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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to pick up 2 250W heaters for a discus tank, one in the overflow and one on the opposite corner of the tank. I've liked and had good experience with Stealth heaters, and like that they are black and easy to hide, have a non-breakable surface and shut off automatically when out of water and turn on automatically when back in water. I think the Ebo Jagers might generate more heat more quickly, but my only objection is that they are glass and if out of water due to a water change, I'm afraid they could break easily. Any thoughts?
 

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10 years ago I had a 50 gallon tank with a 10" oscar. He made a hobby of running in to the heater and breaking it, after the 5th one I went looking for some thing unbreakable. The sales clerk told me that there was no way the ebo jagers could be broken. To prove this he smacked the heater on the counter as hard as he could and it did not break. That was it, I was convince and that is the only heater I have ever run since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would think the ones 10 years ago were probably made with higher quality, if older technology. The new Ebo Jagers are made of glass that's only a few mm thick. I'm 100% sure you could break one on the edge of a table without a lot of force. Also, have you ever tried taking your Ebo Jager out of the water and into the air when it's heating? If it's glass, I'm afraid there's a high probably it would break.

Have your Ebo Jagers been dependable and temp accurate?

Has anyone been using the new black Ebo Jagers for over a year?
 

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I have also had really good experience with the Stealth heaters. I have 2 250w as well. Just didn't want to take the chance of the glass breaking for any reason - possibly frying my fish.
 

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After 2 Ebos crapping out on me, I got a Stealth. Love it. Major plus: during w/c's there is no need to unplug it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Based on feedback here and from others, going to stick with the Stealth. Only considered the Ebo Jagers because a reef LFS guy kept pushing them, saying he thought Stealth heaters couldn't produce the heat needed because they wouldn't burn him when he touched them. What a great criteria (NOT!). The Stealth slow even heating + a sensor connected to an off switch is probably what allows them to survive water changes without being shut off.
 

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Can't tell you how many times I used to unplug the heater & then forget to plug it back in! The Stealth is also less visible. Only one thing- it doesn't have a little light to tell you when it's on or off. But don't really need it.
 

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For a 250g discus setup, I'd strongly recommend using something that wouldn't be visible like an in-line Hydor. They're crazy-reliable too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's for a 125g setup, and since one of the heaters will be hidden in the overflow box, which is a high flow area, only one will be inside the display area itself, but easily hidden along bottom or corner by plants or driftwood. I was thinking of going with a Hydor in-line, but then I read and heard a lot of comments about poor reliability and clicking on/off. I know people who use the Hydors, but then I've heard of too many people reporting problems with them. In my case, they're a lot of extra expense when neither of my heaters will be visible.
 

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Oops, I had just updated my thread about the Stealth's before I saw this one.

Apparently I got a bad run on them, but the customer service was right there to take care of the problem, so I really don't think you could go wrong with them.
 
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