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Don't get me wrong, I love a great tank, no matter if it's high tech, low tech or no tech. I'm in it for the fish so to speak, but at the same time I am a techno geek, I live for gadgets and Rube Goldbergesque contraptions. In that vein I've been planning a planted tank now for a few months and am about to embark on the purchase and construction of one heck of toy. I'm writing this for a few reasons, one, to get my ideas down, two to bounce said ideas off others to make sure 'm not making any huge errors in my thinking and three, cause us techno-weenie-geek types like to share. I already know that for every high priced overkill item or method I choose there is a DIY or low tech or even free way to accomplish the same thing, the Techno-Geek in me ignores such trivialities.
First off I guess I should describe my ultimate goal. Discus, lush plant growth and of course a killer looking aquascape.
The Tank AGA 210 72x24x29 drilled, with the new "MegaOverflows". I choose a drilled tank as I hate all seeing all the stuff one needs, hanging in a tank. This way I can keep all that out of the tank and in the Oceanic Model 3 sump. 2 Iwaki pumps will be employed to move water, an MD70 will be the main return. My calculations show an approximate 15' head taking in account not only actual static head but also frictional losses from fittings and the like. This will provide in the order of 1300 GPH in theory. The tanks overflows are only rated at 1200 GPH, giving me some fudge factor in my pump sizing and the need for good quality valves, less I overflow the tank. The other, MD 55, will push about 800GPH through a group of items, CO2 reactor, UV and chiller. I'll construct a nifty manifold with valves to each device individually as well as a 4th leg to connect to a garden hose, facilitating water changes.
HVAC System: I keep the house at 65ish in the winter and 82ish in the summer. To that end I will need some decent heat to keep the tanks at 80-82F in the winter months. 2 300W Ebo Jager heaters controlled by a Medusa controller will keep the temp up. I'll need some cooling in the summer, that to be handled by 1/5 HP Artica Chiller, with built in controller. I also plan on using substrate heating, however that should not have much of an effect on overall tank temps.
Lighting: This will probably generate more controversy then anything I plan. AB Aquaspace light. 72" w 3 5000k 250W HQI metal halide and 4 24W actinic PC. Yeah 850W is a bit of overkill but this will allow me to suspend the unit 12-18" over an open tank, the plan is to let plants grow out and mingle with the bog plants I plan on using outside the tank. I'll get into that later. While the actinic is more attuned to reef-keeping and could potentially cause some algae problems I really like the way they make the tank look. Iridescent fish scales look incredible under this light, I hope to be able to capture some of that on with my digital camera and share.
CO2 I'm leaning towards the JBJ regulator combo getup controlled by a Milwaukee pH controller. The Aqua medic reactor is on my list and I have a call into a dude that builds incredible quality skimmers, Kalk reactors and all that acrylic stuff for reef folks. 10lb tank to be sourced locally, the local brew shop has them, 50 bucks the first time for a new used tank and then you just swap a filled one for the princely sum of 6 bucks.
UV: When you combine the alleged propensity of actinic lights facilitating algae with Discus and my admittedly heavy handed stocking plans, UV looks like a good prophylactic. Aqua Ultraviolet 15W w/wiper. I think the wiper deal is pretty nifty and actually useful to.
Substrate: I figure about 300lb of substrate will yield a 3" depth. Bottom 3rd to be inert sand, middle 3rd a mix of SeaChem's Florite and Florite Red, top 3rd mainly Eco-Complete with some SeaChem onyx sand. As stated earlier substrate heating will be used. I'm just not sure if I want the Tunze 24v system of the FishVet 120v one. They both suit my needs in their longest most powerful runs, I just worry about a 120v system running through the tank.
Misc: Grounding probe. I hate getting shocked by tanks, been there, done that, soiled the T shirt. GFI protected power strips mounted high in the stand, plugged into 2 different GFI fused 20A circuits. AGA pine stand, refinished to smooth rough edges with semi gloss black exterior, polyurethane, interior to be painted white, and coated with polyurethane. Mount 2 24" under counter florescent fixtures so I can see when working in the sump. Timers for the lights.
Thoughts, comments, glaring errors?
Thanks
gnatster
First off I guess I should describe my ultimate goal. Discus, lush plant growth and of course a killer looking aquascape.
The Tank AGA 210 72x24x29 drilled, with the new "MegaOverflows". I choose a drilled tank as I hate all seeing all the stuff one needs, hanging in a tank. This way I can keep all that out of the tank and in the Oceanic Model 3 sump. 2 Iwaki pumps will be employed to move water, an MD70 will be the main return. My calculations show an approximate 15' head taking in account not only actual static head but also frictional losses from fittings and the like. This will provide in the order of 1300 GPH in theory. The tanks overflows are only rated at 1200 GPH, giving me some fudge factor in my pump sizing and the need for good quality valves, less I overflow the tank. The other, MD 55, will push about 800GPH through a group of items, CO2 reactor, UV and chiller. I'll construct a nifty manifold with valves to each device individually as well as a 4th leg to connect to a garden hose, facilitating water changes.
HVAC System: I keep the house at 65ish in the winter and 82ish in the summer. To that end I will need some decent heat to keep the tanks at 80-82F in the winter months. 2 300W Ebo Jager heaters controlled by a Medusa controller will keep the temp up. I'll need some cooling in the summer, that to be handled by 1/5 HP Artica Chiller, with built in controller. I also plan on using substrate heating, however that should not have much of an effect on overall tank temps.
Lighting: This will probably generate more controversy then anything I plan. AB Aquaspace light. 72" w 3 5000k 250W HQI metal halide and 4 24W actinic PC. Yeah 850W is a bit of overkill but this will allow me to suspend the unit 12-18" over an open tank, the plan is to let plants grow out and mingle with the bog plants I plan on using outside the tank. I'll get into that later. While the actinic is more attuned to reef-keeping and could potentially cause some algae problems I really like the way they make the tank look. Iridescent fish scales look incredible under this light, I hope to be able to capture some of that on with my digital camera and share.
CO2 I'm leaning towards the JBJ regulator combo getup controlled by a Milwaukee pH controller. The Aqua medic reactor is on my list and I have a call into a dude that builds incredible quality skimmers, Kalk reactors and all that acrylic stuff for reef folks. 10lb tank to be sourced locally, the local brew shop has them, 50 bucks the first time for a new used tank and then you just swap a filled one for the princely sum of 6 bucks.
UV: When you combine the alleged propensity of actinic lights facilitating algae with Discus and my admittedly heavy handed stocking plans, UV looks like a good prophylactic. Aqua Ultraviolet 15W w/wiper. I think the wiper deal is pretty nifty and actually useful to.
Substrate: I figure about 300lb of substrate will yield a 3" depth. Bottom 3rd to be inert sand, middle 3rd a mix of SeaChem's Florite and Florite Red, top 3rd mainly Eco-Complete with some SeaChem onyx sand. As stated earlier substrate heating will be used. I'm just not sure if I want the Tunze 24v system of the FishVet 120v one. They both suit my needs in their longest most powerful runs, I just worry about a 120v system running through the tank.
Misc: Grounding probe. I hate getting shocked by tanks, been there, done that, soiled the T shirt. GFI protected power strips mounted high in the stand, plugged into 2 different GFI fused 20A circuits. AGA pine stand, refinished to smooth rough edges with semi gloss black exterior, polyurethane, interior to be painted white, and coated with polyurethane. Mount 2 24" under counter florescent fixtures so I can see when working in the sump. Timers for the lights.
Thoughts, comments, glaring errors?
Thanks
gnatster