how to setup, can you please repost those pictures you have in your post? the links seems broken. thanks.
 

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Pocpocpocky, welcome to APC! The original post in this thread is now 9 year old, so I doubt that you will get a response. If you have any specific questions, try posting in the New to Planted Aquariums forum.
 
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