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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Everyone test ya water before a water change they, Tha Man, who ever controls the public water supply has changed/ raised the PH. I didnt read any of these links but tested my water an it was at 7.0 now its at 8.8 so in conclusion im thinkin of getting out the hobby. Everything about this hobby i had control over even if i had a bit of hassle now its way too much! I just wanted to give a heads up to anyone who lives in tha boston area if u know someone who does please pass this on if their not aware. Tanks for tha read!

https://www.cambridgema.gov/Water/wateroperationsdivision/watertreatment.aspx
http://www.mwra.com/04water/html/qual4concerns.htm
 

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I have to admit that I don't like the aquarium you linked to. The shape of rocks, the sand and then plastic plants and this combination of fish, it all doesn't seem to belong together. Personally I would rather have no plants at all than plastic plants - even though some plants can be kept with african cichlids as well.

I have nothing against "odd combinations" = community aquaria, but the behaviour of the fish should be compatible. Many people have some pleco with cichlids and I have seen pictures online of an aquarium which I really like with yellow Labidochromis, odessa barbs and a backdrop of java fern. Just mono's and cichlids don't fit to my feeling. Mono's are too large to successfully evade the cichlids and at the same time too unaccustomed to this kind of agression. They are also very dark coloured, which could mean that they are just put in, or under a lot of stress (either from water chemistry or from agression of the cichlids). In the next picture they are gone ... But then a rainbow fish appears, which is imo again a less fortunate choise. That's a schooling fish of which you should have many, best of the same species but can also be of related species. Just one or maybe a few together with those agressive cichlids, I could imagine that another fish will be missing in later pictures ...

For that odd aquarium with labs and barbs you can look at this forum topic. It is in Dutch language, but the pictures are international :)

http://www.aquaforum.nl/ubb/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1271516&page=1
 

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Where in Boston are you?
I'm in Framingham and the water is very soft and pH is 7 or less. If you let it sit (age) the pH will drop.
We are on the MWRA water system that goes all the way into Boston.
 

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My pH out of the tap is 8.8 in small town Texas. I just had to come to the terms if I wanted to do a whole lot, I have to use RO. It's tricky at first and it sucks buying water, but in the end it's worth it.
 

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I called the MWRA today and spoke to the point person on treatment. They are adding sodium carbonate (no bicarbonate) and then CO2 to help bring the pH down. The pH out of the tap is up around 8 which is very high for the Quabbin water source. It used to be around 7 or a bit lower. The GH is still around 1 +/- but the KH has gone from 1 +/- to 3 - 4KH. They also add chloramine as a disinfectant.

I suggest you use Seachem Prime and Acid Buffer to adjust your water. Or filter it thru peat moss.
 

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I called the MWRA today and spoke to the point person on treatment. They are adding sodium carbonate (no bicarbonate) and then CO2 to help bring the pH down. The pH out of the tap is up around 8 which is very high for the Quabbin water source. It used to be around 7 or a bit lower. The GH is still around 1 +/- but the KH has gone from 1 +/- to 3 - 4KH. They also add chloramine as a disinfectant.

I suggest you use Seachem Prime and Acid Buffer to adjust your water. Or filter it thru peat moss.
When did this change occur?
 

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For a couple years now.
 

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My pH test kit tops out at 7.6 and its pegged. I'm guessing its 8 or higher. I think the guy I spoke with was going to look into it. I can't see adding so much carbonate that they then have to add CO2 to reverse the carbonate. The only reason is to get the alkalinity higher to inhibit corrosion. The water will not drop if you let it sit/age like you used to be able to. You must add acid buffer. API pH Down will not work as well as Seachem acid buffer. The API is sulfur based.

Using peat as a filter media will remove the carbonate. It may also tint the water with tannins.
 

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My low range does the same but my high range has it around 7.6, i inject co2 and it takes a little more to get the dc where I want it..
 

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There are several treatment stations on the system. The one feeding mine could be out of adjustment. I have my CO2 diffuser running at 100% when in the past I could cut it back to about 80%
 
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