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Discussion Starter #1
I love to see if I can get some definitive answers to maybe these unanswerable question.

Some fish in my 29 gallon heavily planted tank have shown symptoms of Lymphocystis, apparently can be self limiting, but caused by a virus in the water column. This tank has been up and running for a long, long time. Heavily planted, as I said. So considering a UV sterilizer, maybe one I could move to other tanks (including a 20 gallon and the 10 gallon quarantine tank on occasion).

So questions:
I dose with a variety of ferts (all Seachem. I'm too lazy to do my own micro and macro mixes.

I've read much on this, and it seems the UV breaks the chelated iron down, something I'd like to avoid. Some folks use the UV and dose iron on a specific schedule. Others use EDTA chelated iron fertilizer (which Seachem is not. is Kent?) as the bond is "harder to break", and I've read it is more effective below pH 7 (is this last just fantasy?). I'd love to get rec's on best practices here.

If i do finally pull the trigger on the sterilizer, I think I'd go with something that I can move, as I said, on its own loop, likely, internal pump to inline sterilizer and return. The in tank units look too big to be versatile, and I'm not sure I have room for a hob version (like the Aqua Advantage HOB). Also, I'd like to avoid surface agitation of any kind, sin i am infusing CO2, unless I only run the sterilizer at night. In that case, HOB might be an option.
 

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Okay to maybe complicate matters, just read this on the Barr Report forum with regards to chelated iron ferts breaking down, "Because of this, I use a gluconated iron, such as Flourish Iron." Well, that is what I use. Still there seems to be a best practice in terms of UV on/off time and Iron dosing, etc.
 

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I don't think that viral infection is curable. Best to just cull the affected and move the healthy fish out for quarantine. Do several vacuums and water changes to the tank.
 
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