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Fluval 105 vs. Eheim Classic 2213

5.6K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Left Coast DJ  
#1 ·
I just set-up a 10 gallon with pressurized CO2. It's primarily for fry, shrimp, and for me to experiment with stuff. Right now I have an AquaClear Mini/20 on it. But the return obviously is causing a lot of surface agitation - possibly leading to degassing. So I'm considering getting a cannister with a low flow. I looked at the Zoo Med 501. But it's too small. So I've narrowed the choices down to the Fluval 105 & Eheim 2213. Any opinions on either or another for a 10 gallon tank?


DJ
 
#2 ·
...Right now I have an AquaClear Mini/20 on it. But the return obviously is causing a lot of surface agitation - possibly leading to degassing...

DJ
Here's two mods for your AC that might help with turbulance.

1) You can cut a piece of bluebonded filter material or window air conditioner filter material and place it on the exit trough. Cut it long enough so that one end is held by the sponge(s) and the other end goes into the water. Cut it as wide as the exit trough or slightly wider.

2) There is a little nub where the intake tube touches a grey piece of plastic. This keeps the intake from going all the way to the right. You can trim this little nub off with a Dremel tool or a drill with a sander bit. It will slow the flow down more when you push it all the way to the right.
 
#3 ·
From what I read on the net and from what people are telling me is that Eheim is the way to go. People refer to it as the “Cadillac of canister filters.” Great quality and it will last for a long time. I just recently purchased an Eheim 2215 for my 55g tank and it’s great, my water has never been cleaner. Also, you won’t even hear the Eheim running unless your ear is near the filter. It’s extremely quite. The Eheim 2213 may cost a little more but it is rated for up to 65 gallons. When the Fluval 105 is rated for up to 25 gallons. So.. if you were to get a bigger tank you are still able to use the Eheim 2213. I have read/heard mix reviews for Fluval canister filters. Most of the reviews are more towards the negative side.

But in my opinion, I would do what Left C recommends. To me buying a canister filter for a 10gallon tank is not worth it.

But remember I never owned a Fluval canister filter. Therefore what I know about it is just through reading and from word of mouth.Take my opinion for what it’s worth. I recommend what Left C suggest but if you still what to buy a canister filter Eheim is the way to go!!

Well now you know what I think ….. Good luck with your decision!!


Dany
 
#4 ·
More than reducing the turbulance caused by the AquaClear, what I want to reduce is the amount of breaking the AC does on the surface (agitation). Over the course of the week, as the water level drops a bit due to evaporation, the AC causes a lot of surface agitation. So I want to keep the surface calm during daytime. At night I run a sponge filter to help re-oxygenate the tank.

Left C - the baffle you refer to, I think, helps reduce the current inside the tank. But I'm not sure if it'll help eliminate the surface agitation.
 
#5 ·
More than reducing the turbulance caused by the AquaClear, what I want to reduce is the amount of breaking the AC does on the surface (agitation). Over the course of the week, as the water level drops a bit due to evaporation, the AC causes a lot of surface agitation. So I want to keep the surface calm during daytime. At night I run a sponge filter to help re-oxygenate the tank.
The tricks that I mentioned work well. The filter material placed on the spillway keeps the surface really calm. Phil Edwards showed me this trick. If you cut the filter material long enough; it will help with agitation due to evaporation. You can always add water to your tank as needed to keep it full. I usually have my tanks filled to the place where the glass cover fits. I like open top tanks though. The filter material I have used is made by Purolator. I get two sheets for $2 at the local hardware store.
Purolator
Washable Room Air Conditioner Pad
15" x 24" x 1/4"
CYS - 2 Pack
Part # 191773
UPC 049403020833
It's a dark grey color

The blue bonded filter material is a little thicker and it cuts down on turbulance more. Coralife Pure Flo Filter Pad (18"X24") at Big Al's Online

Left C - the baffle you refer to, I think, helps reduce the current inside the tank. But I'm not sure if it'll help eliminate the surface agitation.
It does reduce the current and when used in tandum with the filter material on the spillway gives you a fairly calm surface.

Here's the instructions for the Hagen AC. http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/Aquaclear_English.pdf

Go to page 6 of 9 and look at diagram 4 and check out the little "magnified" view. It shows how the intake tube fits on the grey piece of plastic but it doesn't show the little nub that I mentioned that can be ground off.

Diagram 6 on page 7 of 9 shows how you adjust the flow.

These mods only cost a few pennies to do but if you want the Eheim 2213, go for it.
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
Left C - I'll try to build one of your systems in one of the AC50s I'm running.

Trena - Filstars are my personal favorites as well. However, even an XP1 with the flow turned down very low is still too strong for a 10 gallon tank. In fact, I have an XP1 on a 20 Long, and I think it's too strong. I'm not crazy about the silly new 1-piece spray bar though. I wish we can still buy the modular Filstar spray bar. But out of curiosity, what's your beef with the Eheim 2213?

DJ
 
#9 ·
I'm sorry but the 2113 was the first external filter i've ever owned which I bought 2nd hand without instructions. Managed to figure it out easy enough.... To prime suck on the outflow pipe with you mouth, with the inlet pipe submerged until you see water coming up the outlet pipe... blow and suck a few times to get rid of any trapped air, then switch the filter on without letting go of the outlet pipe or the water will syphon back.