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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys my few months old tank occasionally gets this grey string algae thingy that's long and I don't know what's causing it? I mean I did get it before when I was only using excel but now I have pressurized co2 and it still persists. I have a finnex stingray 16 inch that's on for 8-9 hours a day on a 5.5 gallon tank and it's considered low light so how am i getting algae?

Check the attachment for photo of this weird stringy algae and a picture of my 5.5 gallon.
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13223660_1789220527979499_1437063903_o.jpg
 

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High-tech, low-tech, ferts, no ferts...

Every time I've seen this algae, my nitrates were higher than they should have been.

This doesn't mean that nitrates are the ONLY problem... Maybe they're just an indicator of a larger problem?

Regardless... The solution that's worked for me has been a large water change and dialing back ALL ferts (if any) permanently. If you're not using ferts, you probably have a substantial source of decomposition in your tank (like in my 90), in which case you can either gravel-vac, or step up to regular water change routines.

Afterwards it typically goes away on its own in a couple months and typically doesn't come back as long as you maintain a lean water column.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tom Barr states that too much nutrients don't cause algae so.. I was thinking of co2 or light but CO2 is decent ppm and light is only on for 8 hrs or so doesn't really seem to be either case maybee.. I did research and there's all sorts of answers which aren't revealed yet but just hypothesis' like ammonia causing algae bloom as stuff..
 

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I am experiencing a similar problem and just came across this thread.

I did a huge water change a couple of days ago and have noticed my shrimp hiding afterwards, then added some seachem prime and they started moving around.

But more importantly I added about 10 strawberry rasboras and was thinking if my filter could keep up with the increasing bio load? So perhaps at this stage I'm left with thinking the algae is caused bio added fish, more food leading to more nutrients. Possibly after a few extra water changes it could get better and I will decrease my feeding and feet regime....

Hope I didn't jack your thread

Nate
 

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Tom Barr states that too much nutrients don't cause algae so.. I was thinking of co2 or light but CO2 is decent ppm and light is only on for 8 hrs or so doesn't really seem to be either case maybee.. I did research and there's all sorts of answers which aren't revealed yet but just hypothesis' like ammonia causing algae bloom as stuff..
Tom Barr states a lot of things...

Granted, the guy knows a lot of things, but algae not being caused by excess nutrients is not one of them.
 

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Tom Barr states a lot of things...

Granted, the guy knows a lot, but algae not being caused by excess nutrients is not one of them.
Why do you think he made the ei dosing for above and beyond what the plants need? Because, excess nutrients is not a cause. An imbalance of nutrients yes an imbalance in lights and co2 yes but not excess nutrients.
 

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Why do you think he made the ei dosing for above and beyond what the plants need? Because, excess nutrients is not a cause. An imbalance of nutrients yes an imbalance in lights and co2 yes but not excess nutrients.
As I recall, he said he ran a half dozen or so experimental tanks and tried to induce algae in them. He found that there was a higher tolerance for overdosing than there was for nutrient deficiency. From that he developed EI around the redfield-ratio (which is a mistake in itself).

Also note that EI tanks are pretty prone to algae, and the troubleshooting process that stems from the EI dogma usually leads to a chronic cycle of one algae replacing another.

Nutrient pollution causes algae. This is pretty well-known to everyone outside of this hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As I recall, he said he ran a half dozen or so experimental tanks and tried to induce algae in them. He found that there was a higher tolerance for overdosing than there was for nutrient deficiency. From that he developed EI around the redfield-ratio (which is a mistake in itself).

Also note that EI tanks are pretty prone to algae, and the troubleshooting process that stems from the EI dogma usually leads to a chronic cycle of one algae replacing another.

Nutrient pollution causes algae. This is pretty well-known to everyone outside of this hobby.
There's not a lot of info regarding planted tank information during the initial start ups of a tank so maybe that's why there's conflicting information from many sources? Like I think somehow when you first plant out a tank and the plants hasn't settled in yet(because of no roots) the information that is usually true for fully settled in plants isn't the same for the non-settled.

People usually get algae during the beginnings of a new tank so maybe overdosing nutrients and excessive light causes algae in non-matured tanks? If you think about it, a more matured tank is more efficient than a non-matured so it can withstand more?
 

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stringy algae is the easiest to get rid of with good flow and filtration. Just point some flow towards it and it'll be gone in a day. With bad flow and filtration you will get algae under any fertilisation regime. Also all tanks always have some algae.

EI tanks are pretty prone to algae. Nutrient pollution causes algae. This is pretty well-known to everyone outside of this hobby.
EI is not an algae-fix and people get algae under any fertilisation regime. The point is just not to worry about nutrients because all tanks contain organic and inorganic 'pollution' to one degree or another, especially if you are trying to grow plants, and they are impossible to accurately measure and treat.

So it's a better use of time to fix another things that are easier to control such as flow, filtration and co2.

By all means tinker with ferts if you have time but be prepared to spend an endless amount of money and time switching fertiliser brands, testing your water and wondering whether your plants are growing as well as they should be... I prefer to spend my time doing other things.

Getting everything else right can lead you to that well set up tank which does not get algae whether you dose full EI or not...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
stringy algae is the easiest to get rid of with good flow and filtration. Just point some flow towards it and it'll be gone in a day. With bad flow and filtration you will get algae under any fertilisation regime. Also all tanks always have some algae.

EI is not an algae-fix and people get algae under any fertilisation regime. The point is just not to worry about nutrients because all tanks contain organic and inorganic 'pollution' to one degree or another, especially if you are trying to grow plants, and they are impossible to accurately measure and treat.

So it's a better use of time to fix another things that are easier to control such as flow, filtration and co2.

By all means tinker with ferts if you have time but be prepared to spend an endless amount of money and time switching fertiliser brands, testing your water and wondering whether your plants are growing as well as they should be... I prefer to spend my time doing other things.

Getting everything else right can lead you to that well set up tank which does not get algae whether you dose full EI or not...
Maybe that's why I go this stringy algae out of no where! My pre-filter sponge was mucky and prevented maximum water flow from getting into the filter so it was pretty much 0 flow. I fixed it yesterday seems to be no more. Flow is rarely discussed but man is it important I guess.
 
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