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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've only had a planted tank for about a month now and i am interested in getting better plant growth. I currently have a 10g tank with 46W of CF bulbs over it. I am using DIY Co2 with a haggen ladder.

So if i wanted pressurized CO2, the things i would have to buy would be : A cylinder(tank), a regulator, and a needle valve ?

Is there anything else that i would need? If i just bought any of those things on eBay seperately will they fit together?
 

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CO2 tubing, bubble counter, make sure regulator has a solenoid!

Umm....you are probably stunting your plants by having so much light on them!!! I would cut down on the amount of light, or if you do get pressurized CO2, you will have to run it at least 2 bubbles per second. I hope and pray that you fertilize that tank fairly heavily!! That is just a motherload of light for a tank that small! How do your plants look?

Also, you will need a diffusor of some sort unless you are planning on hooking up the CO2 system directly to your canister filter.
 

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a bubble counter, diffuser/reactor (if you dont use the ladder), drop checker, check valve (preferably metal), perma-seal, co2 tubing, solenoid

the jbj has a built in bubble counter, check valve and solenoid. thats the one i use.
there are lots of regulators to choose from.
you can hear goods/bads depending on who you ask.
expect to spend out $200 total (give or take depending on the brand you buy)
 

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So if i wanted pressurized CO2, the things i would have to buy would be : A cylinder(tank), a regulator, and a needle valve ?
That would be the cheapest way to go, and yes, you could put it together, though you would need to buy the fitting to attach the needle valve to the regulator. As mentioned, a check valve is important to avoid accidental tank drain outs. Then there's the extras, which some folks would argue are also necessities. :)
1. CO2 tubing - yes, regular air line tubing will cause CO2 loss, but if money's an object, this will save you a couple of bucks.
2. Bubble counter - is nice to have to make it easy to adjust flow rate via a visible, although relative, measurement. I have a 10 gal with pressurized which I inject into the intake of the AC HOB filter which acts as my reactor. My bubble counting occurs by turning off the filter, so there's no suction, and counting the bubbles as they rise up the filter's intake tube.
3. Drop checker - the most accurate way we currently have to measure CO2. These have become widely used in the last couple of years, but before that, most of us used ph/kh relations, knowing there were inherent errors there and always watching the inhabitants for signs of stress.
4. Solenoid - you can run CO2 24/7, use slightly lower levels or use an air stone at night. If you have hard water, you will probably find you need to run 24/7 to maintain adequate levels. Again, you need to know your water's chemistry and always keep an eye on the fish.
5. Reactor - you can inject into the filter as mentioned.

As Donald said, that's a lot of light, even for a 10, so you will need to be sure your dosing is good.
 

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I've only had a planted tank for about a month now and i am interested in getting better plant growth. I currently have a 10g tank with 46W of CF bulbs over it. I am using DIY Co2 with a haggen ladder.
Ask yourself what it is you want to achieve. You claim better plant growth - well CO2 from a DIY bottle is just as good as CO2 from a tank. Trust me, your plant's won't know the difference. ;)

Is it convenience you are after? For a 10g tank, DIY can do just nicely (emphasis on can here). However, if you were like me and got tired of mixing fresh batches of yeast and sugar then pressurised is the way to go. You also get consistency in amount of CO2 delivered. This is the reason why I switched.

Regardless of what you buy, safe yourself some aggravation and get a $15.00 Red Sea drop checker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Yep, I am dosing Ferts. but not that heavily. I am doing PPS Pro with stuff i bought from Rex and added epsom salt into the solution. I didn't realize i had too much light... cause i read somewhere that with smaller tanks.. the wpg rule doesn't hold true and you needed a little more? I've been setting the timer for 12 hours a day too.. maybe i should cut it back? The plants look ok. Some of the ends of the Vals i have melted away, but that happened before i got the ferts. Now that i am fertilizing, they look a lot greener and no other leave are melting. The dwarf Riccia, rotatla and the HM i have are growing too, but slowly. They were covered in brown algea, but 2 days ago i got a pair of Amano shrimp and a otto. The Amano shrimp are awsome. They clean NONSTOP and are pretty cool to watch.
 
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