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Well you are adding things to the water column.

If you are habving algae issues, it's not from the water column, it's your fault:)

Proper use of PO4, NO3 and CO2 will solve most folk's problems.
These, when you use them correctly, do not cause algae blooms.

NH4 will cause green water and other algae if you allow a lot to enter the water column.

High fish loads/over feeding can also cause this.

The substrates begins to play an increasingly more important role as you limit the water column.

If you do not limit the water column, the role of the substrate is reduced down to attachment.

The substrate can be a back up or alternatively, can be used as a primary source for nutrients.

But both methods can have algae issues and it's due to other things besides NO3/PO4 in the water column.

Namely a lack of nutrients or NH4(too much) or CO2(too little).

These are the three main causes of algae.

I've grown well over a 100 species in RFUG with no nutrients in the substrate at all and no algae and I could not induce green water no matter what I did until I added NH4Cl.

So.............

Mic, ES, Rotala etc and Gloss will look better with ample NO3 in the water column.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

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For a 50 gal with CO2, ~3w/gal.

I'd do this:
50-70% weekly water change
Amquel etc added, tap water etc

1/3 teaspoon of KNO3
1/16-1/8th teaspoon of KH2PO4.
Traces: mix with 2 tablespoons in 500mls of water, add 10 mls

Try this routine:
Add macro's on days 1,3,5,7
Traces on day 2,4,6

So you dose every other day macros and traces

I personally like the results from Flourish and TMG better than plantex alone.
You can mix them add one on one day and add the other the next etc.

This should clear up most of the issues if your CO2 is 20-30ppm at least.

The only other thing is if your tap is pretty soft, you might want to add about 1/2 teaspoon of SeaChem Equlibrium after the water change.

Give this about 2-3 weeks.
Tell me what you think.
Make certain the CO2 is up.



Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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