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You could use a canister filter but there is an added danger because of the built in overflows and evaporative loss. If the water level drops below the top of the inner overflow wall the canister's pump will run dry. A little insurance against this can be gained by lowering the drain standpipe or removing it completely turning the overflow weir into a small sump. Success with this mostly depends on how fast your water level drops and how diligently you watch it.
My main tank is an 125 gal with a 55 gal sump and I can attest to the fact that sumps offgas a lot of CO2. I swiched to Mazzei to finally get my levels up and I go through a 10lb CO2 cylinder every three weeks
uke:. One of these days I plan to do a full tear down of this tank and I'm going to cut out the Megaflow chambers and convert to canister filtration.
BTW, I'm using 4x39 watt T5HO retrofits on my 125 with good results(TEK II). Your tank is a few inches taller but my lights are ~10 inches above the water's surface. My minimum PAR readings are 40 micromoles at the substrate level.
My main tank is an 125 gal with a 55 gal sump and I can attest to the fact that sumps offgas a lot of CO2. I swiched to Mazzei to finally get my levels up and I go through a 10lb CO2 cylinder every three weeks
uke:. One of these days I plan to do a full tear down of this tank and I'm going to cut out the Megaflow chambers and convert to canister filtration.BTW, I'm using 4x39 watt T5HO retrofits on my 125 with good results(TEK II). Your tank is a few inches taller but my lights are ~10 inches above the water's surface. My minimum PAR readings are 40 micromoles at the substrate level.
