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I just got my eheim classic 2213 and the instructions are a little confusining. Am i suppose to fill the canister with water before i plug it in? Do the gray valve things have to point a certain way? And what does it mean when it tells me to prime the filter? I am suppose to suck on the hose?
 

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First I wouldn't plug it in before it fills with water. I did that to some old filters and its not good for the impeller. You should first prime the filter, which means to fill it with water from the tank or if necessary another source. My ehiem eccos have a handle that allow me to prime the filter without having to suck on the tubing or anything. I don't know about the classic, so I would check the user manual or maybe someone with a classic can answer this question.
 

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I think the grey valves you're talking about are the quick disconnects. It doesn't matter which way you install them, but you do need to have the switch handle open so the water can flow through (the switch handles parallel to the tubing rather than perpendicular). The first time I prime an Eheim classic I have to suck on the tubing to get the water to start flowing into the canister. From then on using the quick disconnects keeps it from losing the prime.

I've found it works best to stretch out the hoses when I first reconnect in order to avoid any loops that would keep the water from flowing easily and to keep air bubbles from getting trapped. Once the canister is up and running again I push it back into it's normal place.
 

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The top one goes on the end of the output tube (hard plastic with holes down on side) cut a small piece of the flexable tubing and place it between the output tube (hard plastic with holes down on side) and the hard plastic elbow tube, this will help you get the output tube into the tank at a horizontal level. The bottom one goes on the flexable output tube to help hang it over the tank top. I hope that I'm not confusing you :-?
 

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If you can find the upgraded input and output tubes for it they do make it easier. They have caps on the top to add water for that first prime and save sucking on the tubes. These upgraded ones are larger and work very well. After that first prime using the included shut offs will do the trick from then on. I installed my cutoffs just above the cannister so the tubes hold more water in them for priming each time. The first time was hard for me too, but since it is a breeze. They also make a little gadget you can use on the ones included, but because I bought the upgraded inputs and outputs didn't try it. Oh another thing is that the upgraded are a bit high.
Seems like they cost about $45.00 extra for both. You could just by the one for the spraybar side and that would help. I gave up also with those two green thingies you showed. :)
 

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I just received the Eheim 2213 I purchased and want to install it in the bottom of a cabinet that a 55 gallon tank will sit on. I built the cabinet myself and it has enough room ( and then some) to house the Eheim 2213. I drilled three holes in the rear of the cabinet for the electrical cord, input & output tubing to exit. While the cabinet will hide the Ehiem and other aquarium paraphernalia, I am concerned about how hard it will be to service the Eheim. Where should I locate the quick disconnects for easy maintenance?
 

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I just received the Eheim 2213 I purchased and want to install it in the bottom of a cabinet that a 55 gallon tank will sit on. I built the cabinet myself and it has enough room ( and then some) to house the Eheim 2213. I drilled three holes in the rear of the cabinet for the electrical cord, input & output tubing to exit. While the cabinet will hide the Ehiem and other aquarium paraphernalia, I am concerned about how hard it will be to service the Eheim. Where should I locate the quick disconnects for easy maintenance?
Usually you want them as close to the output and input as you can get them. Leave a good 3" between the output/input and the disconnect valves.
 

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I have both of my quick connects just above the output, and I mounted them in opposite directions so I can't connect them backwards.

Chop a couple of inches of tubing off of one end for the spraybar hookup, then hook up the inlet & spraybar assembly to the open ends of the tube. With the tubing hanging down near the canister, you shoulf be able to figure out where to cut it so that you have about the same amount of slack in both sides. This will allow you to scoot it out of (or at least most of the way) the cabinet before disconnecting the tubing. For initial use, plumb everything, then disconnect the quick connect of the output side. Open all valves, give one good suck on the pump's outlet half of the open quick connect and the canister will fill. Close that valve before water comes out, reconnect the fittings and reopen the valve. The canister will fill and you shouldn't ever have to suck on any of the hoses again, unless you forget to close the valves & shut off the pump before a water change.
 
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