Is this for a low light or high light setup?
substrate sugestion
I'd appreciate any suggestion/ideas on the following substrate I intend to use:
1/2 inch grinned gravel (1 m"m)
1 in sphagnum peat moss
5 cups of humus spread equally on the peat layer
1/2 in grinned gravel (1 m"m)
This covers the anoxic layer of the substrate.
The peat's advantages in lower substrate's ph, low redox etc and the humus's advantages of the organic material in the substrate creates a long lasting nutrient storehouse
The 2nd layer is comprised of 2.5-3 in of fine inert gravel (3 m"m) - would be the aerobic layer of the substrate.
I'd appreciate any assistance on that, remarks, suggestions etc.
Thanks.
1/2 inch grinned gravel (1 m"m)
1 in sphagnum peat moss
5 cups of humus spread equally on the peat layer
1/2 in grinned gravel (1 m"m)
This covers the anoxic layer of the substrate.
The peat's advantages in lower substrate's ph, low redox etc and the humus's advantages of the organic material in the substrate creates a long lasting nutrient storehouse
The 2nd layer is comprised of 2.5-3 in of fine inert gravel (3 m"m) - would be the aerobic layer of the substrate.
I'd appreciate any assistance on that, remarks, suggestions etc.
Thanks.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
high light, co2, the works..
Try a less messy approach then.
Some ground peat as oppposed to sphag, maybe enough to cover the bottom of the tank, 1/4" deep etc.
Cap with flourite or Onyx sand to about 3-4 inches.
Add some fresh vacuumed mulm/dirt from another tank.
With high light and CO2, why would you need the organic matter as much and also you will be uprooting the tank often since the plants are going to grow much faster when you use high light and CO2.
Trying to have 2 distinct layers is a PITA when all you need is a porous gravel. That way you get anaerobic on the inside and aerobic on the outside.
When you uproot, this does not cause any issues.
The mulm adds live bacteria and fungi, a source of organic material that labile.
The peat adds enough reduction till the bacteria takes over.
And the flourite etc provides a long terns supply of iron and porous regions for bacteria to grow and help cycle the tank well.
Why go cheap on the gravel when you are spending for the CO2/light?
Try changing a substrate should you want to upgrade vs a light.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Some ground peat as oppposed to sphag, maybe enough to cover the bottom of the tank, 1/4" deep etc.
Cap with flourite or Onyx sand to about 3-4 inches.
Add some fresh vacuumed mulm/dirt from another tank.
With high light and CO2, why would you need the organic matter as much and also you will be uprooting the tank often since the plants are going to grow much faster when you use high light and CO2.
Trying to have 2 distinct layers is a PITA when all you need is a porous gravel. That way you get anaerobic on the inside and aerobic on the outside.
When you uproot, this does not cause any issues.
The mulm adds live bacteria and fungi, a source of organic material that labile.
The peat adds enough reduction till the bacteria takes over.
And the flourite etc provides a long terns supply of iron and porous regions for bacteria to grow and help cycle the tank well.
Why go cheap on the gravel when you are spending for the CO2/light?
Try changing a substrate should you want to upgrade vs a light.
Regards,
Tom Barr
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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